GTRPSI
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Posts posted by GTRPSI
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and a new 6 speed is $17k from the Aussie agents:
http://www.otomoto.com.au/c/4488746/1/os-88-sequential-gearbox-and-parts.html
Plus clutch, plus cross member from what i remember last time we looked......
Can be found cheaper locally if you know who to ask.
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Wait what, LHD skyline!??
And also a gauge whore at that.
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I would think the stag box would be plenty strong enough for a stock 32 GTR for cruising duties
Obviously if he wanted to race the car it would need something stronger like the TH350-400 or even 700 might be enough once built
Well the OP did say 400-500Hp, the stag box built should be good to a reliable 450 (abused) from what ive read about them.
If he wants more power than that, then open the cheque book and look at the T400 option for reliability.
It really does come down to his need due to his disability and his power goal.....everyone should have the right to do what they want to their car.
If he is concerned about reliability, dont constantly rape the car racing everyone.......lots of people out there running lots of power on stock manuals but they dont clutch dump and bang the gear shifts, avoiding the need to buy a OS88.
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Dont drive it for crying out loud....that's well and truly screwed.....
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Water sitting on the road right in your tyre line, chances are it was a hot day previously and rained which makes the surface really slippery or a truck spilled a little diesel down around the bend earlier.
Traction control only works under power on the driven wheels, ABS only works under braking, stability control only works on slight losses, once it goes big like that, Gods will for you to live kicks in.
Read the road better next time.
As we use to say in Rally, 9 out of 10 bends can be taken faster than you think they can, its that 1 out of 10 that you need to worry about.
You had your 1 out of 10......
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No aftermarket option for the GTR, i know i tried real hard to find one...
Pretty sure the other models are covered aftermarket from what i remember while searching around.
Id get the CBC version, take your old one in you to check its right when your at the counter.
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i am picturing some king of clamping mechanism locking a router type tool into place on the crank
Yep, but good luck getting it close enough into towards the block with the motor of the router in the way.
Only way is crank out and CNC or manual mill a new one in.....
It can be done by hand, if your just fixing it to sell, but good luck to the poor sucker who gets stuck with it.
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So you went back to stock by removing the SAFC.
Did you reconnect everything back to stock after removing it?
So whats left thats modded and not original in the car that is connected to fueling and reading air flow?
Sounds like its running pig rich....
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WC34 (WGNC34 as Kiwirs4t pointed out), they ran the 2.5L straight 6, bolts straight to the rear of a RB26....obviously you will need the RS Four 4wd transmission to remain 4WD.
The M35 models got a V6 and it wont bolt up from my understanding.
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There is a limited auto selection that can been used for auto conversions in GTR's, the easiest conversion is using the auto from a Stagea 4WD but you wont get 5-6 gears.
From there upwards in power capacity there are stronger auto transmissions however expect even less gears.
The biggest cost is taking a auto and adapting it to take the GTR transfer case and bolt straight on, not a cheap exercise.
Your better off getting a built Stagea 4WD auto as most of it just bolts straight up, reducing the amount of engineering involved to make it work.
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i previously liked lucas trw pads and recommended them to a mate
he put them on both his r32 gtr with stock brake setup with slotted rotors and also his mr2 with adaptor brackets to use larger discs
on the mr2 it pulled up amazing, and on the gtr not so much!
there are so many factors involved from my experiences with the 4 cars mentioned
that being said, i had project mu pads in my sprinter with stock jap brake setup and they were awesome street pad
TRW now have 2 compounds, the GDB part numbers followed numbers and the GDB part numbers followed by a DT.
The ones without the DT are the Euro made pads that were fantastic at stopping, used by both racers and street drivers but dusty, rated to 650.
The DT ones are made in Asia, ceramic based, low dust and dont stop as well (less friction coefficient) and also rated to 650.
Remsa pads come from the TRW Euro plant, in my eyes they are the good old original TRW compound.
For white wheels and low dust we always use EBC Red stuff Ceramic/kevlar, rated to 650 and gentle on rotors, they were the only pads that would keep my sons white wheels clean and what little dust he got was easy to wash off, for me it also meant i stopped going through rotors.
These days we use EBC Yellow stuff, rated to 900 degrees, a little dusty but bah, i get my rotors at cost price so ive stopped worrying about changing rotors more often......and i dont wash my car, thats what my sons for......
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Pad manufacturers usually publish the co-efficient of friction specs for their pads. so just compare those for street pads at street temps, and go with something with the higher number. Or just buy any street pads, they will all have better cold bite than the track pads you have. Give it a good bleed when you change them.
This.
Friction coefficient is the bite of the pad.
