Jaron

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Hey, I'm chasing a good condition stock turbo for m Series 2 R33 until I have the money to hiflow mine. I will also consider other turbos that I can bolt up to the stock gear without too much effort (under $600) Need photos before I'll hand over cash... PM me

Does this mean it is sold?

Interested in the R33 turbo, do have any pics???

Hey guys, Didn't get a chance to get the dump pipe off today before leaving to go back out of town for work, but have eliminated almost everything but the exhaust wheel so I'll definitely have to check that next week. If the case is that the wheel has shattered or come off, can anyone suggest a good place to get the turbo "high flowed" ???

Yes yes - lets pay up - can't wait to get these

Yeah, just checked the actuator arm, opens and closes, spring tensions seems good... will check the compressor wheel in the morning, kinda hoping that its not it, and just the factory blow off valve or something instead... Thanks guys for your help so far

Yeah, so no such luck hey. I removed the airlines to the actuator and tried that, no change, and then removed the line to that factory waste gate, again, no change. How can I see if the waste gate is open or not? Is it possible this flap really is stuck open?

Cheers guys, I'll have a look at what I can see, if no luck I'll take some photos and make up some drawings as I honestly think it's has got to be something silly as opposed to... lol the exhaust wheel is out of the office

Hey PaulR33, Thanks for the link, I have a printed copy of that manual and have had a read through it. The actual problem is that my engine is only running on vacuum, there seems to be no boost. Obviously, I felt a major difference when it was driven around the block. I have since removed the Apexi Power FC and Apexi boost controller, and put everything back to factory the way it was before I installed it. However, I still have no turbo pressure. If I watch the factory boost gauge on the cluster, or even the digital one monitored from my turbo timer, I can see that the car is only running vacuum. I am at a lost to explain what has happened. Surely it would not be a coincidence that my turbo has ceased or something silly like that, more likely something else. What I'm trying to find out is if there is some way I can test the factory components i.e. boost controller, actuator ect. to work out what is going wrong. Also, I'm not quite up to speed on how all these things work which is why I'm asking for help. From what I can see, the waste gate is plumbed back into the air intake and is operated via the vacuum line attached. The factory boost controller has an incoming line from the compressed side of the air intake, and an outgoing line to the actuator. What I'm asking is if I can test to see if the waste gate is for some reason constantly open, not allowing pressure to develop in the intake, or if the boost controller thinks the car is on maximum boost and doing something to the actuator to prevent pressure developing. How does this actuator work??? Thank you to anyone that can help

Yeah, all the gauges are working fine, the car drives fine too (obviously just around the block once whilst trying to discover the problem) It is as if the factory waste gate that plumbs back into the intake is constantly open. Or perhaps there is something funky with the actuator??? Is there anything I can do to check that the waste gate is open/closed, and or that the actuator isn't causing me problems either? How does this actuator work? Can it actually stop the turbo from spooling? Alternatively, is there a chance that the factory boost controller has dies and sending wrong signals to the actuator? Something else I found with the Apexi electronic boost controller, when I blow into the "NO" it flows out of the "COM" quite easily, and vice versa, is this solenoid supposed to stop the flow of air when activated or allow it???

I do have an electronic gauge but I believe it's run off the factory wiring. Is there some easy way of testing to see if the internal waste gate is staying open and continually plumbing back to the intake?

Hey all, I have a huge problem with me S2 R33. Installed an Apexi Power FC with optional boost controller, worked well for the first day (locked it @ 4000rpm til tuned) then hrs after it lost its settings. So I removed the ECU and re-installed the factory one, and as one would expect I had no boost because the optional electronic boost control was in place of the factory one. I cradled the car home, re-installed the Apexi ECU then re-initialised it had still not recovered and is running vacum only. So today I removed the Apexi once again, along with the electronic controller, re-installed the factory ECU and the factory boost controller but stilll have to same problem. Everything seems ok, no warning lights on either ECU and am at lost to explain what has gone wrong. Everything is back to factory, the only thing is the Apexi map sensor is installed in parallel with the factory one, but not plug in to anything. Do I need to reset my factory ECU or any other suggestions??? PLZ HELP

Hey guys, Payment was made today, should clear tomorrow, was made right on cutoff (4pm) if not it'll be Friday. Hey I'd also like to know if there is any problems fitting these to a series 2 as my car is also a S2. To look at the pictures supplied the faces look identical, I suppose the question is whether we will have problems with the calibration, is it as simple as bridging out a pad like in the series one clusters??? Thanks, Jaron.

I AM IN FOR A BLACK ONE !!! Send me the details and I'll forward the payment

Cheers Nismoid

Hey guys, I am too a little unfamiliar with all this information, I know what most things are, what they do, but don't know where to start to upgrade my 33 (s2) gtst to get a little more horsepower. I'll list what I had in mind and some advice would be great... Currently I believe the engine is stock, though it has a/m blitz blow off, blitz pod intake and some Jap 3" stainless exhaust. I was thinking of installing the following... 1. FMIC (obviously) Is there any real big issue with the cheaper ones if I'm only want around 230-250rwkw??? I had in mind using a Hybrid on eBay --> http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Hybrid-Nissan-Skyli...1QQcmdZViewItem 2. Turbo - after reading this above thread, it seems to me that I should exchange my current stock turbo with a rebuilt "highflow" turbo of the same type - yes??? 3. Injectors - Upgrade to Nismo 550CC - yes??? 4. Fuel pump - Upgrade to Bosch, Nismo or Tomei 5. ECU - Apexi Power FC + boost controller 6. Clutch - (mine is stuffed, slips when I load it) so upgrading to Exedy Heavy Duty Organic Clutch kit Then a really good dyno tune... So with this sort of configuration, does everyone seem to think I'll acheive a nice output... and is there anything else I should consider??? Another few things that I'm unsure on are plenums, high mounts and screamer pipes. Is there any advantage to upgrading the plenum or going to high mount turbo config??? I saw this Plenum on ebay, (besides looking nice) any opinions on these??? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...p;rd=1&rd=1 And what advantages do I get from the screamer pipes/dump pipes??? Thanks guys and girls...

Hi there, I am trying to locate good condition parts to clean up my R33 GTST (S2), parts I'm chasing are as follows - Instrument cluster (preferably 300kmh but will settle for factory if I can't find any) - Dual gauge piller to suit 2" or 2.5" gauges, I tried the poxies ones at Autobarn but were too close to the steering wheel - Air / Fuel gauge (2" or 2.5" depending on pillar) - Centre dash surround (part including the dash clock) If anyone has or would like to sell any items mentioned above, please PM me Thanks

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