9krpm

Sorry Marko, I missed your post earlier. I don't have any pic of RH9. I dont think Willall would appreciate me posting pics of their property anyway. You can see it in the background on one of their R35 product threads here http://www.gtrblog.com/category/parts/willall/ Drop them an email, I am sure they would send you a couple. RH9 does exactly what it was built for; 9 secs quarter mile with full factory interior + aircond and 1min 17 at Mallalla race track. Last time I talked to them, they've tweaked it to go faster but have not taken it back to track yet. For comparison, the lightly modded R35 does 1min 14-18 depending on which pro/mortal sits behind the wheel. Marko, if you want pics of my donk, drop me an email. I only had a few. I dont even know where I stored those pics but it looks like a standard rb with an OS spacer between the head and block. It's just a drag engine (which according to "some special garages", had a bad tune), nothing really special to boast about really BTW I noticed from the picture of your engine bay, you still have MAF. Wow, very nice engine with a lot more potential

You will be the first to know that Willall Racing drag car lacks midrange power to improve their 60ft time. I thought it was lack of traction......and so did Willall. Too much lateral talks for this thread......you win.

Marko, I bougth the donk from the drag car. The street car you mention is still well alive. I agree that it is one of the best Aus delivered R32 I had the pleasure of test driving. Thanks to the great man

Yes I am out as well. My engine is just some Jap parts assembled together. It only did a few 8's passes for the quarter in Willall Racing drag car before I bought, freshened and installed it into my circuit car. It's nothing like Dirtgarage's engine that had <insert big names> workshops' tender and loving care. I have not taken it to the quarter because I have nothing to prove, don't intend to beat it's 8 sec record with my low mount turbo and I enjoy the corners more. I may take it to the sticky strip one day when I have time because I do enjoy that too. Would I care to name some circuit RB? I would but this is not the place to do it......Oh wait there was a thread on here about it aldready Please excuse the repost http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Wo...tml&hl=drag and I know it's not any lighter than twoggle so I don't want to hear that excuse again. If it makes the shirtman happy he wins I am sorry to go off topic like this but I cant understand the attitude of my RB26 is better than RB30, then I am building a RB30 to replace the great rb26 and pull my tuner's name out to have a go at as well. Not cool. Sorry to mess up your nice thread Marko.

Mr Turbo in Gaven can help you out. He rebuilt my damaged Greddy T67, inspected and balance out the other for me.

I think your information is a bit misleading there Paul. I respect the forum's rules and I won't mention any name(s). I hate to get drag into these workshop bittering debate but I do feel that your remark needs some clarifications for the person's name you mentioned. Effective timing advance with the RB is what is in the ECU and where the CAS is at. I've heard comments similar to your about the timing BS before from a tuner who regularly claims that his tune has less timing than others and make more power. After paying for 10+ hours of his tuning, the car felt not as responsive in the midrange and couldnt even make any more power up top with the same amount of boost and e85 compare to the street tune for E10 fuel that you mentioned. Yes the tune had, from memory, roughly 5 degrees less timing or something around there in the ECU. Yes you read correct, less timing with E85 fuel. However when I had my timing gun on the car at idle I found the engine and ecu was out of sync. The engine has 2-3 degrees extra timing on top of the ecu. Myth busted ??? The street tune you mentioned is my only tune for the car. The car has been to Mallalla, Queensland Raceway and Lakeside tracks many times in the past 2 to 3 years since I bought the OS engine from Willall Racing. Engine was built with slightly larger clearance for circuit. Engine has never miss a beat with that tune. My previous RB26 engine also had a tune from the person you mentioned. It did not miss a beat for the 2 years that I had it on the tracks also. It is still sitting on an engine stand as my spare atm. The ecu was power fc d-jetro. The reason I wanted to test the vipec ecu is because I wanted to try out a new E85 fuel. The fuel is still new so I just want an ecu with the knock control function, just in case of bad fuel supply. I am not sure where I am off, IMHO; -large intercooler helps lower intake air pressure (boost), -good head porting work + big cams lift helps flow, reduce intake side restriction and lower intake air pressure (abit the stock head flows well with Force induction anyway) -high static compression, tight ring clearance with little blowby, all helps to achieve a higher effective compression If you think I am way off the mark, take your car with the drag size intercooler to the circuit and do a few laps and see how well it copes with the heat. BTW my oil temp on my current setup never read higher than 105 C on the circuit and none of the tuners I've been to say "this is the coolest RB engine Ive ever seen" . Is this some sort of drag racer's "RB record" ?

