wabbo69

well here is the official company response ...so do i put it back on ebay or do i get a buy it offer? "Wayne, The NM20 is in fact a Nissan Window module and it does in fact close the windows. You are correct in your observation that the module doesn’t tie in to the window circuitry at all. Instead, the module sends a “window up request” to the BCM through the key cylinder wire and then the BCM takes care of all the high current window motor switching and the required anti pinch detection. Thank you, Kevin Pierson Director of Engineering www.KPtechnologies.com www.KPtechnologies.com/forums "

Good point. I have asked KP what the story is. To me it looks like it can only be an auto lock module that locks car 6 sec's after exit. Thanks for that. I might put a hold on the ebay ad until we know.

Turn lights on and check . The hid will be brilliant white and need to warm from cold. There may be a difference between the high beam and low beam as some had HID on one and the other was standard Halogen.

Ok where to start. 1. I am a strong believer in the original HID headlights as per this one. They are great white and how the car was made and designed. 2. Some compliancers in aus may have changed the wiring to suit non Hid so that would need checking.I think it was a ballast that needed bypassing and different connector on globe. There is more on this site, use search, but the mod is pretty straight forward I think depending on how/where they cut into the standard loom. 3. 2003 v35 gt350 coupe silver. 4. A kangaroo took out the other light

Hid headlight RHS http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271013530139?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Window closer module http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271013533295?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Sunroof closure module http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271013534766?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 Jap/aus radio fm converter with adapter cables. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/271013536884?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 http://www.kptechnologies.com/

Ok folks, 2003 , 30,000km skyline coupe overheating issue - It was the fans after all. Both fans. After a while checking the electrics, cooling system , pressure testing and bleeding the system and all else I tested the fans. They worked sort of and yet sometimes they would not. If the car was moving the air flow kept the fans moving so when they were supposed to start they did but rather slowly. Stop the car with engine still running pull the bonnet up and they would be wirring away but slowly ...whats the problem ? Ok turn motor off and then on again and she overheat as the fans do not start. Put air cond on and then one may or may not start depending on a whim and the various parameters taken into account to operate the relays. The manual gives a test method where you disconnect the temp sensor at back of motor and short the harness pins with a 150 ohm resistor. Bugger me the ecu did not like that and she was hard to start but did and the fans should all come on at high speed. They did not. The fans (BOTH) might start or not depending on their whim not the rules set bu the manufacturer......and unless kicked by hand (very dangerous) or air flow while moving they failed to operate. Even when they did start they would only go slow not fast. So I went on ebay US and bought from Evosport usa a set of Depo replacement g35 "cooling fan assembly)" fans complete with shroud and correct wiring for $99.00 plus $85 shipping .....a week later I had them. Put the new ones in and everything is magic. in fact I reckon better that the originals. All plug n play. http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/evolutionautopartsusa or similar . Now Nissan : a. initially didn't want to touch it, then b. Recommended replace water pump, temp switch, thermostat, coolant ....or after I pointed out the fan issue, c. $1200 for the assy plus labour and wait 4-6 weeks. IE; they did not want to touch it. Am I glad I persisted and glad this forum and the Zed boys (common issue exactly same parts) pointed me in the right direction along the way. In actual fact the air lock theory is still valid but simply resolved using the correct bleeding procedure and does not cause the same level of overheating. So all the stuffing about was worth it as when I tested the old fans on the bench....sure enough they would not start without help and then only spin no where near as fast as they need to. Both fans do the same so it is bulshit Nissan manufacturing. Wabbo All fixed for under $200. Got to love the dollar parity thing.....sometimes.

Ok tracked my problem to the thermal fan Passenger side. If you apply power as per manual (Both Zed and G35 Manuals) nothing hapens. If brave enough to give it a push it starts slowly on it's own runs for a while then stops again. I have no idea what the issue is with the fan motor but it is stuffed. Drivers side works. Now the questions ....I want to go as close to genuine as possible : 1. can you buy just the fan motor or do you need a complete dual assembly? 2. Is the Zed dual fan assy a straight swap for 2003 coupe. 3. Is the G35 dual fan assy suitable as they are a $100 or so plus post. 4. What price at a local dealership? As it appears you have to remove radiator as well with all those issues. g

found temp sensor connector. did the recommended 150 ohm resistor thing mentioned in manual. Fans came on but not high speed. Traced wiring and found earth was dodgy so redid that. 350z manual has right set up for relays and wiring. now sits at half temp then after about 20 minutes temp rises. Funny thing is the temp guage just jumps a few bars when near max heat. maybe we have Air lock? I think its time to bleed the system again and if nothing changes off to nissan with consult 11.....but i doubt their abilities to diagnose over plug and play ...replace as much as they can. Also wondering about fitting a new thermal fan in front of the condensor....anyone done that?

I need help? I have the us coupe service manual but it does not match my jap imported car. I was tracing the thermal fan circuit and : the relays seen to be in reverse order in the control box plus the wire colours don't match on the fan connectors. I suspect the actual circuit is different as when there should be earth on two adjacent contacts the earth is on opposite connections etc. I have worked out the relays (1,2 and 3) all work properly the low speed fans work but the high speed does not kick in when it should. Have suspicion that when they repaired my car a while back (kangaroo) somewhere underneath they cut and pasted the wires as they did replace the radiator support and passenger side guard but that does not explain the fact the colours are all different to the us manual. Does chris or anyone have any leads on the circuit for the fan control or jap colour codes.

HELP....Seeing relays, fuses, pressure test are ok and I managed to get the low speed fans going from cold start but high speed do not seem to come in when they should. I guess either wiring issue or the fans are wired in series somehow and a winding is open. Test in manual is to disconnect temp sensor and terminate with 150 ohm resistor. Reading the manual I miss something. If you want to test the high speed fans you disconnect the "coolant temperature sensor harness connector", put a 150 ohm resistor across the pins and the high speed fans should come on. If they dont there is either a fan open winding or a wiring fault. Where is the bloomin connector.....I cannot find it? I suspect it on drivers side about half way down engine somewhere but not sure. Should be a 2 wire connector by the looks. Where is it?

Well I have the same problem and mine is a 2003 coupe and has only done 30,000k. Pressure tested cooling system. Fine. Bled the cooling system using all correct gear. Proper filler etc. Fine. Went for a drive. Fine. Temp half way as usual. No water in oil or rough running. Stopped and while idling the temp went through the roof and gurgles from overflow tank. Looked under bonnet and neither electric fan was on. Turned air cond on and neither fan came on which is unusual as normally the passenger side one operates with air on. Any clues anyone? I find it hard to believe the fans themselves fail. Both at the same time... Checked wiring as best I could and all looks intact. The car is absolutely stock. g

Is it fixed yet? and if so what was the problem please?

Ok now I have similar problem. 28,000km on clock. When driven from cold it sits on half temp guage fine. Then when I stop engine the water gurgles out the overflow tank. Turning her back on again does not help. Both fans seem to work but are slowish No obvious alerts coming from car. I did notice though that the temp guage jumped about 10 % in less than a secnd or so. I am used to the old thermo sensors where everything moves more slowly but just wondered if there could be some kind of engine eartning issue or electrical issue? Otherwise sounds like poor water circulation ....water pump not pushing enough water about. Really weird

I have a busted rear silver coupe bumper....Anyone know where in aus I can get either replacement or after market one?

I think i have a stainless dual output legallis Cat back for the v35 in the garage. Interested? Prolly $1000 plus shipping from Melb, Vic ono. Either that or I fit to mine to see how it goes. I am not that fussed but thought worth a suggestion. G