i4dat

Ok, Fast Guru's, I got some part numbers that I would like confirmed if possible. Its for a 96 R33 GTR, you can see the vin in my id info. Can you confirm: 13270-58S01 - Gasket set for Valve Covers (contains 2x valve cvr gaskets, 2x half moon gaskets, 20x grommets) 24079-84T00 - Coil pack harness from ign amplifier to coils (I broke the plastic locking tab on #3 coil plug) 23731-02U11 - CAS edit: Ok, found out that the bold part number is only for one side of the valve cover, can anyone confirm if these are for the Half moon gaskets? Cam Half Moon Seals x2: 11051-58S00 Thanks guys. David.

I know that the stock GTS-t seat tends to be a little less tall ie the top of the seat back catches me in the middle of my shoulder blades (I'm 5'10) and my GTR seat is higher. I must be one of the Fatasses though because I didn't like how the side of the seat pressed into the side of my rh thigh. So I cut the side bars off of the frame... much better for me and since there are no tracks here in Nassau its not an issue. I have however sat in a set of R34 GTR seats..... now thats nice! I would think that you would much rather the GTR seats all considered. Plus it would help set your car apart from the others. Thats just my 2cents though.

Hey Guys, got another issue. On my front bumper, there is a front air damn that is under the painted bumper itself. Mine's has finally cracked and broken loose from its mounting hardware in three places. Can someone get me the part number for a replacement and for the bolts and metal clips that hold it on the bumper? The yellow area is what I am talking about. Can anyone get me the part numbers? My vehicle info listed under my ID. Thanks. D.

Hey Guys, got a question for ya, seeing that the search button seems to be having trouble with finding me an answer. Has anyone setup a Profec B spec II on a GTR? Specifically the hose routing for a twin turbo setup. And if anyone has set one up on their car, what did they set the profec B to in the setup menus ie gain, start boost, warning, limitier, peak etc. Thanks in advance. D.

Someone mentioned something else to consider. That the car might be running lean at this point. Any reason why it might run lean between 1600`2800rpm only until the engine gets to about 100degrees F? Then not do it anymore (or at least not be noticable)?

I can verify that all you need to do is extend the wires and use butt connectors (what I did) or solder the wires in. I just cut in the middle and added the lenght I needed to get from my controller to my boost gauge (that way its hidden). I used the stock length of wire that came with the second gauge, so that it would be able to reach it on the side of the cluster and not look like crap. The wire you can see in the below picture, to the right of the gauge, is actually the daisy chain wire for the other gauges I am planning to get in the future. The main wire is tucked directy behind the gauge and can really only be seen if you look from outside the windshield or really go poking for it. So far I haven't had any issues with wiring it up this way.

Thanks Ron, I really appreciate it. Do you know if the coolant temp sensor is the same part number as the air temp sensor in the plenum? Thanks. If you ever come to the Bahamas, I will definitly by you a pint. D.

Here is something else to throw into the mix? When I had my laptop hooked up to the car (using blazt datascan 1.52) I noticed that when the car is warming up by itself, the timing is set to 20 degrees. Now when I use the blazt to tell the ecu that the temp is lower than normal, it will go into warm up mode, which advances the timing from 24 to 30 degrees, depending on what base temp I set, which raises the rpm to around 1300 or so. Why doesn't it raise the Timing from 20 degrees when the car is doing a normal warmup? Can this be an indication that something is amiss? Any suggestions?

Oh and can you give me the part number for the coolant temp sensor (looks like the air temp sensor in the plenum). Can can you verify if they are the same sensor for both coolant temp and air temp? Thanks. D.

That was actually going to be my next quesiton. After looking in the workshop manual they say to change the insulators as well as the o-ring. Do you have the insulator number as well? Seeing as I am changing them to try and track down a running issue, I figure I might as well change all. Thanks. David

Thanks guys, I appreciate all of the help so far! I have been thinking about changing the EMS to something else. I have seen a lot of talk using the Emanage Ulitmate instead of the PowerFC. Any suggestions with that? We do not have any reputable Tuners or a 4wd dyno here so I would be having to do it myself using a wideband sensor and road testing. So.... the easier EMS to tune would be really what I am going for. Thanks. D.

Thanks a million! I really appreciate it. D.

Excellent thread! I need some help also for the following: 1996 R33 GTR BCNR33-024671 Injector sealing O-rings Intake Plenum Gasket AAC Valve Gasket (maybe the same as this? 23785-40F00) Driver Door Seal Passenger Door Seal And finally... the little GTR Square plug that goes by the coin holder on the center console behind the shifter boot. Thanks in advance. David.

Hey Tim, thanks for the advise, I will keep it in mind. Like I have stated above, what kills me is it only does it during warmup, after the car is warm (or not as cold as it would be overnight) it will NOT do it. I'm getting very close to running it off of a cliff right at the moment (not with me in it of course). I'm at my wits end. I can't come up with a solution to the 13 degrees timing issue when its cold. Nor why replacing the CAS fixed the problem for a few months and now its back. I could see if it happened all the time, but its infuriating that it only does it under certain conditions. This car is turning more and more into a bane on my existience.

