USRB25S13

I got an idea for dataloging by using the Nissan consult tool to datalog. Does the consult still interface with the PFC?

My PFC should be here in about a week for my RB25. Since these engines are very rare in the US I was wondering what kinda #'s I should tune it to. What's a good traget A/F ratio for the motor and what kinda timing do these motors like? Here is a list of my mods: The car is a 92 240sx. 96 RB25DET series II. Walbro fuel pump. 3" turboback exhaust with no cat. T3/T04E turbo (56 trim compressor/.63 AR exhaust stage V wheel) I have an FMIC for the car but it isn't on yet. Right now I am running 9 psi with the stock ECU and it will hit fuel cut on cool nights. I have a wideband on the car now and I see the A/F's going to 10.8:1 under full boost. Base timing is set to stock (15 BTDC). I was planning on running 12 psi (Should put me around 325-350 WHP) Maybe more to get those HP #'s So what do these motors like for timing and fuel?

Before you crank up the boost beyond 12 PSI You should look into some kinda fuel controller to get maximun perfromance from the increase boost. I ran my SII Motor at 12 PSI stock IC and no Managment without any problems. I am sure it would have made more power with some fuel taken out up top. I now have a 56 Trim T3/T4 on the car and I am still running stock SMIC and stock ECU. At 9 psi the car will hit boost cut every so often. I have an FMIC + PFC on it's way so I can start to make some real power. Anywho.....Run 10-12 PSI and you will be fine. Anymore boost then that and you are starting to ask for trouble.

I have done a bit of reading on the coil failure + emanage on Series II RB25's. I haven't found anything solid yet that is a fix for the problem. Is there a final vertic on this issue? I am going to run it for now with just the fuel harness hooked up.

Would a greddy emanage be able to do the job of taking care of the fuel/timing issues you discribed above with the factory ECU? I just don't think I can come up with $1K+ (US) to spend on an EMS system.

I am in the same boat as maximajim....I have an RB25 swaped into my 240 and have upgraded the turbo and IC and now I am looking for more power. I think I accually lost power from the upgrade since the ECU is now running the car very rich up top. PFC has been my first option. The Microtech sounds really cool. Where can we get one in the US though?

What kinda Timing adjustments can you make with the PFC? The main problem I have here in the US is finding one. I either have to take my chance on ebay or find a good source some where (wink wink) to sell me one. I may just get a standalone (Haltech or Tech III) for they may be cheaper/easier to get.

Looks like a Power FC should be on the top of my future mods list.....Can you still have a boost cut with the power FC? Just for overboost protection.

My series II shows 18 inches or mercury. I always though it was low but after playing with timing and whatnot It never got down to 20. I think it's normal.

I was wondering how the ECU knows the boost level? All that I can see for an input for the ECU is the MAF sensor and that measures Air flow, not boost.

Good Job! Best I could get out of my stock turboed RB25 was a 13.8 @ 104 with a 2.1 60ft. Of course my RB25 is in an S13 body so I should be a little quicker. I am running stock IC, stock ECU with no fuel correction and 3" exhaust. Looks like cam gears and SAFC should be on my list of future mods.

I have a PE belt on my RB25. I got it because OEM ones arn't readily avalible in the US. How many Kilometers can I run on this belt compaired to the 100,000 OEM belt?

Sounds like an Ebay turbo. I would either go with a 50 trim compressor or a 60 trim. The 54 and 57 trims don't seem to be as effecent. Standered bearing turbo's are fine to use.

Yes My ECU wasn't putting out a signal. I think when I was wiring the insturment cluster into my car I put ing power to the circuit going to my ECU. BTW the car feels better with the new ECU.

I tested my tach. I saw 8v with the wire unhooked from the ECU. I grounded the wire and it moved. So I put my new ECU in and it works now! I am soo excited. After driving a month without a tach. lol I put an inline a 1 amp fuse in the wire just to be safe.

My tach have never worked since I did my swap into my S13. The engine is a 95.5 RB25DET. When I first got the clip I took the ECU out and I noticed a "hot burnt" smell coming form the ECU. (no smoke or anything) Since the engine ran fine I didn't think much of it till I finished the swap and found out tach wouldn't work. I checked my wiring to make sure that was right. I then checked for a signal from the ECU and got nothing (No AC/DC or Hz signal) I then opened the ECU and found a burnt part on the circuit board.....the car drives ok but just no tach. I have located and purchased a used ECU and before I hook it up I want to check and make sure my tach isn't shorted so I don't burn my new ECU. Does anyone know what a normal tach should measure for resistance? I plan to physically move the tach through it's full range to make sure it doesn't show low resistance to ground or power at any point. Is this a comman problem for them to just burn up for no resound?

I have this turbo sitting in my room for my RB25DET. Just wondering how it compairs to the turbo's you guy use down there? It's a standerd bushing turbo. Here are the specs. 56 trim GT40 compressor wheel -76 trim T350 turbine wheel -T04E (3" inlet, 2" outlet) .63 AR exhaust housing.

Anyone have one? Having no tach really sucks!

I put down 230 WHP with my series II motor. I have a 3" turboback, Cone filter, and 10 psi of boost. My car also doesn't have the mechanical cooling fan and has a 1 peice driveshaft since the engine was fitted in my S13.

There is a guy in the US who put down 587 WHP on his internally stock RB25. He has since upgraded the headgasket and studs and is shooting for 650-700. This is of course done on race gas. And I don't think it's a setup I would expect to last for a very long time.

I was hoping to find one for $100 US and I will cover shipping ontop of that.

Hi I am located in the USA and I recently swaped an RB25DET into my 240sx. I got everything ot work but the tach. (using the R33 cluster) I found out the ECU isn't putting out an RPM signal. I opened up the ecu casing to find there is a spot on the board that is burnt. The car runs fine but the tach won't work. So I am looking to buy a replacment ECU. A stock on would be the best. If anyone has an extra one you want to sell let me know. Thanks Joel sr20det_742@hotmail.com

I posted here first without seeing my dyno charts. They where emailed to me later that night so I was going off what I was told by the crowd of people there watching us dyno. After looking at my dyno charts I would say my car is making S2000 power. :Oops:

Just got back from our local dyno day. Did 4 pulls without any changes. First two pulls didn't come up right because the tach on the Dyno wasn't reading my RPM's right. (showed 10K RPMS when mine showed 6K) Mods: 95.5 Series II motor 3" turbo back exhaust with 3" O2 sensor housing Cone Air filter Removed mechanical fan 10 psi of boost stock SMIC. STock Turbo, stock ECU HP 230 TQ 290!!??? The dyno charts are being emailed to me. Once I get them I will upload them. They are grahped with HP vs Speed rather then RPM. The pulles where done in 3rd gear. I have an R33 4:11 rear end. Why is my TQ so high and HP so low?

I think that my series II works the same way with reading double. I am going to go check it out right now.