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GTRPSI

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Posts posted by GTRPSI

    R33 Gtst Rotors

    in Suspension, braking and tyres

    Posted · Edited by GTRPSI

    @Steven - Have you used RDA before? Know anyone who has? I don't personally know anyone who has, so just thought it tread lightly.

    I have RDA rotors on all my cars, all of them now run only RDA Slotted or Gold zinc dimple drilled and slotted rotors, our GTR runs them too with Red Stuff pads.

    i have rda's on my r33 gtst and think they're fantastic! I use my car for street so not too sure how they'd hold up on the track but I have heard good things.

    Our cars are pushed hard, my 21 year old test pilot son has had them glowing more than once, on one of my fords that did not have braided lines he pushed hard enough to burst a line, when replacing it the rotors had nice blue heat marks hinting to me how had he pushed it.

    Oh and those RDA rotors on Ebay.....thats me, PerformanceCarPartsOnline :)

    Must also mention, the original cross drilled rotors on our GTR started cracking after 5 3 lap time attack laps at Winton.......

    If anyone want s pics of RDA rotors with Red stuff pads after 30,000Km of hard driving, happy to put them up, no grooves, no lips, no fading, the rotors still look like the day i put them on.

    I also have pics of the same rotors with Bendix Ultimate pads on the wife car after 20,000Km, she drives like a granny and the rotors are ready for the bin, its not the rotors, its the aggressive pad compound that wears out the rotors.

    Why Are My Brakes Screaming For?

    in Suspension, braking and tyres

    Posted

    Ive tried a few pad combinations on my Sumitomo calipers without noise issues.

    Have you pretensioned the spring plates that fit between the 2 pins over the top, they are designed to apply pressure on to the top of the pads and hold them down to assist stopping noise.

    With time and heat they lose tension and a little bend back into shape for more pressure helps, also make sure the hump on them is pointing in the direction the rotors turn.

    One other trick is to chamfer both edges of the pads with a 45 degree cut, this gives the pads a smoother contact ramp, but as said you need a few hundred Km to allow the pads to spread a layer of material on to the rotors.

    I used EBC green stuff and now use Red Stuff Ceramic compound without issues on my Sumitomos with the stick on backing plate supplied with the pads, not a sound to be heard and they are rated to around 650 degrees. no need to chafer them, just drop them straight in....

    R34 Brake Problem :(

    in Suspension, braking and tyres

    Posted · Edited by GTRPSI

    Are you opening the bleed nipple while someone pushes the pedal to the floor, closing the bleed nipple and then telling the person pressing the brake pedal to release it?

    This ensures when the pedal is lifted that fluid gets drawn out of the resivour rather than air drawn back in from the bleed nipple, make sure the bleed nipple is closed before the brake pedal is lifted.

    It can sometimes take a few goes to eventually get the air all out.

    One other thing, some bleed nipples can need to be opened a little more than normal, just try to avoid getting any brake fluid over your newly painted calipers.....

    When we took our calipers off for painting and the fitting of new seals and braided lines a few weeks ago, it took a bit of time to get the fluid coming out of the calipers bleed nipples.

    R32 Gtr G Sensor Fix

    in General Maintenance

    Posted · Edited by GTRPSI

    The electronic techs over at Austech should know someone or you could go to any electronics repair shop or someone who does Tv;s, however have a look at my reply over there, you may want to check if the Atessa ECU is getting the 2.5 V at its end also in case you have a break in your wiring harness or a bad connection under the rear parcel shelf.

    As i mentioned, do any of the caps look burnt?

    When Does A 5" Cat Become A Restriction

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted · Edited by GTRPSI

    I had a decat pipe and bolted on a FIA approved 100 cell metal substrate race cat on our R32 GTR with twin high flowed HKS2540 turbos.

    Yes at top end, say 5600rpm onwards you can feel some loss of power and turbo response, the higher you revved, the more you lost.

    Now heres the funny part after i spent all my money on it.......its still not street legal, it will not pass emissions testing, it does not meet the requirements, its just a race cat for classes that specify a cat must be installed.

    I was better off staying with a gutted out cat with flanges and keeping the most restrictive/best scrubbing cat on the side in case i needed to go for emissions testing.

    Learned the costly way.

    High Idle

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    The idle control valve also has a gasket on it from memory, take the whole valve off and check its not full of crap. Also disconnect (unplug) it and start the engine to control the base idle yourself via the screw, that way you control its position, regardless of what the ECU wants to do.

    Warm up valve, just get a pair of multi grip pliers and clamp one of the hoses shut to close it, however you said you changed it anyway.

    Spray some WD40 around your manifold joins and listen to the idle to see if you have a vacuum leak.

    Check hoses under the manifold (and elsewhere) for cracks, easy to overlook a perished hose.

    Oil Pressure Drop On Boost.

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Best way to confirm your not dropping your oil level by building it in the head is to drive it warmed up at low RPM and then drop it into second and boost it.

    At low Rpm there should be no oil build up in the head and a squirt to the redline in second should not be enough time to drop your oil level low by building the oil into the head.

    If its still dropping id be looking at the oil pressure sender, oil pump pressure relief valve or something more serious like rod bolt stretch, loose main cap girdle etc which may lead to a spun bearing.

    Try a thicker oil see what happens.....

    Stock Cat Or Not?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Gutting removes the internal honeycomb which is a restriction.

    Gutting is highly illegal, if you get slapped with a EPA test you will need to get a stock cat to pass the test and stay out of trouble.

    For weld in cats they cut the old cat out, keep the flanges, and weld the flanges onto the new cat.

    Head Gasket Gone Or What?

    in Forced Induction Performance

    Posted

    Just a wild guess but either your cooling system was still under pressure when you undid the bolts and coolant seeped into the cylinders or just a case of no pressure but the bolts were undo while you worked on it a fluid got in because you did not drain the cooling system.

    Did you drain your cooling system before starting work?

    If you didnt, then thats your answer, if you did and fluid got in then you have a problem.

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