1973 240z
Brisbane
45k, but would be interested in an R32/R34GTR Deal
I bought it 3 years ago now, with the full intention of turning it into a JDM princess and enjoying it. Unfortunately the best laid plans don't always work out. As the car needed more body attention that i originally thought, rather than restore the car and not enjoy it at all for 5 years, i chose to rebuild it mechanically and leave the restoration (read: respray) until a later date. The car has been finished for about a year now, and i just cant seem to get the energy going to strip it down, have the body redone, and put it all back together. It would be lucky to have driven 1,000ks in the 3 years ive owned it.
I should clarity right now, this car is 100% driveable. It starts, runs, idles, brakes and steers excellent. The ONLY thing it needs is the rust removed, paint redone and new parts installed (to replace the old ones you wouldn't want to re-fit after restoring it). If someone didn't want to repaint this for another 5 years, there is nothing stopping you from enjoying the car and driving it anytime.
With that in mind, i have decided to do an EOI on it to see if someone else wants to run the final 100m of this race and have one of the best 240Zs in the country. Apologies if there are rules against EOI, but either way i would struggle to put a price on this as the current market (Car Sales and Gumtree) is extremely inconsistent. Anyway, lets start with the good bits. As you can tell by the list below, this car had a very specific goal in mind, which was to completely replace everything which was old and crap, and replace it with as much JDM goodness as i could find. A lot of the work on the car (MCA coilovers, S2000 seat mounts, stack gauge surround etc) has been created by myself or D3C0Y and cant be bought off the shelf. In short, i have spent a lot of time researching and finding the best bits for this car, which are what is going to make it very well sorted.
The Car
1973 240Z
Engine and driveline
L28 F54 Block (engineer approved)
P90 head
280 duration .495 lift Wade Cam
MSA performance valve springs
Triple 45mm SK Racing Carbs with velocity stacks on TWM manifold (restored by Lou Mondello and jetted/tuned by CnJ Motorsport)
180HP ATW
Kameari heat-shield
Alloy catch can
Adjustable alternator bracket
Redline fuel pressure regulator
Light weight Flywheel (4.6kgs)
Excedy HD Clutch
Fujitsubo headers (HPC coated)
Fujitsubo Legalis R stainless exhaust and muffler
280ZX Electronic Distributor
3 row 56mm aluminum radiator with twin 12 inch fans
280z 5 speed manual
New clutch slave cylinder
New upper and lower thermostat housing
New lower water inlet
Chrome bolt kits and replaced bolts in many places
4.1 R200 LSD
Suspension, Brakes and wheels
Front and rear (cusco) strut bar
Front and rear white-line sway bars
Front and rear adjustable end-links
MCA blue series coil-overs (front inverted mono tube with 5.25kg springs and rear non-inverted with 4.5kg springs) (engineer approved)
TTT Adjustable front and rear lower control arms
TTT adjustable castor rods
260Z front hubs
280zx 15/16 master cylinder
300ZX 4 pot aluminum calipers with braided brake lines (engineer approved)
Front 300mm vented and slotted RDA disks
New handbrake cable
R31 rear calipers (solid disk) with braided brake lines (engineer approved)
Rear solid RDA disks
New tie rods
New wheel bearings
Watanabe RS 16*9 and 16*9.5
Toyo Proxy T1R 225/50/16 and 245/45/16
Interior
Honda S2000 seats mounted to stock rails (engineer approved)
More new bits, screws, fasteners and clips than i care to count
Electronic ignition (Original tacho modded to read electronic signal)
Nardi Steering wheel
Replica leather handbrake and gear boot
Original 5 speed shift knob (plastic slightly cracked but wood is good)
Restored center console with Fairlady Z badge
Stack Oil Temp, Oil Pressure and Voltage gauges
All lights work
Billet map light surround
New hatch and footwell carpet
New passenger side grab handle
Exterior
Kameari Front spoiler
Replica 432 rear spoiler
Replica ZG flairs (body cut and welded)
Reconditioned front and rear bumpers
Genuine 510 Chrome fender mirrors
Navara glass headlights
Spares (to be installed after painting)
Brand new diamond pattern interior trim (front and rear)
Brand new roof-lining and A pillar trim kit
Brand new full rubber/seal kit
Brand new pedal rubbers
Drivers side outer window rubber
Fairlady Z dash emblem
Genuine Fairlady Z badges
So what needs to be done?
It needs to be repainted. It was resprayed over the original green and the surface was not properly prepared. So there are some areas where the paint has split, has gotten silicone/moisture underneath which has caused imperfections.
It needs to be repainted. It was resprayed over the original green and the surface was not properly prepared. So there are some areas where the paint has split, has gotten silicone/moisture underneath which has caused imperfections.
Rust to be removed. The only rust i have seen (and i have been working on the car for a few years now) is in the bottom of the doors and one spot under the rear window rubbers. That doesn't mean there isn't more, but its not showing anywhere else.
It also doesn't have a roofliner, because the original one was replaced by some horrible white fluffy thing which fell off as i was driving from Brisbane to the Sunshine coast. Rather than fit the new one, i was waiting until it was resprayed so i wouldn't have to pull it out twice.
There is a small leak in the tappet cover gasket from the head not being perfectly flush (bottom of head was planned so the headgasket is a perfect seal), one small leak from the front cover gasket and one small leak from the front of the diff.
The Dash is cracked, and currently has a cover on it.