-Stokesy-
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Posts posted by -Stokesy-
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I'd run a cat if I were you, especially if your staining your rear bar. Any cop that knows his shit will recognise the yellow stain then you'll be up for a very large fine.
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how could they misplace ur pedals? most likely they just stole em for another cars road worthy purposes or even for their own? i dunno what its like in SA but in VIC aftermarket steel pedals are worth a defect lolz. sell em for like $40 and buy the proper rubbers.
Are aftermarket steel pedals really a defect? or is it just the crappy ones that screw onto your existing pedals?
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Also, I agree with 2rismo, getting a wolf would make sweet f*** all difference.
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I would have thought that on 13psi you should easily be up at 200Kw.
It could just be a low reading dyno
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bump
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+1 for Ben @ Racepace
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hey mate, I might be interested if you could send me a couple of pics.
Cheers,
Mark
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Anyone??
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If you want something louder i'd sell the Nismo complete and buy something else.
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Yeah you should be pulling around 14.4V be when the car is running (unless your altinator is on the way out).
If he sold you a dual 2ohm voice coil sub then no you can not run it at 2 ohm's and you should swap it for a dual 4ohm.
If he said that it WILL run at 2ohm's then he's sold you a dual 4ohm sub (which is what you want), or he's wrong
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i heard that he can kill 2 stones with one bird
That's very true, i've seen it!!
It would seem i still haven't perfected the whole brain to fingers communication thing
Back to the actual topic, good work Graeme.
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Chuck Norris can kill two birds with one stone
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I'm assuming what he meant by 2ohm or 4ohm is that the sub is available with either a dual 2ohm voice coil (SWR-1222D) or dual 4ohm voice coils (SWR-1242D)
The different subs can be wired as such:
Dual 2ohm
Series - 4ohm
Parallel - 1ohm
Dual 4ohm
series - 8ohm
Parallel - 2ohm
I would go the dual 4ohm and wire it in parallel as I don't believe the MRD-M1005 is 1ohm stable.
Note: I'm not 100% sure i've got my models correct but it's something like that (I'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong)
Your battery runs at 14.4V when the car is running, 12V when it's not.
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If you remove the centre muffler it will make the exhaust a lot louder. Unless you're aiming for big power numbers i wouldn't bother, it will just attract more attention from the police for very little gain.
The Nismo exhausts are good because they are quiet and free flowing. I have one on my car and it's awesome except for the rediculous carbon tip
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Hey guys, as the topic states I'm only after a snorkel not the whole airbox.
Cheers,
Stokesy
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Is everything in this kit ADR compliant?
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You should go and buy a lottery ticket!!! you're so lucky they didn't torch it just for the sake of it.
I would defiantly recommend full comp, it's just great for piece of mind.
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Thanks again Mark, I will give that a shot
Few others on an audio forum have suggested hooking it up directly off the battery. A 4 - 8g cable off the postive terminal of the battery running to the +12v and remote connection on the amp, 4 - 8g cable running from the negative terminal of the battery to the amp
If it powers up that way and stays powered up then it's an issue with the wiring, if it goes back into protection then it's an issue with the amp. They also recommended changing the 30A fuse as it may be 'partially' blown
Will try the above and see how it goes
How much voltage should be running through the wiring? I hooked up my 2 farad capacitor to the same wiring and it was reading around +12v with the car off but when started it was reading around +14v
Any other idea's, feel free to post
EDIT:
Funny thing is there is two amps running off the wiring, the other amp is a ALPINE monoblock MRP-M1000 and it's running fine with no issues!
Oh, well if the other Alpine is running fine off that cabling then it isn't looking good for your amp unfortunatly
That voltage looks spot on, with the car off you should be getting around 12V and when it's running you should have around 14.4V
You might as well try and replacing the fuse, however; i wouldn't have thought you'd even get the protection light if the fuse had blown, but never having blown a fuse in an amp I can't confirm this.
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Tuff break mate, I trust it was insured.
I'm another one interested to know what alarm/immobiliser was fitted.
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One of my mates had this issue on one of his amps, it turned out to be a poor ground. I would check this first, the reason that the audioline amp works could be that as it's a cheaper amp and therefore doesn't run a protection circuit like the Alpine does.
Or, it could be insufficient power running to the amp. Again this wouldn't show up on the audioline.
If you've got a volt meter then you can check this fairly easily.
Note: I have limited experience with Audioline amps, so I'm assuming that it doesn't have the same level of protection circuitry that the higher end amps have.
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Yeah that pipe is for leaking battery fluid, if you run a yelow top then you wont need this as they are a sealed bettery.
As for your ground / Power cable as wilch said just pop down to Jaycar to get the parts and do it yourself. While your at it get a nice set of terminals, especialy if your running extra power cables to amps, it would be worthwhile running a couple of extra grounds as well.
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I have recently purchased FOCAL 165AI and 165 CA1, for the set they cost me $350 brand new so $300 for just the front splits is a bit steep in my opinion
Also I bought 2 rolls of dynamat @ $50 ea which is all you will need to do the inside and outside of 2 skyline doors
Hey Abu,
Just out of interest what are the rolls of dynamat??
I did the inside and outside skins of both boors and used about 6 sheets of dynamat extreme.
Also what amp setup did you end up running?
Volk Racing Re30s On My R33 Gtr
in Cosmetic, Styling & Respray
Posted
Looks wicked!
What size are they? 19" ?