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Actually that could work out well... im interested in the REAR springs, if they possibly fit a R33 gts-t. And yeah, where are u located? Thanks

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Very true and all the more reason to look seriously at one Since u mentioned it, and just out of curiosity, how does the old v4 stack up these days as a cheapo alternative in terms of features? The V500 has an impressive features list... what are the differences?

Thanks for the reply PSI those are good points which are swaying me too when looking at the v500 $1900 is a decent price considering a PFC + new AFM (which many people forget to factor in) is not all that far off in terms of price. We all know a tune is only as good as its tuner... what i was getting at is the whole deal with the V500 as compared to other stand alone ECUs, i.e.: ease of use, tuner availability, bang for buck??? Haven't heard of all that many people putting them in 33 gts-t's (yet)... anyone else?

Considering PFC's for R33s require a mortgage these days anyone tried a wolf V500? Ive been looking around at a few ECU's and theres a fair bit of useful info around here, but no-one's said much about the V500. If anyone's used one with a gts-t, your opinions would be appreciated. Cheers

Had a look at the engine bay of my R33 (stock standard) and just before the inlet manifold oil is leaking out of the cooler piping seal. Im guessing that its engine oil being spat up backwards through the inlet manifold... running a catch can could collect it? There doesnt seem to be THAT much oil coming out (by comparison my mates calais turbo had a screwed head and that was filling the catch can) but I was afraid it might be my head on its way out. PLUS (probably unrelated) my car stalls a bit too easily. For example if i sit in neutral and pump the brake pedal for long enough the revs will drop and stall the car. Thinking it might just be a loose fan belt but it doesnt seem all that loose. Help?

buddy i sincerely hope you're joking when you say that $2500 is all you have left for insurance, service, etc. That might get you through with a decent condition gts-t but not a 32 gt-r of all things.... have fun eating bread and water for the next few months. All the best mate but a 14000 gt-r will cost you a lot more than 14000. To give u an idea: Service in la-la land where nothing is wrong with your bargain (filters, belts, oil, air-con, 4WD etc): ~$1000 Back here in the real-world: $1000 + ~$3000 gearbox + $3000*+* insurance + roadworthy + registration + tyres..... you get the point. Good luck

That is pretty true. To be honest, with the new laws coming into effect here in Vic its just gonna get harder and harder to get away with it. But apart from that, from a safety point of view, a p-plater whos fresh on the road shouldnt really be driving a car with that much power. This is usually how it goes: (1) You get your P's (2) You drive and old car around for a bit (usually your parents). (3) You do all the usual stupid things in your parents car, and feel like a hero going sideways at 5 km/h in a beat-up 20 yr old falcon that loses traction at 1500 rpm. (4) You buy a skyline and decide to go sideways - this time onto a gutter, through a fence or into a pole. I speak from experience: i saved up since 16 yrs old for an r33, bought it at 18 a few weeks after i got my p's. The first week or so i literally had near death experiences in the wet spinning out onto the opposite side of the road. Luckily, there was no oncoming traffic and nothing happened to me or my car otherwise I probably wouldnt be typing here now. Wisened up after these experiences. The fact is everyone wants a fast good-looking car when they're young. That's natural. But IMO at least get a couple years experience before buying one. It won't hurt to wait till your bout 19-20; you'll be a better driver, know more about cars, and be able to make a better choice.

Ok ive got a couple of 12" kicker subs, going to hook them up to a mono amp. If i buy 4 of the 6.5 " kickers that u were talking about, what would be a suitable amp to hook these up to? ive got a spare two-channel clarion v-net series 2100 lying around but i somehow doubt thisll do the job? Thanx

Ur a champion mate Think i'll do just that and prob get a different amp for splits/tweeters. The subs are 4 ohm each (pretty sure), and the amp is a VNET series 2100. Reckon il get rid of the amp, get the mono for the subs and another amp for the rest. Any advice on how much the VNET should sell for, or any advice from people who have a similar setup is very welcome. Thanx

Thanx fixxer. Was thinking of selling the amp anyway... Any suggestions on what amp in your opinion would be best for the two 12"?

Been looking at buying 2 kicker subs and a clarion amp... Two 12" Kicker Earthquakes come in a custom box... not sure on exact details (coming soon) Clarion Amp is a two-channel... forgot part number/ rating etc Bundle for $300. Any advice/suggestions on these PLUS looking at buying system for the rest of my car as i currently only have the two stock front speakers. *Apologies for amateur question... only ever been interested in performance, but decided i mite as well get sum decent sound finally

From Garrett website: "It is not uncommon at all for an intercooler and endtanks to be anodized black to keep attention away from the car and help it maintain a sleeper appearance. A very light coat of paint on the core and endtanks is also another option, usually much cheaper and easier than anodizing, with a negligible performance loss. " Save a bit of cash and just paint it...