Generally speaking, the higher it is the better the bite, however the higher the rotor wear and dust.
A good example of it is Bendix Ultimate pads, 500 Temp rating but touch the pedal and you will be through the windscreen....and 20,000Km later all your rotors will be undersized, rims will turn black every day.
But lets not also forget 1 basic thing, too much bite can be a not so good thing when it comes down to car control when on the limit, controlling brake pedal pressure and car balance can become a issue.
TRW's European made pads compound were good for stopping with a 650 temp rating, lots of street/track day and race car drivers use them today, they were well known for it from back in the late 70's, a good bite but not too aggressive so you had control, those of us who use to play with rally cars back in the day knew the trick of heat cycling them 3 times to burn out the resins and they were good for a lot more, we still get calls for them from track and rally drivers who insist on them.
Remsa pads also come from the TRW plant.
These days i use EBC Yellow stuff pads on all our street cars that see a bit of fun, rated to 900 so no chance of fade, the rotors will shatter before the pads give up, and if i want it to brake harder i use more pedal pressure......
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Is it just me or that third last pic you had the pistons the wrong way around and the second last pic you put them the right way?
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Dont lose sight of the big picture with the GTR, im going through the same, ive told the family clearly, its not going to leave till after im in my coffin.
Mines been off the road for a few years now, busy with business and the son just had issues with his supercharged S2000 after a bit of brass from a sensor found its way into the intake manifold and then 2 of the 4 cylinders.
The other day i stopped at a set of lights and saw a S2000 and R32 stop next to each other, i almost lost all my shit and wanted to get home and finish all these jobs waiting......frustrations....simply not enough hours in the day.
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I recon it looks pretty good, id go with it, looks so nice there, almost like it was designed for it.
I ran a RB26 Windage tray on my RB30 bottom end build, i just had to drill and tap the holes into the girdle, you can see the holes in the pic below.
I also ran it with a crank scraper, but it took a bit of work to grind the right shape out while allowing 1-2mm clearance around the throws.
I got the scraper from the US but its not shaped, you need to shape it yourself.
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Would be hard to get one made that would follow the crank that far down.
Im guessing just a bit of right angle tin sticking out a inch OR better still, some mesh leading from the bolts to the bottom of the sumps other side to stop the oil foaming and break up the droplets......
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Those allen keys, have you worked out what they were for?
Not for some sort of crank/windage scraper setup inside the sump?
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I remove the relief valve and plug it on all my builds.
Last thing i want is a drop in oil pressure which should NOT happen if the filter is regularly changed with the oil.
Its there for people who cheap out with restrictive filters or dont service their cars.
More trouble than its worth when pushing power....
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I mentioned going Auto on our GTR build to my son......he didn't talk to me for a week. (maybe a good thing)
Yep, gentler on the drive line and some of the fastest GTR's have gone that way, but for crying out loud, nothing beats banging away on the gears.
Besides, leave the autos to the little girls.
This below is what will happen to you if you go Auto in your GTR.......
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Those inlets are just a basic port, casting lines are still visible, looks like just a throat job.
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You'll care when boxes start becoming harder to find
I hate to say it, but an Auto will make life a lot easier on all of it... There is a reason the people have trended to Auto GTRs (more the last few years) - Reliability/Consistency are key. Don't break shit and don't need to service it anywhere near as often.
Blasphemy, a auto R32/3/4 GTR, how dare you, go stand in a corner now.
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Temp rating is fade resistance.
Separate that from lifespan, 2 different things.
Just as you can separate it from the aggressiveness on rotor wear.......
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No check valve, and no exhaust vacuum interaction. Pulls vacuum from the sump and head via a baffle system, to a ventrui on the intake between the turbo and filter. Any oil that enters the system returns to sump like a nismo setup, but at an elevated temperature to boil out any water vapor.
Have you measured how much Vacuum your pulling in the sump, or are you just managing to pull blowby?
We were preparing to hand make a venturi between the turbo and filter, a few people suggested i look into the exhaust scavenging setups but my thoughts were that it may not work as well on a turbo setup as it does for the V8 guys.
Opinions + Tips Of Keeping Car On The Street
in General Automotive Discussion
Posted
These days trackers are a waste of time, those that are serious about stealing it will use a high powered jammer to block cell phone reception and the GPS signal, lots have made their way into Australia even though they are illegal, the crooks are the ones with them.
http://acma.gov.au/theACMA/ACMAi/Complaints/iFAQs/faqs-mobile-phone-and-gps-jamming-devices-acma
If they want it bad enough, they will take it, garage is your only hope, forget about parking it on the street and expecting it to remain there if the wrong eyes find it.