QWK32

link to thread in SAU Forsale section. <---Link--->

Item: OS Giken Adjustable Cam Gear. Price: $150 - postage extra Condition: Used but in excellent condition, fitted to the engine on my old 32 for only 3 months. Reason for Sale: Not using it on the Stagea so selling it. Location: Brisbane, Cannon Hill. Item: Stock RB25DET NEO Air Flow Meter, off a S2 Stagea. Pink Label AFM - 22680 31U05 A36-608 E61. I also have the electrical plug, if you need it let me know. Price: $80 - postage extra Condition: Used, still in good condition working without an issue. Reason for Sale: Upgraded the stagea to a Z32 AFM. Location: Brisbane, Cannon Hill. reply here or pm me for more info or if interested.

1: the engine oil wouldn't be the cause. 2: neither would the oil filter. 3: gearbox oil could be, do you know what the put in it. too thick and the gears may struggle to push the oil away when they mesh. when it start shuddering does the engine sound like its struggling, slightly stalling. does the engine tone cut in and out? if the engine sounds fine and runs a treat even when the car is shuddering it would definitely be a g/box, 4WD, or diff problem.

yep, looks like you do have a LSD here it is: yep, thats the one. sometimes the options are unreadable as they are all in japanese. if you press the white/blue MC button you can sometimes work it out. this button shows the model code breakdown for the entire model range.

here you go, looks like you have some good options. ps, there is a thread for vin search's in fast Link to Fast Thread

the ecu boost sensor, the one above the engine at the back, only tells the ecu when you hit a certain boost level, its around 1bar, 14psi. and when its met, the ecu cuts the engine i.e. Boost Cut. if the sensors vacuum line is not hooked up it wont cause an issue. i've had to remove the vac line from mine with the turbo upgrade as i kept hitting boost cut. leave the electrical plug plugged in so as not to throw any errors on the ecu.

That's no good Josh, I'm sure I used a R34 pinout when I pit it on my stagea without a problem. I still have all the diagrams I used at home some where, I'll check for you when I get home later today, I'm still in bundy. Otherwise pop round and we can compare my wiring to yours.

Yeah I thought I was pritty lucky to get away with only the one. I did an exhaust manifold gasket on the old R32, and to add to the 3 studs that were already broken off I snapped 3 more off while undoing them. Drilling them out of the head was a real pain. I did notice that while undoing the studs on the manifold/head of the stagea, that the nuts were a little loose on cylinder 1. Which was the source of the kettle boiling noise while on boost lol.

i have one for the pod. just gotta put it back on

its all in and done with the exception of a few small details. overall took me 3 days from start to finish, and that was only putting in like 4-5 hours a day into it. the turbo fits nicely on the stock manifold with a 16mm spacer. exhaust took about 1 hour to finish off and then we made up a custom stainless inlet pipe so i could run the bov return line and oil breather line to it. bits i will be working on just to finish it off, make up some stainless intercooler pipes as the stock ones aren't really suited, even though we made them work. a bit of heat sheilding around the turbo area, just for some piece of mind that nothing will melt. and some more silicone joiners in the right sizes. also i need to get a different bov as the stock one it blowing open under full boost, 1bar. at the moment i've had blocked the stocker off until i can get a good aftermarket plumb back. i had to pull some timing out and adjust the fuel maps so i could get a safe tune to drive on, i only need it like this till i get the tune finished on the dyno, which hopefully will be in a few weeks. how does it go? well, it really hauls ass now. if your a fan of full boost at 2000rpm this turbo isn't for you. it starts building a noticable boost level around 3000rpm and around 3800rpm its under full scream. boost comes on hard and fast and is held through gear changes. just putting around town just cruising i dont really see much more than a couple of psi and so far i dont really miss not have full boost down low. put your foot down while doing 60kph, it drops back to 2nd and takes off, before you know it your doing 120kph. if i'm not paying attention when in tiptronic mode rev limit creeps up real fast when on full boost. here's some pics of the engine bay. just need to finish a couple more things throughout the next couple of weeks. and one of the turbo sitting snugly on the stock manifold.

the turbo upgrade has started today. only started working on it this afternoon but have managed to remove the entire stock turbo setup. i have to shoot into my brothers work in the morning to remove a broken stud on the manifold, where the turbo bolts on, of coarse there had to be atleast one troublesome stud just from a test fit up i'm going to be using a 16mm spacer plate and gaskets to space the GT35 off the stock turbo enough to clear the comp cover hitting the manifold. should have some pics up of the install tomorrow when i hopefully have it all fitted up ready to get the exhaust mods done the following day.

i paid $170 for a brand new walbro GSS342. 500hp rated.

