Cubes

Unsure.. Would probably be ok. One benifit of running the stock pump as a lift pump and the big pump as the external.

I used an R32 RB25DE head on my RB30. It works well BUT you will need to run a set of turbo suitable valve springs.

I run an external pump. I then spliced the wire from the plug in to the 8ga feed going to the external pump.

This is the fuse I ran inline, works nice with the 8GA cable. http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?I...eMax=&SUBCATID= I've made sure I have a few spare fuses 'just' incase.

Craved, IGN is no good as the trigger wire.. You need the pump to prime then turn off. Not keep running, it begins to make some strange noises after a while if you leave it running with the motor off. So not a good thing. Via the boot trace the + feed back from the fuel pump, chop and use that wire as the trigger.

Interesting... Imagine the ruckus if Holden began using Ford motors.. lmao.

I've recently received a few quotes.. Cheapest were JustCars but they don't have pay by the month. Just Cars have a horrid excess should something happen. Famous Car Insurance is pretty damn cheap also and do monthly. Their excess is a little high. Shannons have a pretty good all round policy, free windscreen, really cheap excesses and a pretty damn good price and no extra cost for monthly. But no under 25's. Vigil... hrmm They were just over $200 more expensive than Shannons or more importantly $500 more than Just Cars. They required a receipt of the type of alarm and came across as being very picky. Their excess is pretty nasty, no free windscreen. They do monthly. Free windscreen is a pretty big one, I've always used it in the past. Why put up with a crack in the windscreen if you don't have to.

Might just be an 'over active' knock sensor. Picking up frequency's it shouldn't or something?!? On that note now the warmer weather is here I can't actually here any knock. I had a listen this morning.. No Slap, water temp was 24degree's before I had started the car first thing this morning. Last winter some mornings I saw water temps of 2degree's.

I'd say the turbo at 14psi would be smack in the middle of its efficiency.. Going by the fact that some others with this same turbo *r34/vg30 turbine housing* have made 270rwkw. The R34/VG30 turbine is a .7 something, as a result less back pressure, less reversion and higher VE. The GT28 & 30 are in the meat of their efficiency at around 1bar according to the compressor maps in the garrett catalogue. Its not directly comparable as the GCG unit does run a smaller comp cover. Any one know what comp wheel the GCG highflow uses? GT28 or GT30? It would be interestering to see the boost a Non-Neo RB25DET with stock cams would need to make the same power as Bass.

ok.. I've made my decision.. GTR Diff... I've found a second hand one from the wrecker for a pretty decent price. If it won't fit up with my axles i'll grab the GTR axles and hubs. With regards to setting the diff tighter causing it not dissengage.. Sounds like a good idea. The clunk and wobble when it disengages is the horrible part of a mechanical clutch.

Silva33, Whats your diff ratio and tyre size. These should be compared in order to compare a dyno chart.

4 Door would be nice.... If only..

I would indeed very much like a nice Stagea. Once Uni is all over.

LMAO On a serious note... At least there's another 5speed RB25DET box around.

Its interestering you get high knock readings on start up, I know of an other R32 that on startup spikes to 50 or so. Why it does this I don't know, it shouldn't but it does. I have heard some VT Commodores ping on start up. Probably just a bad ignition timing and rich cold start afr mixture causing a rapid uneven burn. Detonation is detonation but when you make more power you have higher combustion pressures, as a result a little detonation is much more likely to damage something. Exactly why those little old ford lasers can rattle along for many years without cracking a piston.

Can some one do a test for me? Cruise up a hill around peak torque.. Say 3000rpm or greater, while cruising up that hill bring boost up a little and try to hold a constant speed ensuring boost is being made, then flatten it quickly.. Does boost spike? From my playing with elec auto self learning boost controllers this scenario is where they tend to have issues with a little spiking. gtst25, so yours dropped a little boost up top?

I haven't heard that much bad on the pfc boost controller kit. Bass junky holds 14psi nice and solid, Steve's R33, HKS3037S & cams made 320rwkw, that held 20 something psi no problems. No tailing off is what I am getting at, cheap ebc's will tend to tail off when the turbo is pushed near its limits.

No room for a surge tank at the moment, I need the room for the little boys pram.

Check relays.. I had a play today... I disconnected the internal fuel pump and primed only the external pump. The external pump with the internal disconnected made the EXACT same noise as it does on a hot day after the fuel warms. Not knowing a lot about electric motors...... I wonder if the heat causes the internal pump to become very lazy and no longer becomes sufficient to feed the external bosch pump. The internal pump is stuffed, with the rb20det anything about 10psi and it would lean out and rattle its head off. Maybe its time for a new internal pump. Not looking forward to pulling this sucker out.

Take it back to the tuner.. Did he take it for a road test?

The ECU isn't 'that' intelligent. Mine back to back on the dyno made no difference. I haven't seen any solid evidence the ecu is infact intelligent as in detecting detonation, adjusting timing then remembering where and when to apply the retard to prevent future detonation. I'm unsure if the stock ecu has an idle learn function as the PowerFC. My idle was always the same with the stock ecu, it never went through a learn function as the powerfc does and is very noticable.

I would assume it depends on power being made. My RB20DET 3years ago was making 164rwkw on 1bar, with the stock air box and stock filter and stock small cai snorkle. The tuner grabbed his Apexi pod from his R33 and bolted it on to mine, ZERO power increase. Obviously done on a dyno back to back. I have since placed a 100mm dia cai in to my inner bumper and chopped out the bottom of the airbox + some fibreglass for a nice smooth stock black finish. Unfortunately you R33 ppls are unable to do this as your airbox is UPSIDE DOWN!

Unsure if it can be done on an R33. My route: Out of the turbo follow the stock ic piping in to the front bumper, 90degree bend towards the front of the car a couple of little bends equalling another 90degree bend, this heads across the front of the car slightly behind and down from the IC Core, but still level with the bottom of the bumper. It then throws a 180degree bend in to the intercooler. The cooled air then has a very short trip leaving the FMIC on the passengers side to the cross over pipe via the stock piping route. If I were to use a 'kit' as many have here, I would most definitely look at modifying the piping kit so the air travels in the opposite direction to its current design. That being, out of the turbo across the radiator in to the front bumper then in to the right hand side of the FMIC. Cooled air leaves FMIC from the passengers side up via the stock piping route, past the airbox in to the cross over pipe. Hot air travels faster as a result less lag through the longer piping compared to a cooler charge; Well, I would assume so without knowing much about flow dynamics. The difference is probably nothing, maybe its not. PVC piping is nice to use when setting up pipe work, makes it easy to take it to an exhaust shop and having them welding up the ic piping. Just don't drive around on it like some one here on SAU did... lmao..

Forged internals won't read higher.. Maybe if they are running super sloppy clearances, if that were the case the motor wouldn't last much longer than 25,000km's. The knock sensor works off various frequency's.. I have forged pistons in the 3ltr that run on the sloppy side, to Wiseco's 24+psi/race spec. They see a max of 10 on start up, once idling and you can hear the pistons slapping away, knock is 1. When reading knock levels I think the trick is to watch the graph, under acceleration it will rise up and hold fairly even, ping or detonation is when you see sharp little spikes. If yours is rising to 45-55 and those values are consistent, i.e no spikes then there's no need to worry. Also remember a little spike here and there won't hurt a fairly stock motor, push 300rwkw+ through it and its a different story.

Rev210's was an R33.. Different kettle of fish. I believe Rev210 also had a few little aero mods, you know those little plastic bits that box off the stock intercooler? Rip those suckers out to stop it acting like a plastic bag in the wind.