sonoramicommando

find that hard to believe - that would mean nissan has a massive stock of R32-34 turbos in their parts warehouse somewhere then, wouldn't it?

i believe r33 hicas is actuated by electric solenoid, not hydraulic system. anyway he wants hicas locked out, not attessa.

I don't think hub needs to come off - although if you want them out in one piece, calipers and rotors should come out (or temporarily have them out of the way), which is no big deal. I think they are interference fit to hub as there is nothing else holding them in place. It's always nice to have things out in one piece and in serviceable condition, in this case a pair of tin snips would be the best way to go.

i lll keep you guys in mind but for now i ll look out for rhs for a little bit longer. cheers guys

off chance does anyone have RHS one for sale? cheers, sam

cool thanks man - i ll give that a go

I do have access to a flaring tool, which is 45° flare angle - just want to make sure if its the right angle. cheers

Hi all, I rounded a flare nut on a hardline between MC & Calipers and need to make up a new line. I have new flare nuts and hardline but don't know what flare angle it is meant to be. Can anyone help? TIA, Sam

I disagree that the minimum disc thickness is set by piston travel - I'm sure you've popped them pistons out for overhaul and they have heaps of travel before they will fall out. I suppose your argument is valid enough for mild brake application but if you go the length of fitting larger discs, calipers adaptors and machining the disc to fit the calipers size, you might as well do it right. Cheers, Sam

I dont think it works that way - loss of 2mm thickness equals loss of thermal mass, in turn the brake rotor will reach its upper serviceable temperature quicker for a given brake work. If my memory serves me right, R32 GTR rotor has 32mm thickness as new and unserviceable limit as 30mm. Also, I'm told that thinner rotor is subject to warpage. Cheers, Sam

offset is not the only factor to consider - for a given offset, some wheels won't fit because how spokes are attached to the outer rim, e.g. some rims have thicker spokes getting in the way etc. The only sure way is to trial fit them.

Hey Dale, How do you remove flare seat from the threaded hole off the calipers? I swapped R32 Sumitomo GTR calipers (flare fitting) for R32 GTS25 (banjo fitting) and intend to use the existing hose with the banjo fitting at the end. Looks like I may be able to get away without having to remove the flare seat, but not 100% sure if banjo bolt with bottom out against the flare seat. Also, when you went banjo, did you machine the mating surface flat? Thanks, Sam

regarding using the existing brake hose, im a little bit concerned by the fact that the banjo fitting matting surface is not machined flat on GTR calipers (as it is meant to accept flare nut, there would be no need for it) and the interface would be a possible source of leakage. am i paranoid or is it a legitimate concern? im weary of purchasing GTR hoses (braided or OEM) because they are hella expensive and may not fit 100% correct looking at diagrams on Nissan FAST.

ok - I thought I had it sorted but once I got the tyres on the wheel and put the car down on the ground, here is how it looks with left, right lock and centred position of right front wheel. The flex hose sure looks tight on left lock and possibly leaking (it has whitish funky colour at the bend). Is my concern warranted? Should I get slightly longer hose? Thanks in advance, Sam

Thanks for the clarification - I think I got it now.

the brake line is hooked up to calipers by flare nut, not banjo so that's not gonna work. can i leave the hard line hanging on its own or does it need to be secured against hub or control arm etc? i might take a few photos when i get a chance to show you what i mean.

hi all, currently installing GTR brakes on R32 GTS25 - and having a bit of problem getting my head round how the hard line is orientated in relation to control arms and hubs and how the flexible hose is attached. I'm interested in the hard line at the calipers end in particular - GTS25 has flexible hose attached to calipers via banjo fitting where as GTR ones have flex tube sandwiched between hardlines. Any photos showing how I'm meant to put together would be much appreciated. Thanks, Sam

what is the boost range this thing effective for? say, with coupled with r32 wastegate actuator, i assume it's 10psi upwards (to max boost of ???psi) and with r33 one from 7psi? cheers sam

hi all, can this housing be hi flowed - will hi flow machining clean the damage out or is it rubbish? cheers, sam

thanks for that - so given the mods i have, you reckon i would definitely need 225 minimum (and wider if i had wide wheels)? cheers, sam

hi all, im looking to go with toyo proxes 4 or t1r on my gts25+t and need some advice on what size tyre would work best. the wheels i have are 17x7 (which i guess would be the limitation (225 being the widest optimal width one can go, according to some websites)) and the stock tyre size being 205 there isn't really many options. i'm not fussed about going as wide as possible, as long as i can have best possible compromise in performance - dry, wet, cornering, acceration and braking. the engine is stock r32 rb25de with rb25det turbo (the one with the nylon compressor wheel but not the OP6 turbine housing), with ECU remap. other bits on the car are FMIC, 440cc injectors, 3" turbo back exhaust, manual bleed valve set to 12psi and front facing plenums - in other words fairly light mod. cheers, sam

there are two lines going to the canister, if you have the gauge hooked up to the one below the throttle body, it won't work. how are the hoses to and from the canister plumbed, if you are using one of them for boost gauge?

Don't you mean plenum (or Nissan terminology, "collector"), rather than intake manifold? You don't need to pull the manifold off. cheers, sam

yep - i can confirm that my r32 gts25 has the same p/n air flow meter & it's green sticker. cheers sam

RB25DE s well short of 200kw - GTS25 s the way to go if you want a N/A R32, as RB20DE s way too gutless. and also it sets you up for 25DE+T for later, which is a good performer.