Completey normal for a RB25, mine also does it and so I know a few other people with the same thing. The VVT changeover is at about 5000rpm so we're probably experiencing the increase in torque from the high rpm lobe. At first I thought it could be a tuning issue with the stock ecu running too rich, but I've pulled my mixtures back to an acceptable afr and still feel the torque increase around 5500-6000rpm. I think you'll find if you look at some dyno sheets of RB25's running stock VVT cams and control points you would see this flat spot on the torque curve.

Scott, he means O2 sensor, the one on the exhaust, not air flow meter. Tomas, my O2 sensor packed up on me at about 68000km but i didn't have any issues with shuddering or jerking. i was just using a bit more fuel than before and the engine check light flashed up a few times.

the standard firing order is 1 5 3 6 2 4, fired sequentially. there will be a haltech, or a vipec or what ever you pick that will support sequential fire and inject. even EMS has a sequential ecu that supports 6 cylinder engines. if you go for the 4 output setup you will need to setup a wasted spark ignition, like the 3/2 falcon commodore coil packs. and as TiTAN has mentioned, batch fire your injectors.

thanks for that Darrin. i was just looking at a turbo flange plate i have here and the thread in it is M10 x 1.5.

cheers mate, very helpful. yeah they are for the spacer plate and larger turbo so i need to get the longer ones. M12 x 1.5 and M12 x 1.25 sounds like it could be it, they are both standard fine threads.

Does anyone know what the stud size and pitch for the stock C34 RB25 manifold, where the turbo bolts onto is? i need to track some down this week but don't really have the time to take one off and id it.

pull the steel pipe off and get a cap welded on. thats if you can afford to have the car off the road while you do it. or get a piece of silicone joiner or similar, put it on the return pipe and use a steel bung to block off the other end of the joiner. this way you can easily put a plumb back bov back on if you want to. i think you'll struggle to find another bit like whats already on there, i know you get one in a HKS SSQV kit, maybe other manufacturers supply something similar, post up in the Wanted to Buy section and see if anyone has one lying around they aren't using.

at idle the O2 sensor signal is a voltage sinewave. it will bounce back and forth between 0v and 1v, well probably more like 0.1v to 0.9v. if your getting constant unchanging voltage from the O2 sensor at idle the sensor is faulty.

Dave, installing a Z32 pretty much renders you car undriveable until you get a tune. Your running Nistune as well aren't you? its relatively easy to setup but from my experience from just doing this, its not as easy as changing the VQ map to suit the Z32. For me the fuel mixtures where off and needed to be adjusted.

You can get a brand new Z32 for around $300. Then either shell out for a Tomei Z32 plug like I did, or use a VL AFM plug, I read they are the same. There is no real gain to be had unless your chasing anything above 220kw. And then it's more of a must to chase the bigger power figure. The Z32 has more resolution than the stock AFM. I'm using Nistune to tune for the Z32, but you can use a Safc.

After i installed a Z32 into my S2 Stagea i decided to make up this little diagram for anyone else looking at the upgrade. This may also be the same as the S1 as i'm sure the AFM's are basically the same pink label MAF. The S2 wiring was almost identical to the S2 R33 wiring with the exception of cable colour. Also keep in mind you cant install a Z32 and run the engine without a tune.

Not yet Chris. I'm installing the new turbo in a weeks time, so it will go on the rollers after that. Just been doing street tuning to get all the AFR's to an acceptable level, and i can tell you just by doing that the car performs a hell of a lot better, has alot more torque, and i even noticed that the gear changes get alot smoother and faster with the better AFR's.

Z32 MAF is in. I think its probably one of the easiest aftermarket mods to install that has a real benefit when chasing power. Its the same physical size and share the same airbox/pod mounting holes as the stock AFM. plug is different but only requires you to cut of the standard plug and solder on a new one. 3 soldered connections to be made on the S2 stagea loom. Heatshrink/seal it up and its good to go. Setting it up in nistune is just like the injectors, select to operation of change MAF, select Z32 from the list and it adjust the maps for you. i cant say if that is all you have to do on stock injectors, but i have 600cc's installed and Nistune's adjustment were still on the lean side. 17:1 afr on first start Played with the values and got it down to a good 14.3:1 ratio on idle, open loop. also my fuel maps which i had got down to a nice 12:1 ratio across the map on load are back up into the 10's high in the rpm/load points, i'll pull them back over the next couple of days