Zoom in until your vertical axis is only around 330rwkw and you will see something else That's one of the reason why one should not compare dyno printout, especially when speed is on the x-axis. It's a common misunderstanding because of the optical effect on the eyes. The eyes get tricked with the slope of the curve. It is a lot easier to compare response on a power/torque vs rpm graph. IMHO, power is just the combination of effective compression and ignition timing for a certain air/fuel mixture. Effective compression is influenced by static compression, blow by, air density and air pressure. Therefore for a car to produce high power/boost ratio, one should have -huge intercooler to increase the air density (i.e. more air per unit of pressure) -good flowing head, big cams lift -tight engine with very little blow by -lots of ignition advance As you can see a lot of these things are more practical for drag cars rather than cars built to endure high temperature on the circuit. So it's unfair to compare your drag engine to an engine that is built for the circuit. However, the RB26/30 engine will always have more response than a well built race RB26. There is simply no replacement for the extra 400cc displacement

Could you let us know what dump pipes did you have with the big twins?

Same for me Marko, the RB26/30 with T618z is more responsive than the RB26 with T517z and has more overall power

We all know that there are dyno variations etc etc etc and we should not compare these dyno graph....but lets ignore that. What you are referring to is the power and torque vs rpm graph. If there is enough drive train power loss between 3rd and 4th gears in the gearbox then it will and if there isnt significant difference then there won't be any difference in power /torque vs rpm. It's the rule of energy conservation. What I tried to point out, is that when you plot that out on a power/torque vs speed graph, then the graphs are different between the 2 gears. Look at it carefully enough and you will see that your 2 graphs (abit different days) showed that the car appears to be more responsive in 3rd than 4th gear on your own setup. If you still can't see that, then next time your car on the dyno, get 2 print out in 2nd and 4th gears. You will see the difference. So you shouldn't post up a 3rd gear power vs speed graph and compare it to some else 4rd gear dyno printout and discuss response. BTW while we are at it, can you post your dyno graph with race fuel at full boost for some more discussion? Would you mind this Marko?

Sorry I did not see the second graph when I posted...so I will edit this post. As you can see there is a subtle difference between the 2 graphs. The power curves looks exactly the same. However when you analyse the power at specific speed, the dyno run in lower gear always give higher reading. Dyno operators should print out rpm vs power/torque rather than speed for ease of comparison.

My impression is that if rpm is on the x-axis then it doesnt matter what gear it is in. However if the x-axis is speed then everything that produces "speed" from "rpm" matters (eg gear ratio, diff ratio) and should be adjusted before comparison. To be honest, I am in the same boat as Marko. I've never driven anything with a rb26 that is as impressive as the RB30. The worst one I've driven is an rb30 with a pair of TD06. It wanted to do 180 every time it comes on boost.

Have you got a power curve with race fuel and full boost then Paul? Well if it was done in 3rd then you get the impression that it's more responsive at certain speed on the x-axis. It's like saying your car pull as hard in third gear as Marko in 4th. I also notice that both your and Mark rpm limits are at 9k rpm and my is only at 8.5k rpm but my dyno speed is a bit higher. Could someone with more experience explain that? Dyno speedo error?

Paul, is that at 20psi? Is there any reason why it was dyno in 3rd gear?

Sorry it's not the best image but that is all I can do without a working scanner thanks to Window Vista lol and below is what I meant with the small turbo + 3L RB and the 996 GT2 comparison Your setup has way more power and will be very good for the circuit......now go and eat some Porschessss

LOL I just had another look at the dyno I just posted That is one of the worst picture I uploaded on the net lol I shouln't whinged about your previous dyno pic lol Sorry, I will try to find a better pic to upload

Thanks for the clearer pics Marko. Here is mine on pump fuel with the Greddy T618Z and power fc before I got a vipec from an authorised dealer in Brisbane The car was tuned for Boost 98 (10% Ethanol fuel) but had pump 98 fuel at the time of the dyno run so it was a bit down on power/response. The dyno day was near my house so I just came around to give them some support, it's really a circuit/drag car and not a dyno queen so I wasn't meant to be there anyhow lol Anyway, if you ignore the actual numbers and just look at the power curve, it looks like your turbo is more responsive but the T618z breath better up top. Your power curve reminds me of what mine felt like when I had the t517z with the 3L. The torque with the T517z reminds me of a turbo GT2. Sudden thump in the low to midrange and not much at 7-8.5krpm. Your setup will be quite fast on the circuit. Dirtgarage, if you have a dyno printout with your HKS GTRS on pump fuel, could you post for some comparision? I think it would be unfair to post the dyno printout with race fuel because all of the extra response are from timing advance.

