Gerg_R31

You have to notch bottom of bores and passenger side oil pick up to oil pump rib to clear rods with the nitto kit, wouldn't be surprised if you have to do the same

wankel rotary is listed as a supercharger but also isn't, they're design is very similar to how a twin screw supercharger compresses air

Block has been machined to suit a stroked nitto crank (pm sent) Will upload pics on weekend Had a quite a few PMs with similar questions; can you hold onto it? Im expecting some money in the next month or two Sorry but i wont be holding onto something as 90% of the time they never had money to begin with why not get a refund on the kit and just sell the block as is 1) i put a deposit of 1,500 back in October, either i pay off rest of kit ($6,500 retail price, $5,000 owing)or get store credit, store doesn't have anything to suit the 31 that i don't already have, or it isn't going to go with the next motor im going to put in 2) highly un likely to sell block by itself at a price to break even how much for un assembled? $10,000 low ballers Just stop trying, not interested in swaps either postage Happy to send from work if buyer organises it

Spool 3.4 needs crank clearancing in block nitto 3.2 needs rod clearancing haven't used a spool 3.2 but i would assume the same

Technically a rotary is a supercharger

Location Sydney NSW The Story Got a rb30 block i machined up, was going to stick it in my r31 to make the na 26/30 a 3.2L but have decided to go down a different path, Motor is currently un assembled as i had put down a deposit for the stroker kit and that's as far as i got I have machined the block using a kit we had here at work; The Details Work done; Acid bath Bead blasted whole block drilled out press in plugs replaced with screw in type bored and honed to 86.5mm/ 3.405" angular grove in main tunnel Line honed main Drilled out oil returns to 10mm Notched top of Welsh plug housing on exhaust side Tensioner stud relocated according to guide dummy assembled Notched bottom of bores for con rod clearances ground sump rail removed 0.004" Ground water pump/ oil pump area, removed 0.003" (was slightly bowed) Ground to 0 deck height Painted black with rattle cans (no awd conversion, no 12mm gtr stud conversion) current parts ARP main studs ACL race series rb26 main bearings ACL race series rb30 big end bearings The Price Asking price $11,000 for assembled short motor will need $5,000 up front to pay off rest of kit so crank pistons and rods can be balanced and assembled EXTRA INFO (make 100% sure you have the whole amount as once the kit is paid for, i can't give refunds until another buyer has paid if you decide to back out) (assembly will include ring gaps, bearing clearances, bearing crush, crank end float measurements. I can't give warrantee as i have no control over how its run in or driven, and that im not a business) Will upload pics a little later Contact me via pm (i hate giving my number out on a public forum)

Does it count if the rb20e is running while a jet engine is pushing it across the line? Or is that cheating?

read the title, my $2.00 (cause N/A's always cost 100x more) delemma with n/a rb's stock = slow, but that'll do a little modified = will want more eventually all out nuts modifications - pig to drive down low pushing it even further with sleeves and fj20 pistons and stroker cranks etc but eventually you will think and know its cheaper to drop in another motor which has double the power from factory and even have that engineered with plenty of change

before this goes any further, and before a motor blows up a neo head has a smaller chamber, ive measured them between 52 & 55ccs in the tech section there is a simple maths formular i wrote up to work out your actual compression ratio, guessing = problem waiting to happen flat tops with neo head estimated around 9:1 static

Throw in a set of supertechs valves and double springs, (online or through fabre as they're the only supertech distributors in aus cheaper to get the master valve train package online) get seat pressure around 80-90lbs In my opinion if this is not a dedicated track car, i wouldn't bother with the L19 studs, arp 2000 have a longer shelf life and will do the job just fine, but this is just my opinion

Or instead of being misled and guessing, you have to actually do maths as the piston DOES NOT have a compression ratio built into in what makes a static compression ratio; head chamber volume head gasket volume/ average bore x thickness bore size stroke length piston to deck height piston dome/dish volume In the tutorial thread there is a formular i wrote ages ago cbf posting link

True 3.2? does litre actually matter or stroke? When is the point where longer stroke stops making power? and creates less? Spool 3.2 stroke 91mm 86mm bore 3.17 86.5mm bore = 3.2 87mm bore = 3.24 Nitto 3.2 stroke 90mm 86mm bore = 3.14L 86.5mm bore = 3.17L 87mm bore = 3.21L I personally think these cranks are similar as in the rips main caps and cradle and the spools version not long after but just ask yourself, why is something cheap? What did they cut out? Was it just to make it sell easier? Or was there something that just wasn't needed?

They were given out as raffle ticket prizes at the dinner, that's about all i can remember,

sr20 main stud kit is different to the rb, sr20 msk part number 202-5402 The rb25/26/30 all use the same main stud kit part number 202-5214

Thanks to those that turned up, 34 people was more then we expected for our first open day we are talking of doing this again next year And on lack of sleep, i finished here at 1:30am and was awake by 7 and back in at 9:30 Now to go home and get my drink on

Soft Have fun, i know gearboxes are a kent to get in, mx7 VL turbo boxes are a pain in the butt

Tech night points?

Meatspin? Pig on a spit?

Just got ROSS Balancers on board, they're going to be here to speak about the crank trigger, and their dry sump kits Don't forget to invite your friends

easy if they leave their boots/ shoes behind, that a shit in them but yeah no playing pranks on the apprentices, we only just got a new one

Just to add; The day is open to anyone not just SAU so feel free to invite your friends But the SAU packs are exclusive to SAU members as long as they post so we know how many to make (9 so far will be made) And there won't be pit girls as far as i know

finally up; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/410209-duncan-foster-open-day-with-nitto-showcase/

When is it? Sunday 28th of October 10am until 4pm Where is it? Unit 11 8-10 Deadman Road Moorebank What is it about? The day will feature a walk through of the workshop showing the machines and explaining why things are done What is on display? Various parts, including Nitto products with Nitto themselves being there to take any questions, customers cars including a 400ci V8 powered AMC Gremlin [media [/media]Places there is no limit for how many people to turn up Other things to know It is important that enclosed shoes are worn for safety reasons and there is a special pack available for Current SAU Members,(so don't forget your membership card)

Denis' medal (still sitting at home ready to be picked up) says class D

You'd have to speak to my boss on that one Date is confirmed as the 28th of October, there will be some goodies for current nsw members will get an actual event thread up real soon