bumble_bee

found out wat was wrong.. i had one of my rear rims changed to a stockie.. anyways.. a tech. from work told me having different size wheels on a rear wheel drive car, causes the diff to slip all the time!! so it was my diff that was burning, and thats wat i could smell!! thank god i get my rim back 2mrw.. but i also got told the the circumference of the wheel may not cause it slip all the time.. so if it wat nearly the same as the other size rim and tyre together, than it should be ok.. well thats wat another tech believes.. but most techs said that having different size wheels causes the clutch packs inside the diff just to get over-heated and worn.. so yeah found my problem..

found out wat was wrong.. i had one of my rear rims changed to a stockie.. anyways.. a tech. from work told me having different size wheels on a rear wheel drive car, causes the diff to slip all the time!! so it was my diff that was burning, and thats wat i could smell!! thank god i get my rim back 2mrw.. but i also got told the the circumference of the wheel may not cause it slip all the time.. so if it wat nearly the same as the other size rim and tyre together, than it should be ok.. well thats wat another tech believes.. but most techs said that having different size wheels causes the clutch packs inside the diff just to get over-heated and worn.. so yeah found my problem..

yeah HOTWIRE settings is: 4 in 4 out and is on hi-throttle setting.. they dont use low throttle..i believe anyways well i got a APexi NEO..and wen i try tune-in low-throttle it just give u a big X on the screen..lol coz wen i watch the "correction" display/view it never on the low throttle air map settings..just hi-throttle.. plus straight after my first tune.. 2 days later i couldnt rev past 2500rpm wen driving.. so after work took another look and just rev in neutral.. and the same problem.. thought it was my ATMO bov.. but i had that on its hardest setting..it was fluttering.. so i reset my afc(apexi NEO) so i could drive..lol and i could!!! got i tuned the next day.. found out my o2 sensor just died on me.. dont no if it had anythin to do wit my afc..or yeah.. all good now... so check ur wiring or evan some senors..

a "SLIP" light ay.. na cant say ive ever seen one or ever seen one come on b4 in my car.. same as the A-LSD light..

hey i was searchin on specs for my car, wen i came across r33 series having an optional active lsd.. is this true..and if so how can u tell.. lik i no most gtst came with just normal lsd diffs... so does the active lsd option gtst have like a lsd light in the dash, etc or traction control button..or anythin? i read that you dash will have A-LSD on it, if u had it active lsd..this tru? any info would b good... and another thing do gtst evan have some type of LSD light?

i think the problem has somethin to do wit my boot light!!!! would that keep the door light on??? becoz, i was drivin last nit, wen i notice a bit light comin out of my boot, coz i could c light coming from the air vents, that go into the boot, under the rear window.. so i had to take the bulb out to turn it off.. any ideas..

hey, this mit be a bit of topic, i work for nissan,in parts..and today we had a n16 pulsar come in, and had idle hunting problems rit.. well found out the ecu got shorted! well blew!!! coz the IACV leak with coolant, so the AAC got shorted and shorted the ecu.. couple of grand to fix.. so i was just thinkin.. do rb's IACV & ACC dont have coolant running through it do they? just air from the manifold... correct..? coz my car just started hunting like jumping up to 1200 down to 700rpm and does it over and over again, so i give it a little rev and it goes a way, and the revs drop again all the way to 700rpm and does it again... i believe some idle sensor on the ecu needs to be reset, coz this problem only started happening lik a few days ago.. i talk to a mechanic at work, and reckons i just need to plug in nissan diagnostic computer and reset..no problems.. its annoying but nothing bad,well dats wat hell believes so im gona get dat done on my service, here at work.. but its just weird, czo i was driving fine and then yeah, this started happening..

still on..cant seem to find my alarm wiring harness.. i no its connected to the door sensor switch.. coz wen i un-armd the alarm..for the 30 secs the interior light comes on.. den after 30 secs..it switch off..and the imbolizr..turns back on too.. so i think its shorting out der wer the .. lose wire or something.. anyone ever had problem with the door switch before? or got an idea wer to start lookin for this wiring?

is this same as doing it for a rb25 afm?? so u take the panel to c the soldering to the plug..and just re-solder those wires.. coz i pretty sure we only have 3 in gtst afm's... ill take another look,and giv it shot..

no its a got a "correction %" view/display aswell...on idle thats at -12%.. and my idle is perfect! no jumps or hunts..lol and i got a atmo bov too.. na, its def. A/F %, which is air flow %..so on idle thats reads 2.5-2.6%.. but it doesnt display A/F voltage... it does display voltage thou, but i believe this only battery volts..coz its like always round 13.4-14volts

ah..huh?? na, im going off wat the apexi neo says..its not in volts... its air flow %..

na, my car is fine now since i got the o2 sensor fitted and lowered some of the % of the high throttle air map settings.. all good..i havent had that bunny-hop/learner problem since.. and i get around 400k's outa my 50L tank now, so yeah.. and i still got the atmo bov connected..and my idle is fine.. i cleaned out the acc and i believe that made a hell of a difference ay...

