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i am jacking my own tread but hows the holset working out for ya

yep same gasket, the car was sitting for awhile as i was getting an ecu and injector problem fixed. i drained the oil went from castrol gtx 20w50 to castrol synthetic blend 20w50 and got no oil. today i pushed the oil restrictor further into the block and rolled the motor over a coule times and now some oil is coming up throught the galleries but how do i ensure what had it blocked doesnt do it again. i did a motor flush already!

currently I have no oil getting into my head from except at the nvct valve and my lifters are dry. I removed the head and noticed that you can push a wire straight throught the vct oil gallery but the other two galleries I cannot. Is this normal or is this indicting a blockage.

in the bahamas we usually torque them down to 33psi, something we developed through trial and error seems to work !

honda guys in florida are making plus 600hp with this turbo, so if obviously makes power, my question is how laggy would this turbo be on a rb25det, the honda camp claims it spools just as fast as a sc61,

came across a brand new garrett t3/t67 on ebay for $725.00 us. the honda guys have made plus 600 hp on this turbo, they claim its spools just as fast as a gt35. the turbo is t3 based with a .63 a/r and stage 5 wheel turbine the compressor uses the 67mm found on the t04r. Any information with regards to this turbo's performance on the rb25det will be appreciated. also how would it compare to the greddy td07 67mm

Im looking to purchase a precision gt3076r and wanted to know how they compare with the garrett counterpart in terms of reliability and performance

THE PISTONS THAT CAME IN THE MOTOR ARE OK , THERE AFTERMARKET, I HAVENT BEEN ABLE TO IDENTIFY THEM, BUT THEY DONT HAVE A DOME ON TOP LIKE THE RB25DET OR RB26DETT PISTONS, THEYRE FLAT TOPS. I DID A COMPRESSION TEST ON THEM ABOUT A MONT BACK AND THEY AVERAGED BETWEEN 115 TO 120 PSI PER CYLINDER. I DONT KNOW WHY THE PERSON WHO BUILT THE ENGINE WOULD USE THEM MY GUESS IS NITROUS, IN ANY EVENT THATS WHERE I STARTED. THUS WHEN THE RB26 PISTONS BECAME AVAILABLE I JUMPED AT THE CHANCE HOPING FOR BETTER COMPRESSION BUT IT SEEMS ILL BE RIGHT WHERE I STARTED.

I DOUBT ITLL BE THAT LOW, DROPPING THE MOTOR IN TOMORROW WILL POST RESULTS AFTER COMPRESSION TEST

ok i have put the pistons in the block using rb25det rods and an rb25det crank, the sides of the pistobns however dont reach the top of the engine block, any idea how this affects the compression ratio ++++

my is engine knocked and a friend of mine has sn rb26dett in which he recently replance his stock pistons with forged ones, he said i could have the stock ones if i wanted. Has anyone tried the swapping rb26dett pistons into the rb25, what time compression could i expect, are the pistons stronger, any info would be appreciated.

as stated the block came with a rb20det head, i took off the head and repaced it with an rb25det from my orginal motor. it was then that i noticed the pistons where flat. yes the car was warm and at wot, and yes the car ran fine up until yesterday when i noticed a knock

thanks thats good news so you only change bearings when the motor knocks

I purchased an rb25det long block about six months ago, it had a rb20det head on it which i replaced with my rb25det head, during the swap i noticed that the pistons where flat topped and I the stock ones are domed, however I needed my car up and running so i proceededto put the engine in my r33. Recently a friend of mine had some problems with his rb25det and we purchased a compression test tool. Since we had the tool i decided to check my compression, all cylinders indicated 115 psi, can anyone give me some idea what the dynamic compression is.

