Entice

Zac's Guide for to Making a Solid Boot Floor R32 (Generally Applies to Any Car) In this guide I aim to show you, step by step, how to make a solid floor for the boot of your R32, or any car really. By the end of reading this I hope you will be inspired to do this for yourself. Please comment and ask questions. Also, post up some pictures of yours if you follow this guide. Materials / Tools - 1500x1200x12mm MDF - Stanley Knife or similar - Jigsaw - Masking Tape - Pencil / Eraser / Permanent Marker - Long and Short Ruler - Liquid Nails, Zero Nails or similar - Small scraps of wood - About 9 Screws (Roughly 2.5cm Tall) The first thing you need to do is decide what you will be doing about your spare wheel. That is, will you keep it or ditch it? It is quite common to remove it as to lower the overall weight of your car. The stock Japanese wheel weighs 14kg so it is up to you. If you decide you don't want to keep your wheel you can skip steps 4 to 6 and cut it down the middle then follow from step 7 onwards. However, I recommend you follow the whole guide in case you decide you want to take the spare with you on a long journey; even if you don't plan on having it in daily. Okay, let's get to it! Step 1 Empty your boot. Take everything out including the carpet, the piece of thin wood covering the wheel and finally the wheel itself. Take the boot carpet, turn it upside down and lay it flat on your sheet of MDF. You will most likely notice that the side the bottom side is not even; there will be two raised sections on the padding. Take your Stanley knife and slash away at it while gently lifting the raised sections off. They come off nice and easy until you have a even surface. Step 2 Now we are going to trace the outline of the carpet onto the MDF. To prepare for this you want to make sure carpet is not going to move. I did this by putting 3 heavy tins of paint on in each of the corners. Next grab a pencil and use the following technique to trace all the way around the carpet. Put your hand on the edge of the carpet and lightly draw lines about as long as your hand. Try to keep your pencil at a 90° angle and go over each section 3 times before sliding your hand along. When you get to corners just go straight off the edge, don't try and turn the corner with the pencil. When you're done take the carpet off and put it somewhere safe and clean. Grab your permanent marker and go over your pencil lines; follow the middle of the three lines. Feel free to create your own line if it looks better or straighter. Use a ruler if there are any straight sections such as the back. You should have something that looks like this. Remember this in for an R32 boot. Step 3 It's time to cut it out, for now we want it all in one piece. Grab your jigsaw and start cutting. Don't worry too much about cutting everything too accurately; your lines aren't accurate and we won't see it anyway. However, cut on the outside of the line, you can always take more off later but you can't add any. Here's a tip: as you're cutting a long section off, if the MDF starts to dangle just place a small piece of wood in the cut as shown below and continue cutting. This saves needing someone to hold it and allows you to focus on cutting in a straight line. Keep going till it is all cut out and looks something like this: Step 4 Now it is time to get some measurements from your car. If you are doing this on a R32 then you may just use the measurements below and skip this step. It may be obvious how I got these measurements but this is a guide after all. Go to your boot with your ruler, a pencil and a piece of paper. Draw a very rough picture of your boot and mark the above lines. Now, measure from the flat edges how far it is till the floor starts to dip where the wheel goes. Be generous and give yourself room to get the wheel in and out. Step 5 Come back and mark out the lines on your cut out like below. Use a combination of rulers to make sure these lines are reasonably straight and accurate. Again, it isn't going to kill you if they aren't perfect. Throw the wheel on and make sure it fits, If it doesn't you've done something wrong; have another try; you only want to cut this out once. I actually marked the two side lines first then joined them at a 90° where the left line went off the MDF; this makes it easier to cut the square out as you will see later. Step 6 I decided to take the time to make sure everything was going alright. I put the carpet on the MDF to make sure it was cut to the right shape. I then wanted to check that my wheel square was marked in the right position so I grabbed some masking tape and marked where the lines were as below. Take it out to the car and put it in, feel around the lines and with any luck they will be on or very close to the dips of the wheel hole. If they are, good job! Almost there! Step 7 It's now time to get the jigsaw back out and cut it into sections. Cutting with the directions marked below will give you a nice clean finish; you can't turn 90° corners with a jigsaw. You will then have 3 pieces. You actually need to make another cut here. It Is possible to continue the blue line all the way up and get the same affect. I wanted to try it with 3 pieces but you need a 4 piece floor to get it in the boot. After cutting, clean it up a bit with some sand paper and take it out to trial fit in the boot. Step 8 Next we need to secure the floor and make all 4 sections level. We're going to do this by adding feet for it to stand on. Luckily there are enough sections of the floor that are equal and free of bumps etc to mount these feet. Once they're attached we'll screw the floor onto them so it can be removed later. Grab some scrap wood, you don't need much. Cut out 6 squares; it doesn't matter if they're the same length, but make sure they're the same height. Mine were 9.5mm high. Trial fit the feet with double-sided tape or blue tack; remember you can roll normal tape over itself to make it double sides. Positions such as the below will be good, move them around with the floor in until they are correct. We're going to be using liquid nails to hold these down. I used Bostik Zero Nails which is similar. Once they are correct repeat the following process for each foot, see the pictures to see what I'm doing. Get a nail, pen or ruler and sit it against the foot you're working on. This will allow us to take it off, put some glue on it then put it back in the same position. Put a decent amount of glue on each foot, more is better than less; you can clean off excess when you push them down. Use your finger to spread it out on the foot; it's not super glue so don't worry. Put it back in place and press down, grab your nail and remove the excess glue that came out the bottom. I recommend having a cloth present to wipe the nail and your finger on. When they're all stuck down you're going to have to leave it for about 24 hours to make sure it is nice and dry. Step 9 Now that your first set of feet are dry you can put the pieces back in without worry. For now I just did the front 3 as the back you have two options for securing that will be discussed in a moment. Trial fit these 3 and add more feet if you find it necessary; I added one to the left side small piece as shown above. You can also use scrap bits of thinner MDF, such as 9mm, to lift bits up until it is as perfect as you want it. Just use normal wood glue to stick these on. Now for the rear piece; as I said before you have two options: add more feet or modify the piece. This section of the boot is actually on an angle so putting feet there is a little awkward; though of course possible. I recommend you follow the next step instead.