yeah, i got an apexi neo fitted, found out on my second tune that my o2 sensor died.. and my second tune was only two days after my first tune =( coz a day after my first tune, i drove to my mates den after i went to leave, can i couldnt pass 2500rpms..so i had to reset my afc/apexi neo to drive... after my first tune..my car felt so good!used no fuel.. second tune was screwed..coz they had to tune it witout the 02 sensor being connected.. so after that i just chug'd fuel! got a new o2 sensor... but still didnt improve dat much.. found out the second tune..done by a different place.. tune my air map settings from lik +8% to +12%..on some high throttle rpms.. so i adjusted these settings runs so good now, i get lik 430k's outa my 50L tank..lol could run a bit betta, but good other things to fix.. wats ur a/f read at idle?just curious...

way ahead of ya..lol ive already cleaned it..like 1 day after i posted the topic..i cleaned the afm..with electrical cleaner.. looks beta.. my tech mate at work reckons, i just need to reset the idle/acc/air valve or somethin..some sensor that connects to the ecu.. he said no damage, just a bit annoying!! which it is.. but wit the re-soldering of the afm... do u mean under wer the plug connects too? i took these four secrews out and i didnt realise that theres a circuit-board under der wat soldered to the top cover, with no-slack to remove the top..lol so i broke the solder woops! so i gave that a quick spray wit electrical cleaner.. than put the cover(cover wit plug on it, wer the harness connects to on afm) back on..carefully so im gona take it to a electrical store an get to re-solder the 3 wires back on..but this time i mit put in a bit of wire, just so i can remove it in-future an giv it a clean again, without breaking the solder..lol does that sound lik a good idea?

i no..lol its got one wire coming out of the door switch..i think it was just red.. it was stil plug in and looked fine..from wat i can..is there a door module, or something lik that in r33's??? my alarm is connect the the interior light..could it be a short, or a lose wire?? i gota look from my alarm mod. and wer those wires connect to..

yeah, put my new thermostat in..looks lik it has never bein replaced,lol gauge still sits half-way..mayb im just tripping..lol and i put a hose in the rad. and opened the air bleed valve..an did that bout 3 times..with coolant coming out the valve.. drove a bit.. topped up again.. and topped up again this morin.. looks all good..no leaks or nothing.. i beleve it would be the gauge sensor.. but im gona get a water temp sensor/gauge anyways... thanks for all the help..

yeah, thanks found it.. it does say "dont open when hot" thanks for the pic, it in the top of the picture..u can just c it.. i heard u gota put a hose in ur rad. to make it higher than the air bleed valve..so it can actually bleed.. this tru?

hey another questions.. is thermo on the outlet or inlet.. and yeah so on the plenum ay..gota take a look..it near the engine temp sensors??? or near the thermo??

oh ok..tht so.. im gona replace the thermo today.. wheres the air bleed valve for the coolant? any ideas?

are these any good?? wat sensors can they beef-up? or add-ons etc.. gota look into it..

im not buying an afm for more power, if i wanted more power i would buy a big turbo, and get beta internals, i want to make my car beta, so i wont run into any problems in the future, wen i plan to get more power..

hey i got a '96 r33 s2, ive notice my temp gauge on the dash sit exactly half-way now, and i swear it didnt sit there b4, use to sit below it wen at normal temp, so ive flushed my coolant yesterday,still the same.. so im thinkin new thermo or new temp sensors... the only thing is nissan show two engine coolant temp sensors..wat the hell.. one goes to the gauge, one to the ecu/some computer/thermo?lol anyone got any ideas?? plus wit the thermostat, theres no gasket, so how do u seal it, i no i gota used liquid gasket, but it weird,do u just cover round the termo, and put the liquid gasket around it?? any info whould be great. thanks

i got a apexi neo afc..and its currently tuned good, i get about 400k's outa my 50l, so yeah..well the tuning place reckon i mit have a fault wit my afm, or o2 sensor, ive already replaced my o2, now just my afm..

na, i check that..lol now the switch is off.. but wen set to turn wen doors open, the light will stay on evan wen everything is close, plus the door light on the dash stays on too!! so pretty much every time i drive now the dash door light is on...

hey i was at the drags wit my mates yesterday wen i noticed my clutch was stuck, lik all the way in! it didnt come out!...lol i dropped it from 3 - 3.5grand..all good..went to put it in second and notice my clutch was in still.. u could smell the clutch after..lol..real bad! but i can drive fine..and doesnt engage randomly..or anything..nothin un-usual.. sometimes i can smell a bit of clutch after driving..or something that smells lik clutch..lol anyone ever had this problem before?? i believe i still have the stock clutch, and i got 243rwhp..woops!..lol..so it cant take the power or is it somethin else? clutch master cyl(in engine)? clutch pedal piston/cyl. (behind the pedal)? no leaks on either one... any ideas ??plus after i drive for a while..like good driving..i still smell lik a burning clutch smell..sometimes.. im gona get a new clutch, but i just wana make sure nothin else could b going wrong.. i checked for leaks..and nothin..just a tiny bit of oil round wer the gearbox connects onto the the eninge..but dats always bein der..im gona degress it off..an c it any else comes out.. but cant see anything else.. any ideas, would helps.thanks