i have a friend with an rb25det in a 180 and we noticed some blow by so we did a compression test and sure enough the number 5 cl was indicating 130 psi. what i need to know is, can we take down the motor and take out the number five piston and replace it with another, using the same conrod and bearing is that safe, or should he buy acl race series bearings and replace the whole bunch, i read somewhere here that you torque down the big end to 40 pounds. ive also read that the factory rod bolts stretch and give the wrong readings, do i need to purchase arp rod bolts. why im asking is no one builds motors here in the bahamas and we'd hate to ship it over to the united states for an issue with one piston, shipping alone is $1200.00 US. please help havent got a clue

hi id like an opinion from the experts, here'e my problem. I own a 1996 series 2 skyline with forged pistons, methanol injection, custom plenum, gtr fuel pump, garrett gt3076r on custom manifold, aem fic, stock injectors , external wastegate set to 10psi. about two months ago i came across a "swat" ecu from an r32 gtr and decided to give it a try. members on the forum advised me of the necessary conversion to make the ecu work ( add additional o2, additional maf, air temp sensor, disconnect vct.), the car ran fine after adjusting the cold start, 12psi by about 3200rpm and with the motor reving to 8500rpm i have about 5000rpm of boost. the car feels great on the street, but i went to the local tracks here in Nassau Bahamas and my best time after 5 runs was a 9.4 in the 1/8 mile on 10psi. With my stock ecu I run a consistant 9.1 with the same psi. I race on maxis va 1 street tires nothing special so i expect alot of wheel spin. I think however with the more agressive time curve in the "swat" ecu I should have lowered my elapsed time. the car has alot of power down low, so i started to attribute the lower ET to wheel spin, but whilse racing a stock series one skyline on 14psi ( stock ecu, stock turbo) i noticed he was able to pull away from in third gear. after abit of seat time today, i realized the car looses power above 6000rpm, any opinions on what could contribute to the loss in power. the afr are consistantly around 12.2 and the boost is holding so i dont believe its a leak problem, the only thing off is the power. any ideas

does anyone know how much volts stock gtr maf's send to the ecu at idle

thanks

i was going to use the aem fic for the remap as it allows you to create an ignition and fuel map,

hi i need advice on installing a r32 gtr ecu in an r33 gts, my power goals are around 400 whp with the following mods, built rb25det gtr 440 injectors gt3076r high mount custom intake plenum aem fic i wanted to swoop the ecu, because i figure the gtr ecu would have a better timing & fuel curve. The gtr also revs to 8100 allows me to shift abit higher. please dont suggest a power fc, no one in my country can tune them, everyone uses aem products but i cant afford and aem ems right now

hi i need advice on installing a r32 gtr ecu in an r33 gts, my power goals are around 400 whp with the following mods, built rb25det gtr 440 injectors gt3076r high mount custom intake plenum aem fic i wanted to swoop the ecu, because i figure the gtr ecu would have a better timing & fuel curve. The gtr also revs to 8100 allows me to shift abit higher. please dont suggest a power fc, no one in my country can tune them, everyone uses aem products but i cant afford and aem ems right now.

the thing is i intend to run about 14 psi on pump gas with methanol, the turbo should be good for about 375 rwhp at that boost level, i plan to purchase an aem ems later when i switch to forged pistons to run more boost, its just not in the budget right now. my question is in theory, will may plan with regards to advancing timing from the cas and pulling it back from the aem fic work the methanol injection is also the reason i need to advance the timing to see any benefits from the methanol the following is a link to info on aem's fic http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=116

Im considering putting and aem fic computer on my rb25det with 550 injectors and a precision gt4067 bb turbo. I want to increase response by advancing the ignition timing from the cam angle sensor, as the aem fic only allows you to retard timing. My plan is to advance base timing to about 20 degrees off boost as the turbo is expected to start spooling around 3800 rmp with full boost around 5000 rpm. Im hoping that the off boost timing will help with response and power. oh and i also have methanol injection! does anyone see a problem with this plan, or any other suggestion that doesnt include buying a power fc!

I live in the bahamas and we have a relatively active drag racing seen here in Nassau, and unfortunately we go through alot of rb25det motors, it not uncommon to see 400 whp skylines,. recently though there has be a shortage of rb25det motors and when i blew 3 pistons a month back i decided to rebuild mine, i should mention that there are no proper shop here to blue print the motor so we just took it down replaced the pistons, retorqued the motor and dropped it back in. now i have a knock on start up, it last for about 2 seconds and then the motor runs fine, we have determined that the knock is a result of clearance issues, i have trashed the car around at 12 psi without any problems but want to increase the boost to 20 psi, just want to know if you well advised experts think its going to be a problem or will the knock get worse.