MoogLe

hey guys. there's a local guy that i'm looking to buy a powerfc from and he's telling me that it has a small problem which is that when it's hooked up, the tachometer in your gauge cluster stops working. But he says that the hand controller displays the rpm's just fine. So does anyone have a clue as to what might cause that and how to fix it? he said that someone told him once that there's a small addon he can buy that fixes it easily. help me out here!

so, anyone know if this will fit? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-Silv...ShippingPayment and i'm not located in AUS which is why i'm looking at this one.

but didnt you say that you never actually flipped the switch yet? so how could that have helped if you never actually used it yet? on a side note, i had to jump start the car AGAIN just a few minutes ago, GOD is this annoying! cant wait to get my new battery in, gonna order it by this weekend so it'll be here when i get back from my 2 week vacation

cool, im still deciding wether to get the optima or just do a split setup did you find out what was pulling current? if you did, how'd you di it?

ive got seperate pos cables to each amp. yea i would love to find out what may or may not be pulling electricity all the time but i dont have a multimeter. i'm pretty damn sure it's my battery acting up though, biggest reason is because a couple of months ago my car was garaged for like 2 months because i had to work on my turbo manifold and i didnt disconnect the battery. when i went to start it up, it was COMPLETELY dead, couldnt even turn on the brake lights. After that, there was another time my car stood for 2-3 days after which the battery was dead once again.... and i noticed that it seemed to be going down hill from there... the wierd thing is that Napa tested the battery and said that it's fine.... i'm thinking that maybe it's still producing the right amount of current but just wont charge beyond a certain level. Is that possible? Or is what i'm thinking flawed?

where are those dust covers you speak of located?

yes, that's what i meant, putting the kill switch at the negative cable, thus disconnecting the battery reason i say that is because i wouldn't think that the amp would be the only thing that would possibly pull current from the battery over a long period.... one thing i wanted to ask... i have both my amps negative cables running directly to the battery. is that a big problem? could that be contributing to the issue? And shanus, i'm about a 20 hour flight away from melbourne lol, dont think we'll be bumping into each other any time soon

bump

which red tops are you guys running? i'm looking at these 2 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Optima-Batt...sspagenameZWD1V http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Optima-9002...sspagenameZWDVW and shanus, that sounds pretty cool, i might look into it. so basically when do you hit the switch? when you park the car for a long time? wouldnt it be easyer to put a kill switch at the - wire for the battery?

you know, that kill switch doesnt sound like a bad idea! lemme check out your setup

how would i check that? but i kinda doubt it, since most of the time when it happens the car can barely turn over for 3-5 seconds.... so it'd have to be taking up a HELL of a lotta current if the battery wasnt the problem

i did get it checked and they told me that it's working fine, that its charging more than i'm using

will a red top be enough to handle my stereo equipment?

yea it's quite annoying..... i thought it could be a bushing as well, but how do i figure out which one it is?

So I've been having some battery problems lately and i'm assuming it was brought on by my 2 new amps, subwoofers and all my new speakers.... So my problem is basically that my battery doesnt seem to be charging fast enough and/or provide enough juice to crank up my car after a short drive. I got my battery and my alternator tested and was told that my alternator is sending just over enough current to the battery to get it charged at full load (a/c on, lights, music playing etc.) and the battery was also tested to be working(although i doubt that it's doing too well) So my conclusion was that the battery just isnt holding up to the task and was looking at getting an optima yellowtop or maybe even a redtop if someone recommends that. After looking at the optima website i realized that there are different sizes and they make a huge difference in weight and obviously have different power specifications. I was looking at one of the smaller ones, the D51. Would this be sufficient for my needs? I'm not looking to run a HUGE stereo system for hours on end with the engine off. I just want to be able to drive along with my music on and not worry about wether or not the car will start the next time i try it. Sorry for the long post, but i'd really appreciate the help. This is what my current sound system consists of btw: 2 x JL audio 12" subs JL 500/1 Mono amp JL 300/4 amp Alpine Type R 6.5" components Alpine Type R 6x9's

hey chaps, i need some assistance with this minor annoyance. lately my suspension started squeeking when i'm on a less than perfect road. i have HKS Hipermax - D' Coilovers. Are there any specific joints that i could lube up to stop it from squeeking? what type of oil/grease should i use? __________________

i've thought about it, but everyone down here has experience with aeromotive fpr's so i thought i'd stick to whatever is best known down here

So, i'm on the verge of ordering an Aeromotive A1000-6 FPR and would like to know where the rest of you have mounted yours since i cant seem to seem to come up with any good spots near the fuel rail. Also, what fittings did you need?

Has anyone had any experience with the installation of these parts? I'm about to start installing mine but the manuals are pretty complicated the biggest obstacle i'm running into is i dont know where to tap my RPM signal. Now, i have an Apexi Rev/speed meter and that also measures RPM, so i thought i would just looks where it measures the RPM which i'm pretty sure is just tapped into a wite at the ECU. But the problem with that is, for some reason the rev/speed meter displays my rpms too high, sometimes between 500-1000rpm too high....

how the hell did the paint get like that in 2 days? did they wash it with sanding paper??

i'm looking to buy this shift knob from this seller and was wondering if it would fit my r33 gtst? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-240S...emZ370029935125 it says its for a 240sx, but i'm guessing they all use the same thread?

you know, i emailed Redline through their website to ask for their recommendation and they recommended me the exact same stuff you did MT90 in the gearbox and 75w90 in the diff. so i'm gonna go with their recommendation. After all, who knows their stuff better than they do?

you mean diff in the last part? now i'm doubting wether i should use heavy of lightweight shockproof oil, i've been recommended both, still lost on the diff too, doubt i'll find pennrite around here, never even heard of that brand

R33 gtst really? i've seen a bunch of people recommend redline before

which oils are you guys using in your tranny and diff? i've been searching all over SOC and SAU but i cant really find a definate answer, specially on the diff oil. I'm looking to get some redline oil and was thinking redline lightweight shockproof for the Gearbox but i'm not sure at all what to put into the diff. Would i be better off with heavyweight shockproof in the gearbox?