Yes some more cam information would be good What are the cams lift and duration? How were they dial?

Yes it would be nice to have rpm/speed on the X-axis. Isnt' the rpm limit at 8500rpm on that dyno print out? Marko, Trust doesn't really advertise any power for the T517z or T618z. It's not nice for the price that they charge for these turbo. However I always had good results with Trust turbo so I stayed with them. The only results I've seen around for T618z are from Uras and this chart Sydneykid, thanks for the calculation. I was thinking the same too. I've made a lot of changes since the tune mentioned, but I will retune the car at the same boost and rpm for comparision. I will keep you guys informed.

I've used a few places for the black coating, in SA and QLD. All of them looked nice and shiny when new but all flaked off with circuit work. The hottest part, turbo hotside, flaked first then follow by the dump pipe. This is with a fairly rich tune for the circuit stuff though. I had a chance to compare a freshly coated manifold and wrapped dump pipe on my honda s2000 when it was on the dyno. There was a huge temperature difference between them. I am back to wrapping now. Yes thermal wrapping will make steel stronger and more brittle than without the wrap. This is a result of the heat cycling effect on the metal alloy.

Adriano, have you had any issue with the nistune on your awesome setup?

Congrat on the set up Marko. It must be one nice fun beast to drive in. Yes I think your tuner is right You will need the Indy blue 1600cc if you want to change over to E85. I am going through the process for my 3.0L and T618Z turbo at the moment. I had around 90% duty cycle with 700cc injectors at 24psi with a power fc D jetro. With the E85 and 1000cc injectors, the duty cycle was 100% at 23-24psi! This was with a faulty vipec adaptor board though. One of the transistor on the board kept the EFI relay on and I have injector buzz even when the power was switched off. The injectors were loosely installed on the fuel rail as well, so I don't know how much E85 juice was wasted with these faults. Dirt is right, the 3.0L sucks a lot of juice I should have the car retune in the next 2 weeks with the 1600cc injectors. I can keep you inform if you like.

My tuner can use an emulator and write/tune the factory ecu. The process is similar to Nistune, but doesn't require the Nistune daughter board. He still has to -open the ecu, -remove one of the processor chip, -put it onto a reader and copy the complete firmware, -transfer the program to the laptop, -hook the laptop to the factory computer (where the chip was), -tune the car, -then write the file to the removed processor chip, -resolder the chip back to the factory ecu. This method retains all of the factory safety parameters e.g. knock control, over heat etc but also can adjust the factory boost solenoid (and possibly the MAC valve). I think Dave @ Silverwater Automotive Service in your state can do the same thing. I would expect the Nistune can adjust the factory boost controller (or a mac valve) too. So you can save the money by selling your boost controller.

I have a few spares from recent tinker with the car. I will take all reasonable offers. Pick up or postage are welcome. Blitz 700cc injectors. 10.5mm. Cleaned and flow tested. Removed from engine 2 months ago. With 6x injectors clips $700 PE Injectors 1000cc. 11mm. Cleaned and flow tested. $1000 Trust RB26 fuel rail 11mm, $250 Trust RB26 fuel rail 10.5mm, $250 BDI fuel rail. 10.5 mm, $200 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/up...884_1862_148600. Nismo adjustable fuel Regulator $150 HKS Kansai torque controller. Works well, $300 HKS copy intercooler. 600x300x100, 80mm inlet and outlet. Fits bnr32 perfectly. Able to handle 600whp with ease. $350 In reasonable condition. 2x High flow N1 turbo for rb26 $1600 I will upload the pictures over the weekend.

I think he somehow might has toe in/neutral though. If the toes were out in the rear, I would expect his car to be more out of control when it came on boost earlier on the track. Anyhow, regardless of what alignment it had, the combination of heavier front (+ wrong tyre combination) and the lack of sway bar means that the rear tyres were almost in the air once the brake were applied. The suspension system was obviously poorly engineered and hence the accident.