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Gerg_R31

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Posts posted by Gerg_R31

  1. Block has been machined to suit a stroked nitto crank

    (pm sent)

    Will upload pics on weekend

    Had a quite a few PMs with similar questions;

    can you hold onto it? Im expecting some money in the next month or two

    Sorry but i wont be holding onto something as 90% of the time they never had money to begin with

    why not get a refund on the kit and just sell the block as is

    1) i put a deposit of 1,500 back in October, either i pay off rest of kit ($6,500 retail price, $5,000 owing)or get store credit, store doesn't have anything to suit the 31 that i don't already have, or it isn't going to go with the next motor im going to put in

    2) highly un likely to sell block by itself at a price to break even

    how much for un assembled?

    $10,000

    low ballers

    Just stop trying, not interested in swaps either

    postage

    Happy to send from work if buyer organises it

  2. Location Sydney NSW

    The Story

    Got a rb30 block i machined up, was going to stick it in my r31 to make the na 26/30 a 3.2L but have decided to go down a different path,

    Motor is currently un assembled as i had put down a deposit for the stroker kit and that's as far as i got

    I have machined the block using a kit we had here at work;

    The Details

    Work done;

    Acid bath

    Bead blasted whole block

    drilled out press in plugs replaced with screw in type

    bored and honed to 86.5mm/ 3.405"

    angular grove in main tunnel

    Line honed main

    Drilled out oil returns to 10mm

    Notched top of Welsh plug housing on exhaust side

    Tensioner stud relocated according to guide

    dummy assembled

    Notched bottom of bores for con rod clearances

    ground sump rail removed 0.004"

    Ground water pump/ oil pump area, removed 0.003" (was slightly bowed)

    Ground to 0 deck height

    Painted black with rattle cans

    (no awd conversion, no 12mm gtr stud conversion)

    current parts

    ARP main studs

    ACL race series rb26 main bearings

    ACL race series rb30 big end bearings

    The Price

    Asking price $11,000 for assembled short motor

    will need $5,000 up front to pay off rest of kit so crank pistons and rods can be balanced and assembled

    EXTRA INFO

    (make 100% sure you have the whole amount as once the kit is paid for, i can't give refunds until another buyer has paid if you decide to back out)

    (assembly will include ring gaps, bearing clearances, bearing crush, crank end float measurements. I can't give warrantee as i have no control over how its run in or driven, and that im not a business)

    Will upload pics a little later

    Contact me via pm (i hate giving my number out on a public forum)

  3. read the title, my $2.00 (cause N/A's always cost 100x more)

    delemma with n/a rb's

    stock = slow, but that'll do

    a little modified = will want more eventually

    all out nuts modifications - pig to drive down low

    pushing it even further with sleeves and fj20 pistons and stroker cranks etc but eventually you will think and know its cheaper to drop in another motor which has double the power from factory and even have that engineered with plenty of change

  4. Throw in a set of supertechs valves and double springs, (online or through fabre as they're the only supertech distributors in aus cheaper to get the master valve train package online) get seat pressure around 80-90lbs

    In my opinion if this is not a dedicated track car, i wouldn't bother with the L19 studs, arp 2000 have a longer shelf life and will do the job just fine, but this is just my opinion

  5. can do any CR you want just have to ask

    Or instead of being misled and guessing, you have to actually do maths as the piston DOES NOT have a compression ratio built into in

    what makes a static compression ratio;

    head chamber volume

    head gasket volume/ average bore x thickness

    bore size

    stroke length

    piston to deck height

    piston dome/dish volume

    In the tutorial thread there is a formular i wrote ages ago cbf posting link

  6. True 3.2? does litre actually matter or stroke? When is the point where longer stroke stops making power?

    and creates less?

    Spool 3.2 stroke 91mm

    86mm bore 3.17

    86.5mm bore = 3.2

    87mm bore = 3.24

    Nitto 3.2 stroke 90mm

    86mm bore = 3.14L

    86.5mm bore = 3.17L

    87mm bore = 3.21L

    I personally think these cranks are similar as in the rips main caps and cradle and the spools version not long after

    but just ask yourself, why is something cheap? What did they cut out? Was it just to make it sell easier? Or was there something that just wasn't needed?

  7. its going to add up alot more than you think, just for first glace at your list, u will need 2 sets of those arp stud kits for ur mains, as they are sold for SR20s and u will require 2 packs to do your motor.

    sr20 main stud kit is different to the rb, sr20 msk part number 202-5402

    The rb25/26/30 all use the same main stud kit part number 202-5214

  8. When is it? Sunday 28th of October 10am until 4pm

    Where is it? Unit 11 8-10 Deadman Road Moorebank

    df_openday2.jpg

    What is it about? The day will feature a walk through of the workshop showing the machines and explaining why things are done

    What is on display? Various parts, including Nitto products with Nitto themselves being there to take any questions, customers cars including a 400ci V8 powered AMC Gremlin

    [media

    [/media]

    Places there is no limit for how many people to turn up

    Other things to know It is important that enclosed shoes are worn for safety reasons and there is a special pack available for Current SAU Members,(so don't forget your membership card)

    df_openday.jpg

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