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STATUS

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Posts posted by STATUS

  1. Nah, that has never happened.....

    if im on low gear and on constant speed, it stalls and can feel it in the cabin....if im on higher gear and cruising on the freeway from 80 - 100kph, it starts and when I accelerates a bit more, it stops and starts again if i take a bit of the load off my foot again...

    It is very annoying...

    Maybe I will get it de-carb next time and see how it goes....

    I was thinking about the coilpacks, but cant be as it only does that on a constant speed...when Im at the lights, its rpm's are fine, no drops in rpm, taking off, is fine too...

    dont ever de carb nissan motor, decarb iac but not motor.

  2. Ok, so I got round to doing another leak test on my car using compressed air, first time I have done it since the last mods. I found three very big ones; one was a split in the silicon joiner on my turbo/intake caused by the hose clamp, one was the hose going to my fuel pressure regulator, and one was some very shit welding of the IAT sensor done by a certain workshop here which shall remain unnamed. These are all now fixed.

    Before I found these three, I couldn't even pump 2psi into the thing, it was bleeding off air too quickly. It now takes 10+psi, which is apparently the limit of the plug I made for the intake pipe, the end cap explodes out of the rubber joiner with quite a bang :laugh:. I might see if I can fix this somehow, either a better clamp or just epoxy the end cap to the joiner, try to get the system to hold 25+psi. Anyway, the intake now holds pressure quite solidly, and given the rate of how quickly it would bleed off pressure before, I have no doubt this would have affected the performance.

    I will still degree the camshafts this week to cross that off the list as well, then I guess it's back on the dyno to see if there are any changes!

    feel free to bang through your map and i will have a look over it if your still chasing neddies.

    • Like 1
  3. No need for name calling...

    So we could assume the coils have improved, as there are plenty of people making 250+ with yellow jackets.

    At the end of the day,i don't care. the coils were on the car when I bought it, and I will be going to ls coils as they are clearly heaps better. But I seriously doubt I would make more power as there is no issue currently.

    you would be surprised how much they pick up with a larger gap and decent coils....

  4. yeah should add all shifts were done 1 neutral 2nd then neutral then 3rd as shifter would not allow single action changes. so prob another few mph as each better change seemed to net a few more mph and better time. An honest 128mph run should be achievable on this little turbo.

    tao i checked to log too at the end and all runs were closer to 20psi not 23 too. Last run was @ 18psi.

  5. Decent mph to HP converter the guys linked me too today at the drags. They were using it on their 8 and 9 sec cars

    http://www.wallaceracing.com/et-hp-mph.php

    average r33 weighs 3060lbs

    actual wet weights for GTR

    R32 Skyline GT-R Specifications
    GT-R GT-R Vspec
    Weight 3262 lbs 3306 lbs


    R33 Skyline GT-R Specifications
    GT-R GT-R Vspec
    Weight 3373 lbs 3395 lbs

    R34 Skyline GT-R Specifications
    GT-R GT-R Vspec
    Weight 3388 lb 3432 lb

  6. Biggest nissan AFM (Z32 AFM) is up to 500hp.

    If you are chasing over 500hp you need map senser ecu (motec , haltech etc).

    So ECU is depends on power.

    If you are drive mainly on street nistune (remap) is best.

    Dont forget Ford lightning MAF or a multiple afm setup.

    400 - 500rwkw no worries.

  7. Ordered a 12cm housing for my Td06 last Wednesday and it arrived today. That's twice now Kando gave been great with delivery.

    The 12cm doesn't look too big. Whilst the 10cm seems to work on everyones T67s setups the lack of availability for my turbo, combined with the fact that the hyp 2 & 2.2L Evos run 10.5cm housings. Well I a hoping a 12cm wont be too bad

    Will be interesting to compare the 20g with 8cm vs 12 cm and the 10cm T67 vs the billet 12cm TD06. Goes in for tuning on Monday. Going to keep the same dump for the time being but think I will need a 4" dump for T67 and the billet. First the 12cm TD06-20G vs 12cm TD06-73HTA.

    Hope to pop 320rwkws with the 20G and 350 with the 73HTA

    the 12cm on my rb25 and td06h-25g was killer.... super aggressive though.

    • Like 1
  8. What are the inlet temps with that sidemount? That 210 alone is impressive in my book for a side mount intercooler. What are the ARC sidemount's dimensions? I'm guessing decently thick but still rather small length and height wise.

    that was the issue last time, AIT were sky high, now it can make that power all day.

    it was odd that it would not make power even adjusted cam gears all over the place with no real gains.

    Only thing i could pick was intake was rubber and small.

    it is also has more mid as it took more mid timing.

  9. im not trying to make it look like yellow jackets at all i stated that im bombarded with complaints and questions about failing coilpacks in this case it was SSpark

    IF I WAS TRYING TO HIDE I WOULD REMOVE THE POST ON MY WALL WOULDNT I?

    the actual brand in this case is irrelevant .... the trend is the same regardless of chinese brand ive even got a set of pinks ones to add to the list :P Never saw pinks ones till a month ago LOL.

    You say "its the same risk for Splitfires or OEM except the difference is mine are a great price and I offer a 2 year local warranty."

    BUT this is missleading as there is empirical evidence (and 10 years of experience) to prove there is LESS RISK with OEM and SPLITFIRES and that is the EXACT point im trying to make and price wise OEM skyline coilpacks can be had new for the same price as the chinese stuff.

    NEW OEM NISSAN Full sets for $275 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6-NEW-OEM-COIL-PACKS-SKYLINE-R32-RB20DET-S1-R33-RB25DET-GTST-GTR-RB26DETT-60U02-/300851994154#ht_1927wt_1111

  10. STATUS: u should go start your own thread about this and not hijack mine

    Why? i would never post in the ACTUAL for sale thread as that is not fair! but this is the discussion forum.

    if i can slow down these messages i am bombarded with (this happens around 3 times a week)... see attached pic that was TODAY.

    Poor coil packs are getting to epidemic proportions. If i can save one poor soul the heartache im ahead.

    post-34927-0-03104100-1363175940_thumb.jpg

  11. Not u again. Why do u continue to poke your nose in these threads in order to discredit the YJs?

    You first did this a few years ago and you really should get over it. It isnt professional at all.

    If your customers have issues then tell them to contact me directly and I will honour the warranty terms.

    Why post such a thing in someones GB thread? Are you trying to make it hard for them to succeed or do you just have a vendetta against my product.

    No i have a vandetta against all the coilpacks which give our customers grief the yellows are generally no different to superspark and Atomic.

    Someone has posted a group buy in the Forced Induction section on a public forum, i am merely providing information based on my experience...we see 3 cars a day 5 days a week purely for tuning. Since we have such a specific job description (Tuning) we get to see and gather a ton of unbiased unfiltered data and the plain hard facts are that OEM and SPLITFIRE coil-packs are far less prone to breaking down when the pressure is put on them.

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