GTRPSI
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Posts posted by GTRPSI
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Ah... .nothing beats keeping an eyeball on things while driving.
Being supercharged boost levels keep me informed if the blower belt is slipping.
Having a fail safe on the gauge means i get a visual warning before the haltech needs to step in, simply setup the parameters tighter than in the Haltech.
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I've found the AEM UEGO units are reliable, have installed them into several cars and still working. Just one down side is they can only output one signal, not a massive issue if you've got a modern ECU that accepts 0 to 5V then you can simply parallel that signal for other things.
The fail safes have 3 outputs, a AFR output, a MAP output and a Failsafe or Shift warning light output.
In our case we just connected the wideband output to the haltech for A/F, we didnt run the MAP output because we are using Haltechs on-board MAP sensor and we didnt need the failsafe as Haltch already has all that on board.
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In most cases just replace the valves with good ones and get them lapped in.
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What oil thermostate are you using GTRPSI?
I have a grex/greddy unit that I haven't installed yet because I can't make sense of its operation. When I blow through the ports it's as if it is already open and oil would be flowing through the cooker, I contacted garage 7 who I purchased it from and they tell me that their items on shelf behave the same way and that's the way greddy have intended it to work, even tho they dont understand it either?
Grex, as mentioned they are designed to leak through......keeps air locks out.
Can you imagine it opening after you fitted it and no oil was in it?
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thats a cool little item.
it doesnt seem to be able to display 2 things at once though. would be nice to have AFR dots on the outside and boost reading number in the middle (with alarms active for both).
If you have to run a vacuum line to it to get good logging, you might as well use it to replace your boost gauge... but then you cant read your AFRs without hooking it up to a laptop and changing it.
I currently have it setup to show AF on the outside bar graph and boost on the center digital readout.
You can select it the other way around if you like, you can also select to use both displays to show 1 function, i did this while tuning the Haltech with a basic Map, was better to see the AF ratio in both displays while testing (being supercharged boost is pretty linear) , then when i got home i plugged in the lappy and reset the unit to show AF on the outside and boost on the LED center display.
Warning events are tabulated as air fuel VS boost, if your off on either you will be outside of your set parameters and trigger a event.
Connecting a RPM signal input also assists in revs against AF and boost for the 2 hours of data logging.
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I just fitted a AEM wideband with failsafe to my sons just Supercharged Honda S2000 and hooked it into his Haltech ECU.
The AEM Failsafe gauge setup has 2 hours of logging onboard, i just pull the USB cable out from under the dash and plug it into the lappy for reading a few hours of boost and air/fuel logs VS RPM.
It has a wire you can hook into a RPM signal to give you the Revs logged against boost and Air fuel.
You can also setup high low limits in the gauge to set off alarms, it has a wire (output) you can hook into a aftermarket ECU to pull timing or boost in a emergency.
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The answer to that question is will your oil temp go up quickly enough on track before you blast it without the OEM water unit?
We know of one engine setup with exactly the same clearances as our current build that takes 40min to an hour to get oil temps up to a safe working level........hence why we will run our water unit to help add heat quicker with a thermostatically controlled oil cooler setup to take over once the oil is hot.
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Dont listen to these guys, its special, cause it says so.
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Dont worry about KW output, worry about the weight of the vehicle, stock heavy cars are far more demanding on brakes than lightened race cars on track, speed for speed.
Don't forget E=mc2
or in the case of our cars weight and speed matter so KW is relevant .
My Stagea weighs nearly 1800kg and stopping it lap after lap from 250km/hr was not possible with GTT brakes although they were fine on the road. With D2 front brakes (330mm) and GTR rears with Pagid pads problem solved. I am sure they would be adequate for most Skylines unless exceptionally fast.
Correct but covered my arse with the highlighted part you missed....speed for speed
If the speeds at application are identical, vehicle mass is the issue. (and Visa-versa)
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A thicker rotor can absorb a larger volume of heat, where as a thinner rotor will heat up quicker.
Its the mass of the rotor that gives it the ability to absorb heat, obviously this is dissipated on the straights via air cooling.
