[email protected]

i am jacking my own tread but hows the holset working out for ya

yep same gasket, the car was sitting for awhile as i was getting an ecu and injector problem fixed. i drained the oil went from castrol gtx 20w50 to castrol synthetic blend 20w50 and got no oil. today i pushed the oil restrictor further into the block and rolled the motor over a coule times and now some oil is coming up throught the galleries but how do i ensure what had it blocked doesnt do it again. i did a motor flush already!

currently I have no oil getting into my head from except at the nvct valve and my lifters are dry. I removed the head and noticed that you can push a wire straight throught the vct oil gallery but the other two galleries I cannot. Is this normal or is this indicting a blockage.

in the bahamas we usually torque them down to 33psi, something we developed through trial and error seems to work !

honda guys in florida are making plus 600hp with this turbo, so if obviously makes power, my question is how laggy would this turbo be on a rb25det, the honda camp claims it spools just as fast as a sc61,

came across a brand new garrett t3/t67 on ebay for $725.00 us. the honda guys have made plus 600 hp on this turbo, they claim its spools just as fast as a gt35. the turbo is t3 based with a .63 a/r and stage 5 wheel turbine the compressor uses the 67mm found on the t04r. Any information with regards to this turbo's performance on the rb25det will be appreciated. also how would it compare to the greddy td07 67mm

Im looking to purchase a precision gt3076r and wanted to know how they compare with the garrett counterpart in terms of reliability and performance

THE PISTONS THAT CAME IN THE MOTOR ARE OK , THERE AFTERMARKET, I HAVENT BEEN ABLE TO IDENTIFY THEM, BUT THEY DONT HAVE A DOME ON TOP LIKE THE RB25DET OR RB26DETT PISTONS, THEYRE FLAT TOPS. I DID A COMPRESSION TEST ON THEM ABOUT A MONT BACK AND THEY AVERAGED BETWEEN 115 TO 120 PSI PER CYLINDER. I DONT KNOW WHY THE PERSON WHO BUILT THE ENGINE WOULD USE THEM MY GUESS IS NITROUS, IN ANY EVENT THATS WHERE I STARTED. THUS WHEN THE RB26 PISTONS BECAME AVAILABLE I JUMPED AT THE CHANCE HOPING FOR BETTER COMPRESSION BUT IT SEEMS ILL BE RIGHT WHERE I STARTED.

I DOUBT ITLL BE THAT LOW, DROPPING THE MOTOR IN TOMORROW WILL POST RESULTS AFTER COMPRESSION TEST

ok i have put the pistons in the block using rb25det rods and an rb25det crank, the sides of the pistobns however dont reach the top of the engine block, any idea how this affects the compression ratio ++++

my is engine knocked and a friend of mine has sn rb26dett in which he recently replance his stock pistons with forged ones, he said i could have the stock ones if i wanted. Has anyone tried the swapping rb26dett pistons into the rb25, what time compression could i expect, are the pistons stronger, any info would be appreciated.

as stated the block came with a rb20det head, i took off the head and repaced it with an rb25det from my orginal motor. it was then that i noticed the pistons where flat. yes the car was warm and at wot, and yes the car ran fine up until yesterday when i noticed a knock

thanks thats good news so you only change bearings when the motor knocks

I purchased an rb25det long block about six months ago, it had a rb20det head on it which i replaced with my rb25det head, during the swap i noticed that the pistons where flat topped and I the stock ones are domed, however I needed my car up and running so i proceededto put the engine in my r33. Recently a friend of mine had some problems with his rb25det and we purchased a compression test tool. Since we had the tool i decided to check my compression, all cylinders indicated 115 psi, can anyone give me some idea what the dynamic compression is.

i have a friend with an rb25det in a 180 and we noticed some blow by so we did a compression test and sure enough the number 5 cl was indicating 130 psi. what i need to know is, can we take down the motor and take out the number five piston and replace it with another, using the same conrod and bearing is that safe, or should he buy acl race series bearings and replace the whole bunch, i read somewhere here that you torque down the big end to 40 pounds. ive also read that the factory rod bolts stretch and give the wrong readings, do i need to purchase arp rod bolts. why im asking is no one builds motors here in the bahamas and we'd hate to ship it over to the united states for an issue with one piston, shipping alone is $1200.00 US. please help havent got a clue