USRB25S13

This is what I had made to fit the turbo to my stock manifold. I look at it as a poor flow design so that's why I want to go with the HKS manifold setup. It also forces the DP to make a sharp bend to clear the steering shaft.

Well I have a T3/T4 with an E compressor cover. The HKS manifold I have is already studed for a T3 flange. I was hoping to be able to make my own mounting holes so I could angle it a bit if need to clear my steering shaft (Dam LHD cars) From what I have heard from others who are using the manifold in there S13/S14's is that you can't use the larger S compressor housing because it hits the motor mount. Right now I am using an adaptor box with an external wastegate plumed into it.

I am looking for some pics of the HKS lowmount cast manifold fitted on an RB20/25 motor. I can't seem to find any. I want to see how tight it fits with a larger T4 turbo. I am mainly looking at the compressor clearance. Google's search came up with nothing and even searching for HKS Manifold gave me 100's of pages with no pictures.

Buy 3 rods at a time. lol

I have read that 350-400 BHP is where the manifold starts to show restriction. Basically on unless you build your bottom end a manifold (Greddy) isn't worth it.

Just keeping it safe. I have a wideband O2 sensor in my car.

I have been running Sunoco 94 on my RB25 with the PFC. I did back off the timing on the maps and riched them up a bit but other then that car runs ok considering I haven't dyno tuned it yet.

Keep in mind the PFC doesn't retard timing if knock is detected. That said, My setup has not seen any dyno time yet but I have it setup to run 11:1-10.5:1 a/f under boost and my knock usally stays under 25. Last week it some how shot to 70. I never saw the check engine light but I wasn't looking either.

Thats the way my PFC is running because if I turn the O2 control on the car surges at constant throttle. My gas mileage is very bad.

From what I understand Mega squirt has no ingnition control so you will have to setup somthing for that. I hate to say it but you may be better off shelling the money out for a PFC. I see them on ebay for less then 900 with comander. (About 300 less then I paid!!!)

Which manifolds do you mean? The Topmount ones for extranal gates or the stock replacement ones?

Does anyone have any pics of the cheap China manifold failing? I have yet to see a picture of one cracked. Just alot of "My friends car had one crack".

I have the same problem with my car expect the surging happens when I am at a constant throttle trying to hold a fixed speed. I have an FPC and I turned off the O2 control and the problem goes away. But my gas milage suffers. I guess in my case a new O2 sensor may fix the problem.

Well The good thing is I have a wide band on my car all the time. But as for the lag time is that going to stay the same?

I will be installing S15 injectors in my RB25 and I was wondering what changes need to be made to the injectors lag/accel time to get it to run.

I will be installing S15 injectors in my RB25 and I was wondering what changes need to be made to the injectors lag/accel time to get it to run.

I have noticed on Ebay alot of SSAutochrome turbo manifolds have been purchased by Austrailian bidders. These manifolds have had a huge problem with breaking and cracking. Is anyone down here using these manifolds with success? There has also been problems with these manifolds not fitting at all. Just want to warn you guys to be prepared since they will not warrent any of their products.

While we are on the timing topic. What kinda timming advance do you guy runs on the RB25's? I beleave mine under full boost at 7K is 25 degree's which seems to be working fine for my but I am wondering about midrange off boost timing to give the car alittle better throttle responce. As of now my knock only goes up to 15-18 and it appears to be just machanical noise and only happens when I tip the throttle lightly while cruising.

I wasn't talking about safe on the GSR motor but for the turbo.

What kinda boost would be safe on a Acura GSR motor. It's a 1.8L 4 cly that revs to 8,000 RPM's. 10:1 compression ratio. I would think 10-12 PSI should be safe.

I have some timing issues with my PFC as well. I set my base timing to 15 degree's. If you unplug your TPS connector the PFC will read 15 degree's. So whatever it reads is where the timing should be. Now if I set it to read 15 degree the car runs really bad. It's slow as hell. But if I set it to 25-30 (about double what it should be) it runs fine and knock never goes about 20. It will read 12-14 with light throttle while cruising which I think it mechanical noise. Once a week after a hard pull it will show 25-35 but that's about it. My guess is that the timing leed I am using read double.

I don't know if a larger radiator will help me since my problem seems to be a lack of airflow to my radiator. Before the FMIC was put in front the car would run a sable 78-83 highway and 85-95 light to light. Now the temp will not go below 91 once on the highway and that is with the heat on. It is summer now but starting to cool off. To get more airflow I was thinking of putting some vents in the front nose of my car. I am running 90% water/10% coolent with some water wetter.

What temp should be considered dangerous to the engine?

I have ran into a runing hot problem on my 240sx with an RB25 swap. It used to run around 80-85C on my PFC while driving around and would climb when I came to a stop since I don't have a larger enough fan. 2 weeks ago I mounted my FMIC in my car and now the temp will stay in the mid to high 90's (94-99) while moving on the highway. The only way to keep the temp in the low 90's is to keep my heat on full blast. I was then talking to a friend about running the car that hot and he didn't think it was a problem unless it started going over 104+C. I know some cars don't turn there cooling fans untill 220-230F. So what does your car run at?

It kinda funny how somtimes it comes on and other times it doesn't. When the light comes on I checked all the peak values for my sensors and MAF is the only one that is at it's flag point. Knock never goes about 13. Injector duty goes to 92-93% and MAF will always be above 5V. I have seen it as high as 5.1V. When this happens my AF stays in the 10.5:1 and the car still pulls pretty well. It's just the light scares me so I would like to put the Q45 on and slove that problem. I know you can just turn the waring light off but I like to have that feature just incase.