Yep diameter adds leverage, in much the same way as it can effect brake balance.
Personally, id be studying a known working setup carefully to save yourself the expensive headaches.
Dont forget caliper piston surface areas and master sizes all play a part in how it works......its not a simple task getting it right.
Dont worry about KW output, worry about the weight of the vehicle, stock heavy cars are far more demanding on brakes than lightened race cars on track, speed for speed.
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Most common split in R30's is around the drivers side engine mount and down the center, bang smack between cyl 3 and 4 where the oil passages run and therefor the weakest part of the block, dont forget the front 4WD diff is there adding twist to that area.
Lots of RB30's also splitting the bores and having hairline cracks from the head studs to the bores too once pushed over 600Kw+ at all 4, much of that is in the tune too, there is only so much they can take reliably.
Grout filling is not so much for block strength but does help somewhat, more so to support the cylinder bores from flexing.
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The RD block needs a heap of work to make the RB head fit but it can be done.
We are actually doing one in the new year with a 3.2 stroker.
Custom crank and rods or is there a drop in kit available for them?
Did you sleeve the block or did you think the extra wall thickness was enough?
What was the biggest issue having the head join the block?
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Check your cam seats for straightness.
As much as people machine a head to flatten it, few run a straight edge across the seats to see if the head is bowed across the cam seats.
If a head warps, it does not just warp at the face, the camshaft end also warps too.
Another quick way to check is to remove the valves and seats, fit the cams and caps and see if the cam turns without any hard points in the rotation......(old school way)
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Did anyone even bother following my advice?
If he's smarts, thats the next thing he would be doing......
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In a nut shell, in basic layman's terms.
The standard R32 GTR ECU is designed to have high impedance injector output.
To run low impedance injectors Nissan used the resistor pack to get around the ECU's high impedance output.
If your running a Haltech, cut and join all the 7 wires at the resistor pack and remove the resistor pack, then select VIA the ECU which injectors you want to run, high or low impedance.
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The ability to run any injector, removing limitations of what you can and cannot run....
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Yep has 1-3 ohm and 3-14 ohm selection in the main setup menu.
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The calipers with Nissan written on them are 4 piston Sumitomo calipers, the R32/R33 Turbo coupe models use them as do R32 GTR models.
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Just box up/reo the bracket to withstand the extra loads on it.
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Sure your not talking about the plate, meaning the round disc to keep the belt on the toothed pulley?
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King springs have a range of coils for coilovers in various diameters, lengths and load ratings, try them as they are local and pretty resonable on price.
They come under their prosport range.....
http://www.kingsprings.com/catalogue/kings_springs_2010%20prosport%20cat.pdf
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Most likely waste gate stuck open or partially open.
Also check your boost side hosing and clamps.
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Generally speaking, if your selling a car (seller), the guy doing the RWC will go over it thoroughly because if there is a issue with what was checked within the 30 days after he inspected it, he can be in a world of shit for signing off on a car that was not Road Worthy if the buyer dobs him in for road worthy issues 30 days after the certificate was signed off.
When going to get a RWC and you are the buyer (already own it but need a RWC), some mechanics can sometimes overlook small things if they know you, as they assume you wont dob in your own car that you bought as it will end up costing you money to fix.
Its best to get a RWC already supplied when buying a car OR to arrange that the owner of the car takes it to your mechanic to have the test done and make it clear to your mechanic that you want it perfect.
Seller will foot the bill and the repairs list, and you know its going to be done right and not cost you more money the moment you bought it.
Last RWC i had done cost me a $1000 and i supplied all the parts......if they want to be carnts when testing they will.....remember its the tester license on the line and they owe you no favors.
In my case i STFU and paid because i sold the car for top $ and the buyer wanted it quick.
Quietest In-tank Fuel Pump? And The Noisiest?
in Forced Induction Performance
Posted · Edited by GTRPSI
I just fitted one into a Honda S2000 and can hear it clearly, stock one was quite as a mouse.
Then again the tank is 6 inches from behind the passengers seat......