Pics would be nice, yes I just got the suggestion of mounting the tweeter in the kick panel as this is close to the mid bass driver. only downside would be it getting kicked. anyone seen this before? Picture examples given were:

I was told on another forum that I should have the driver's door tweeter pointing at the passenger and the passenger door speaker pointing at me, the driver. which is what you are talking about I think. I suppose it would help with separation as you wouldn't hear your side's tweeter as much but you would get the other sides about the same time as the mid bass driver on your side and it would all work ideally. The white drawings on the above picture (my car when I got it) are where I think i'll position everything. The white boxes being under the seat (i dont know the proper name for these). I suppose I will also mount the amp under the passenger seat, or perhaps the driver seat as it gets moved less.

hi guys, thanks for the advice so far. it is type r splts i'm looking at getting so that is relevant, but logically it should be the same for any. i was told that if you mount it on the mirror triangles then the sound reflects off the glass and makes it sound rubbish, also if it is too far away from the mid bass driver it again sounds rubbish. do you have a pic of yours mounted niran? are they powered or just running off the head unit?

hey guys, just wondering if i can get opinions on where i should mount the tweeters of my front splits. im comfortable cutting holes to mount them "properly" but i dont know if i feel comfortable cutting my car lol. so just looking for opinions and hopefully pics of what you have done or would do. this is for a skyline r32 but this shouldnt matter to much. cheers p.s. ive had some advice from another forum but looking for some people with the same car and experience

probably did it on purpose. did he get out and blame you? on a serious note; its good that you have your dad and uncle to help you out with it, hope it comes out cleanly

Sold

Hey guys, Either tomorrow or Sunday I plan to have a go at installing my new GKTech dump and front pipe on my R32 GTS-t (RB20DET). I have a few questions. The first is how important is it that the bolts are at the right torque range? Obviously I'm not going to leave them loose, nor am I going to spend 5 minutes tightening one bolt really tight. Is it that crucial that I should go spend money to get a torque wrench of will what I can do with a normal socket wrench do? Secondly, does anyone know of any writeups or other bits of information that might make this a bit easier on me? I'm not afraid to get dirty or spend a while doing it. I like playing around and learning; and if everything goes wrong I'll just drag its arse down to a workshop and get them to finish it. Anything advice is appreciated, Cheers, Zac

how badly damaged are the brackets on the indicators? by the looks of it not too bad, do the screws still hold them? will you post? zac

Original photo (the blue parts are actually black )

Item: R32 Clear Indicators Age: New Condition: New Price: $79+ ($16 postage) To Fit: (What car) R32 GTS-t / GTS4 Location: Launceston, Tasmania Contact: Here or 0400809172 Comments:This item is listed on ebay HERE. I got these for my car but I'm not really feeling them anymore so I'm reselling them. I'm selling with bulbs. Looking for $79 upwards, postage is $16 to anywhere in Australia. PM here or ebay for any questions. Cheers, Zac

Nevermind haha

Hello, Cheese Table Duck Cheers, Zac

repost the pics please

i can't see the images is it just me or my work computer?