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Gerg_R31

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  1. Slight update acid bathed rb26 head, removed valve springs and vacuum tested (to make sure the valves seal on the seats) it got 100% Will be chucking new valve stem seals on it tonight injectors were cleaned/ flow tested and they showed that they are not usable, 4 injectors are stuck open (which would explain the over fueling issue i had)
  2. Vk56 at its widest point is 26.5" these only came out with an auto behind them There is also the reluctor wheel mounted to the flex plate there is an adapter plate and clutch kit available off the shelf to match a 370z manual there is also the height, custom manifold defiantly will be needed there is also the sump which holds oil vertically at the rear of motor, instead of the horizontal like the RBs (this was to fit the front diff in front of it so it would fit in the Nissan titans On top of that, not much room for the turbos they also came out at 9.8:1 (some with corn based eflex) 2007+ = cvct timing chain also has been known to jump at high revs US guys claim 17mile/gallon with their n/a Ecu? 370z use same computer pistons Google gtm cams Google Jim wolf technology (s2/s7 s2vct s8 or s8vct most popular (costs 2k long motor 1k 370z box 1,200 adapter plate 1,200 flywheel/ clutch kit 1,500 cams 300 springs 2-3k importing costs 1,200 pistons 6k stillen supercharger kit then once here 5k+ fabrication End result probably around 450-500hp edit; Just noticed the dates, sorry for mega post bump lol
  3. wow never noticed that, thanks for pointing that out (i'll look into getting that changed by a mod or something) but yeah, ARP bolts have always turned up in a box for me with settings that either say 60 or 65
  4. All the arp main stud kits I used at work were all 60 or 65ft as stated on the spec sheet they came with
  5. Bump To add; once again, prices are set, no low balling offers via pm or in person will be accepted, i don't care what your situation is, get a loan if you only have X amount to spend, or if your having money problems then buying parts may not be the best thing for you and to those that want to low ball for the novelty of it, go suck a fat one Questions I've been getting; 3.2; "why should i buy this when the spool kit is cheaper?" because Nitto didn't have their kit designed for budget boy racers who circle jerk with their friends over it, its designed and proven on the race track/ drag strip also to answer the "what compression ratio are the pistons?" the rb30 block has a 10cc dome, the 3.2 has a 5cc dome Google "compression ratio calculator" and enter in the rest of the measurements of your motor
  6. Mrstabby - your right about some cheaper stuff that has a "that will do" attitude during manufacturing processes yup extra reciprocating weight and cylinder pressures (including spikes from detonation) can also put extra stress on the crank, rod bolts and main bolts I usually find Nissan rb rods have around 0.006" plus bearing crush, which is a decent amount for high rpms Bearings will also spin from heat fatigue where they loose their bearing spread (which is that firm fit you get from putting the bearing shell in) All the fun of pushing power/rev limits of motors
  7. What a lot of people don't know is power out put has nothing to do with rods, its the rpm, rods and more often rod bolts stretch at high rpm, this is where bearings spin as they loose their bearing crush GTSBoy is right with people buying stuff that they don't actually need, a set of arp rod bolts around $150, then shot peening followed by a close and hone big ends to strengthen rods, but for not much more you can buy after market rods to add, precision, spool, eagle manly etc all made in same place, they just sell in bulk to different wholesalers
  8. Unless your going over 6000rpm then factory rods and rod bolts will do the job fine if you are going over 6000rpm, then get a set of nitto rods, a lot stronger and about $50 - $100 more
  9. I'll throw in a little sales pitch here NITTO's RB30 Stroker kits 4340 Grade Billet Steel Fully Counter Weighted Undercut Counter Weights Knife Edged Nitrided Finish Fully Balanced CONNECTING RODS 4340 Grade Billet Steel I-Beam Construction Quality Oversize 7/16” ARP 2000 Series Bolts Oil Squirter Galleries from Big End Oversize 22mm Little End PISTONS JE / NITTO Produced Quality Forged T6 2816 Alloy Low Silicone Content Contact Reduction Grooves Accumulator Groove Thick Wall 93 Series Nickel / Carbon Steel Alloy Pins JE Pro Seal Premium Ring Se Increased stroke from 85mm to 90mm which is the peak of stroke increasement for making power efficently Engine capacity is increased from 3.0Ltr to 3.2Ltr (which provides more power and torque whilst still retaining a strong ability to rev and produce horsepower at high RPM) Crankshaft is made from solid 4340 billet steel, 4340 one piece forged billet steel I-beam connecting rods and JE/Nitto forged piston set along with upgraded thick wall gudgeon pins and premium gas treated ring sets. All components have been meticulously machined to exacting tolerances and the highest standards. All Nitto stroker kits are far superior and track proven compared to the cheaper manufactured kits currently available that consist of cast crankshafts, and unfinished H-beam connecting rods. NITTO's RB30 Stroker kits are designed for use in all motorsport classifications including drag racing, drifting and circuit racing. Rotational capability is lifted to 10,000 + RPM and power handling is rated to 1600 HP. The changed harmonics due to the crankshaft material, counter weights and knife edging design, results in a much “freer revving” more balanced engine. Continuous testing and development on and off the track has allowed us to design a kit with extreme strength whilst retaining a sensible reciprocating mass weight so there's a perfectly good reason why the nitto 3.2 should be powering your skyrine
  10. Bump still for sale; RB30 block with nitto 3.2 stroker crab.k RB30 block (former RB26/30DE) RB26 head off block above VL-T MX7 gear box (with clutch and pressure plate) Rb26 ACL race series full gasket kit Rb26 ram tubes to suit ITBs RB26 extractors to add; Bare RB26 head (with all cam caps) light porting, cnc cut seats to suit +1mm valves, tomei bronze guides, full reco'd $1,500 (including chamfered and line honed cam tunnels) I'll be leaving work in 4 weeks, I will be adding more RB stuff that I've accumulated over my time at work, once all them bits sell im only putting spanners to my own motors
  11. $9,500 crank bolted in rods on pistons AWD adapter kit http://proengines.com.au/sumpadapter.html I find that's the easiet kit to use and it comes with all bolts and internal oil pick up Gear box bolt patterns in the rb series don't change on the block (as far as i am aware) [email protected] email me there if you'd like
  12. 3.2 still available, his deposit has been returned, didnt get approved for loan (is kinda mean of the banks to give pre approval)
  13. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/424099-eoi-unfinished-project-32-gtr-9sec-car-andra-roll-cage/#entry6845266
  14. Got reasonable offer for 3.2, potential buyer has been pre approved for a loan, so its now on hold
  15. Had a few of works customers interested, or their customers, heaps of tyre kickers or it doesn't suit their intentions (fair enough, not going to sell anyone something they can't use) I do finish up here in 7 weeks, don't really have space for the 3.2 stuff at home To add ACL race series MLS head gasket sold
  16. Unfortunately that is just part of selling, haven't had a low ball offer since school holidays finished It will always be what the buyer thinks its worth vs what the seller thinks its worth i think i should be selling it all for more then its worth, but i did chose the prices based on what i would accept as a minimum i know it will sell, im just not in a rush or desperate for money
  17. I'll just put a little encouragement here; R.I.P.S 8.5 second pass with a nitto 3.2 and a few other bits http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/05/mgawot-2-a-1500hp-gtr-street-car-that-runs-eights/
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