GTRPSI
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Posts posted by GTRPSI
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Crank is it stock size or undersized, journal condition, straight?
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RB26 Crank, straight, not undersized, journals good, long nose oil pump drive?
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price for just the front diff?
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Location? Vic?
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Nitto, they have a oiling squirter hole off the rod bearing to oil from under, saves you all the mucking around.
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Parting or selling complete?
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Which series is the Ross balancer? Nexus? Metal jacket?
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crank journal conditions and bore size?
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Vented?
Are you sure they are not solids?
R33 GTS-4 are 4 stud 266mm dia, 9mm thick, 4 stud solids going by my catalog.
If thats what your after send me a pm, i can get them directly in solid or slotted versions.
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Location to view or pickup?
Original long nose drive or converted with a collar?
Grub screwed or rock standard?
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Confirming its 3000Km on it, im a little interested in the bottom end....
Would you be willing to show it with the sump and rod caps removed and head off to inspect the bores, bearings, crank journals and oil pump?
Over bore? Brand of bearings? Built loose or tight? Are the crank journals the factiry size or have they been machined down? 8.5 or 9 to 1 pistons? Standard CP gudgon pins or heavier ones?
Some high quality pictures may make it worth looking further into, if i like what i see id come over to inspect it.
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What shaft play is on the turbos?
Can you identify them? If they are HKS2530's i may be interested.
What is the engines internal specs and condition?
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Standard wrist pins or upgraded ones?
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What are the cam lift, durations and base circle sizes?
What are the lobe conditions like?
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What is the capacity of the sump?
Does it come with a extended pickup?
Trap doors inside?
What is the lift on the 264 cams?
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The link does not show because you need to register to view the links.
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My Ultimates chewed out the wifes rotors after 15,000Km of gentle street driving, the other 2 cars that get abused have EBC Red Stuff ceramic compound, have done over 30,000 Km and the rotors look like the day i put them on.
Also with Red Stuff zero dust, the Ultimates turn the wheels black every second day, i got sick of washing rims 3 times a week.
Sounds like you need to copper or glue the back of the pads in, 2 schools of thought, one is to lube the rear backing where it contacts the piston, the other is to glue it in, either way will stop it.
Ultimates correctly fitted should not squeal, however they will dust up and chew out your rotors.
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I just stuck my nose into my RDA catalog, there are 2 pads listed for a R33 GTS-4, one is 137mm X 54.2 and the other is 121 X 50mm, looks like 2 different calipers were used....
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Check your PM, they are correct, i got my HEL lines from Import Monster and they were identical and went straight on after opening the thin clip holes on the front lines.
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That cap Jeff linked back to is exactly the same one i used.
Leave a little leg on the cap so after you solder it in you can bend it over so the cover fits on.
Take note that the silver stripe running down the side is the caps negative terminal side, dont put the new one in the wrong way.
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We have 19X10 +20 with 275 tyres, rear guard lips needed a trim, a narrower tyre would have been fine.
Rim lip sits dead flush with rear guards.
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No his rears are locking up first, check his first line in his post, larger front rotors will induce more front braking due to the leverage effect of a larger front rotor.
A silly way would be to fit smaller rear rotors.
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Clogged radiator, or fins on the water pump after that, more than likely a clogged radiator
As mentioned could be a faulty temp sender too, you never know....
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I used HEL, Import Monster carry them, cheap, ADR approved and your supporting a forum sponsor (and SAU Nats sponsor)
Very helpful mob too.
R32 Pix Only
in Photography
Posted · Edited by GTRPSI