kdwebber

Hey guys, I am currently searching for the properly sized turbo for my rb25det. I have been looking at various compressor maps but I need to know the volumetric efficiency of my engine. Does anybody have an idea of the volumetric efficiency of an rb25 engine with a stock displacement and stock cams. I'm assuming there are many more factors that could influence this but I thought I'd start the discussion here... Sydneykid any ideas? Cheers, Kyle

old thread I know... I've just bought one of these manifolds. I will be upgrading my turbo and other things at the same time but I will post some pics and some hp/tq numbers when I have it tuned Kyle

hey guys, I'm looking to do this setup on my series 1 rb25det here in Canada but we do not have a buick tridon here and the part number does not match up (I called Buick). If anyone could find me a vin number and year of production from the tridon it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Kyle

I have an rb25 neo in my r32 gts-t right now. GTR cas, gtr cams, series 1 R33 wiring, series 1 maf, series 1 ecu, and series 1 coil packs. It is a very easy swap and you should have no problems with it. Cheers, Kyle

why don't you do your own reasearch first and then install it yourself. No need for this thread really in my opinion

from my experience with the profec b you will have to re program you settings. I could be wrong but I don't think so.

What I did is I took the six digit serial number from the block. This is located on a flat square right at the end of the block near the bell housing on the exhaust side. The serial number is etched into the block so you might have to clean off that area to see the numbers. I then found out which cars my engine might have come out of. Since I knew mine was a non-neo rb25 I narowed it down to ENY33,GC34,GCC34,GC35,GCC35,FY33,ECR33, and WGC34. Then I just started putting the different possible combinations into Fast until it gave me information. Usually it will say VIN not found or something like that until you get the right one. Hope that helps.

I knew there was a difference with the sumps, however I am still curious why the hp and tq numbers are lower than the ecr33. Is the hp just under rated or does the ecr33 run a different tune? Differences in intake and exhaust?

Hey guys, I own a 1991 skyline gts-t that came from japan allready swapped with an rb25det. Many hours at the track in the summer forced me into rebuilding my rb25 over the winter (middle of winter right now in canada). So I threw my engines' serial number in Fast the other day and found out that my rb25det had been transplanted from a stagea. Just the other day I bought an ecr33 rb25det that was blown as well. I also just found out that the stagea rb25 is only rated at 235 hp and the ecr33 rb25 is rated at 255. I know the compression is the same and they both have nvcs so where does the extra 20 hp come from? The stagea rb25 block and pistons are in better shape than the ecr33 block and pistons. Should I put the ecr33 head on the stagea rb25 block, spend the extra money and bore out the ecr33 with new pistons and some machining, or just rebuild the stagea rb25? Thanks for reading through my long post, any advice would be helpfull.

The sr will develop torque early on at low rpm's because of its long stroke. This is the main advantage the sr will have over the rb engines in the low end. The increased displacement of the rb25 and 26 help with low end torque but again the long stroke is why the sr has the reputation of lots of torque down low

thanks. pulled the strut apart, first option is to press a new one in, second is to find a new strut mount. Thanks again

I've been doing some research and I think I can change the whole strut mount. What do you think?

so will I just have to find a stud the same diameter as the old one and then have it pressed into place?

Hey guys, I had one of the bolts that hold the top of the coilover to the car break. My question is can I replace this bolt on the coilover or do I need to buy a new coilover completly. Thanks, Kyle

I'll throw in a new fuel pump. At least it will elimintate one possible problem.

A new fuel pump is definetly a good idea. Not sure if the fuel pump was upgraded when the swap was done, might still have the old r32 pump in there. Eventhough the fuel pump does need an upgrade sooner than later im almost confident the problem lies with the cas. just curious if anyone has had a similar problem or knows why the damage has occured to the half moon.

I suspected the fuel pump but the car will run horribly, I will shut off the engine for 10-20 seconds, restart the car and it will hit full boost again until the problem re appears somewhere in the next 2-10 mins.

Hey guys first off just like to say that this is an awesome website. I'm more of a lurker/reader but i still find this site very helpfull. There are not many rb25's in Canada which makes this site even more useful. Anyways I've been having problems with my series 1 rb25det for quite a while now. When the car warms up to about 83-85 celcius the car begins to hesitate and shudder. It almost feels like the car is not getting enough fuel. The car wont stall but it will not move forward either. Eventually the car becomes undriveable and I am forced to limp home pulling over, waiting, and then continuing on my way. After changing couplers, seals, amf's, plugs, fuel filters, cleaning and testing coils among other things I finally changed out my cas and the car ran noticeably better but still far from perfect. Presenly the car runs ok up to about 4500-5000 rpm where there is a noticeable lack of power and the car will not rev any higher. Even after changing the new cas the same problems have come back when the weather outside reaches 25 degrees celcius. Upon closer inspection the half moon (the part that attatches to the cam) appears to be slightly damaged. I've read that this can cause the timing to be off among other things. My questions are has anyone else experienced this problem? Does anyone know what would caues the apparent damage to the half moon? It appears that the half moon that attatches to the cam can be removed and replaced. Can I order this part from nissan? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.