Gerg_R31

Character references will help (that describe the defendant and not the case as these will have it excluded) but there is still the nurse who her job is a hard character reference to top in the eyes of the court, done free charity work?

Sorry ill re word that as "the side that will be saying he did those things he is contesting" as there is always 2 sides

"it's not what you know it's what you can prove in court" - Law Abiding Citizen A bit of advice, I assume your young, so the prosecutors will take advantage of this American court based tv shows is largely different to how local courts are run in Australia i would more focus on fighting to have the negligent driving charge dropped, not focus on the licensing part, you get this over turned, then your points should be returned but i STRONGLY suggest to seek professional legal person/s who are EXPERIENCED but remember if it cannot be afforded then seek legal aid Best of luck

Im out, have fun

my tom tom doesnt pick up the road, but there is a little sign, coming from the highway its on your left and if they are still doing road works, the exit was directly after the over pass

So far it is most likely going to be more of an open day and is looking to be around end of October, still working on details

Unsure of back end was behind me

yellow r34 of some kind (sorry not familiar with reconising the different versions yet) with black bonnet, was behind me yesterday on st johns road canley vale area

I always forget which side but either the intake or exhaust on the rb25 runs the same springs as the rb26 the other side is shorter

was good to meet everyone, had a good time too oh and humbla that car was a maserati (how ever its spelt) it drove back passed us while we were sitting on the side (i read the badge)

As in no alcohol here

Alcohol free, enclosed shoes are a must will get more details soon (maybe even see if we can get a "problem solving" print out for diagnosing bores bearings etc)

My boss and nitto is talking of having an information day sometime in October main things we have talked about discussing is the why things are done i.e why certain surface finishes, why things are balanced, why the cross hatch in a honing paternal is 60/30 etc anyways if there are plenty keen ill work on an actual date also if there is any specific topics that anyone would be interested in feel free to post suggestions

static comp ratio formula; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/378823-engine-internals-comp-ratios-general-info/ if your dont have a burette use an eye dropper 1ml = 1cc head cc's spread vaso around the edge of the chamber place a perspec plate with a hole drilled in it on top to cc piston dome option A make a mould out of play dough of the dome and cc that option B put perspex plate over dome, use play dough to seal the area around the piston, cc that ( C ) measure outside of the top of piston (usually 1mm smaller) ( A ) measure dome height ( B ) ( A ) x ( A ) devide by 4 = = x 3.142 x ( B ) = = devide by 1000 = = take away ( C ) = dome volume

its something that will have to be measured to get an accurate measurement, i.e the rb26 im doing now 13cc dome 87mm pistons, was told it is all standard, pistons sitting 10 thou bellow, 68cc chamber (pretty big cc for a stock head) it is 7.95:1 with a 1mm/ 40 thou composit head gasket the same pistons in another rb26 started at 8.65:1 with a 63cc chamber and a 5 thou piston to deck with the 25/26 pistons they always sit heaps down the bore in the 30 block, then there is the head, we can guess how much the chamber is but then it could have been ground before, or reco'd before with heaps taken out of the seats though i guess you can easily get to 10.5:1 with them pistons and some machining, but easier cheaper etc could be just to buy pistons with a bigger dome with the right pin height

ill be driving down aiming to be leaving orange grove maccas at 6am with coffee

thats a bit exagerated in the raise in compression

here is what i do at work; i grind the head & block i put the cams in i put the crank in i put a thick rag on the deck i put the head on i put on all the timing gear i put bearing blue on bottom of stud, i then line up tensioner to where its best suited i then drill and tap the M10x 1.5 thread

Spotted a dark grey 34 number plates GTR **9 turning onto bigge st Liverpool around 1am last night

H beams have the "valley" to guide the oil, but how does the oil get there? The notches your talking of are on the sides right? And im not talking about detonation consistently, my car plain H beams, tuned, bad batch of fuel detonated, rebuilt, coated pistons drilled 1.5mm hole in rod in line with bearing, tuner said he had more timing to play with, more chance of a better result

Exactly!

such an intelligent response, "speedah" to correct and educate you; (this requires reading the entire post) never did i say the r35 was a shit box, i was quite impressed with them at first and the "porche killer" nickname and the nurburgring lap time, aka far from a shit box My workshop has had quite a few come in, and from there i noticed they are the perfect symbol for todays throw away lifestyle. The customer spending a large amount of money to buy the car initially, then something goes wrong or sometime in the future the motor could do with a rebore cause its a tired motor, but there is barely anything that can be repaired, just replaced, so more money goes to purchase of new parts or motors and the rest ends up in land fill, in short IMO great for nissans profits, bad for consumers wallets to add in my earlier post not once did i suggest, encourage or talk up "an 80s skyline" or any other type of vehicle, this post was and still will be in reference to the r35 and i was just stating my personal experience with these motors to help Marko R1 make his decision which im assuming this thread was started to list the pros and cons of each of the series (similar idea when purchasing my r31, i got all the pros and cons, with the knowledge i found i bought a 31 knowing that the cylinder heads crack, leaking power steering racks being a factory option, whinning diffs etc but i still bought it cause "i heart box")

if its not broke dont fix it, but by time anyone get to 100,000kms im sure darton would have the sleeve kits available so these engines have more then one life

technically it doesnt have lifters, it has cam followers have you actually done oil pressure test or got oil pressure guage?

argo carrillo spool etc all decent rods, but i wouldnt put them in an rb30, rb30 doesnt have block mounted oil squirters, the oil squirter makes sure the oil reaches the bottom of the piston, which keeps it cooler, less detonation, less f**king around taking the timing out to loose power to prevent it detonating without the oil squirter in the rod it will seep out towards the radius/ counterweights and will spray but will randomly touch the bore and bottom of piston skirt rb30 STD & Nitto rods have oil squirters in the big ends of rods - thus the reason i only recommend the standard with up graded ARP bolts or Nitto H beam or I beam rods (if you or anyone else knows of any other brands that have the oil squirter in the rb30 big ends then please post them up)