Ok, to try and answer the above questions. I have no idea if the cam is straight or not. Yes the CAS was brand new, came in a sealed Nissan Box. Yes I am running a Timing belt cover. No I do not have the factory airbox, using stock intake piping, but HKS pod filters (the metal screened one's with K&N drycharger covers). If I get the car sorted out I want to get the Trust Greddy Suction kit with the polished pipes that do away with the "twin turbo" pipe and the rubber accordian pipes that are visable now. That is a big 'IF' right at the moment. What I don't understand is why did the problem go away when I changed to the new CAS? And why is it now back after a few months. Maybe we should look at this from a different angle. What would cause a GTR to have its base timing change from 20 degrees at idle, to 13 degrees when it gets to 1600 rpm (or so) and then return to normal above 2800rpm. After about 5 minutes of this condition or when the car is warmed up (I think it is more a time issue than a engine operation temp issue),it will act 'normal'. Until the car goes thru a complete cooldown cycle (usually overnight). Then it starts all over. Thats what got me stumped. I reset the base idle timing (using the wire loop so it still might not be perfect) and it seemed to make it better but the problem was still there. I also tried to adjust the AAC valve but I couldn't get the damn plug off like the manual says to. I guess you need to either have the engine out or have Telekenisis Powers to get it off. Still I am very frustrated. And maybe selling the damn thing and getting a R34 GTT might be a better choice. ARGHHHH! Still any help you guys can give is greatly appreciated.

Has no one experienced a problem similar to this? And is your CAS Sensor supposed to be extermely Hot after the engine has warmed up? Just throwing something else in there. D.

I made one up myself on my R33 GTR. I would figure it would be similar. I ran a 4gauge wire up from the Negative on the battery, up to the engine bay, then I used a regular power distribustion block to run the other gounds from. I put them on the two factory grounds that are near the intake plenum, ran some to the TPS bracket, the factory ground by the water temp sensor, the CAS, the Ign Amplifier and the right side shock tower. I seem to have missed another factory ground spot near were the stock air box would be close to the headlight, so I have to add one to that. Here are some pics, there not the best but it gives you an idea. Hope it helps. D.

When I changed my oil this is the wrench that I used. http://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Best-Universa...9752&sr=8-2 The jaws rotate as you turn the ratchet, which tightened down on the filter and squeezes it tightly. I had to put it on by hand, then get a ratchet down there, I just cracked it to get it loosened then I removed by hand. Be careful though, because there is both a hose that is kinda in the way and a wire for a sensor down there. Don't get them caught in the jaws which might tear/pop them. THAT WOULD SUCK! Its still a P.T.A. to get to, but its a lot better then trying to dislocate both your arm to reach and your head to see what you need to see to be able to work on it. Oh and few cold ones do not hurt matters either.

Hey Guys, I'm new to your forum, but was hoping that someone here could help. I have tried to get suggestions from the guys at GTR.CO.UK, but as of yet no luck. SO.... here goes with my ongoing saga. I bought my 1996 BCNR33 GTR in November of last year, and it came with a bog/stutter/hesitation/misfire? from the get go. It would only do it when the engine was first started after it had been sitting overnight. I would get the problem between 1600 rpm up to 2800rpm in 1st and 2nd gear. But as soon as the car's water temp gauge got to about 100degrees F, it would stop doing it. And besides for a bubbling burble off of throttle thru the exhaust, everything would run ok. The idle rpm would fluctuate between 920 and 980 and settle at 950 for a few seconds then move back and forth again. At first I thought that she might just need plugs/filter etc so I started with them. No change. Then I got an Ign amplifier that I knew was in working order.... no change. Then I got AFMs that I knew were working.... No change. Changed the Coils to Splitfires..... no change. At this point I ordered a BlaZt Datascan/logger and found out that when the car was accellerating, the Ign Timing would start to raise and then when the bog started it would become fixed at 13 degrees. Of course after it was warm, it didn't do it anymore. I tried to check my water temp sensor, and unplugged it after the bog had gone away, but the problem didn't come back so it wasn't that. Mark at Abbey's in the UK suggested it was the CAS sensor going bad and to change it. This I did and presto, it was fixed! I had a rock solid idle rpm of 950 give or take 10 rpm. Everything was perfect. Or so I thought. Four months later and the problem has returned. (I haven't checked it with the BlaZt yet, but the symptoms are the same). And when it warms up the problem goes away. The RPM is now jumping around from 920 to 970/80 again and everything. What could be causeing me to kill CAS sensors? Do I have a bad wiring harness or something? I don'w want to have to keep buying CAS's three times a year. At $600 a pop thats expensive! Has anyone had a similar situation happen to them? Or any suggestions? Any help would be greatly appreciated. David.