Lukas 33

ViPEC! If you have a 33 then I would NOT look past the v44 plug in board. For $1800 it comes with a built in 3bar (absolute) MAP sensor, intake air temp sensor (to correct for changes in air density with temperature) and drops straight in to the factory case. It has a MILLION functions and there is no need to upgrade your MAF. So when you get a PFC second hand for $1500 and buy a $200 Z32 MAF you are only saving $100 compared to getting the ViPEC brand new. However, they don't come with a hand controller, so if that is your thing then so be it. It does however come with a USB cord and software so you can link up the the ECU, where as a PFC will need FC pro or datalogit (Extra money) to plug your ECU into your laptop (also uses a serial port instead of usb). For what the V44 offers and the amount of support I have had so far from Ray, and Guilt Toy I know that I will not be looking anywhere else. Also, anyone that can tune a link can tune a vipec, so if you are looking for tuners, search for link tuners. As for the Haltech.....no EDIT: Forgot to mention that the ViPEC also has built in boost control and launch control

Yeh I am changing the oil real soon Before I go on the dyno

Ash, I think he wants the surface flat so they can get a better seal with the gaskets. Not to actually port them

Cheers thanks guys. The car was run for over two hours today and there is not a sign of milk under the cap any more Nice new fresh oil and some time without the catch can lines on and there is no milk at all Thanks again.

Anyone?

Vi-PEC ! It is absolutely amazing

Yeh that is what I am thinking. I pulled the catch can off, and have a small amount of hot water right could just near the 90 degree bend but none in the catch can. I just checked the oil cap again, there was hardly anything milky compared to last time, I was quite impressed. I have taken all of the catch can lines and everything off and think I will see how it goes with them off, will help get rid of it a little quicker I guess. What do call a "good service"? The car was not trashed in the slightest before it started to sit, it was babied and then just sat. Did a compression test. Results were between 120 and 130 for all of the cylinders, so no drastic drops. I am not sure how accurate the gauge is, but surely it cant be out 60 psi

Hey Guys, My car has been off the road for a while now while I have been fitting new exhaust etc etc I fired it up last night and I have white smoke coming out of the exhaust and milky crap under my oil cap. It isnt coming out straight away but away a tiny bit it starts. It isnt all of the time either, some times it will die down to next to nothing (this is all at idle). There is no milk in the sump. Checked the dipstick - no milk. There is no milkshake in my radiator, only coolant and water. I have checked the lowest part of my cooler piping, there is no oil (thought it might be the turbo seal). I have my PCV blocked with my covers vented to a catch can. My mods list is as follows: RB25/30 Type A poncams Wiseco Pistons Stock Rods JPC Stainless manifold PSR 45mm Wastegate GT35R 0.82 3.5" Turbo back exhaust Front facing plenum from dahtone racing Front Mount Vipec V44 plug in Techedge 2j1 WO2 Bosch 044 with 3L surge tank Nismo 740cc Inj Splitfire Coil Packs Am using the shittest oil known to man for now, didnt want to put the better oil in until I have sorted the overfueling. 20w - 50 oil. I have some fully synthetic 10w - 40 oil to go in. Please help PLEASE Sitting in the car now with the laptop waiting to go

HAHAHA!!! That's all I need to hear

Hey sorry this sold the day after I started the thread. HG, FPR sold

Good luck man

Does anyone know how the nitto rods compare?

Ok if back tracking gets u to the fuse box,forward trace it then :| See what it ACTUALLY goes to. Yes they can both be removed and taken out of the engine bay.

hahaha yeh it is a little bit more complex :S I was (and still am not) sure if the vipec ECU will accept a momentarily digital input to trigger high and low boost maps or whether it had to be constant 12V+. So I just thought I would fiddle around with that over the weekend until I could contact ray or someone. Thought I would just share what I came up with. Just in case someone is as bored/retarded as I am Guess this sort of circuit could be used in some other application in the car maybe. Yeh it will all be back to front if someone sneakily pushes the button on the boost controller :| Also a small update: I removed the resister from the "final" circuit as the resister was being a thieving bitch and stealing all of the power from the cap that was meant to go through the relay coil. So only use the resister if you only want the momentary switch to happen when constant 12V is supplied (Like the second circuit image I put up). After I have contacted one of the vipec guys tomorrow and found out if the ecu will do momentary switching or not I will decide whether or not I will experiment with different size capacitors. NOTE: the 300uF works fine for the second circuit. I only want to try different capacitors for the final circuit. Dont suppose you happen to know if the vipec takes momentary inputs by any chance?

The same set up as Z32? So therefore the same as R33? So no special brackets would be needed?

Ok little bit of an update on my little circuit I drew up. I have modified the circuit so that I run a small resister in parallel with the capacitor or else it will not drain the power from the capacitor and the coil in the relay will only switch once until you wait for a long time for the power in the capacitor to drain. So I soldered a small resistor in there as the picture below shows (1st Pic). This circuit has a little issue at the moment though. It will momentarily earth the 5V but it will only do it when I turn the switch on, it wont do it when I turn the switch off. I think I can get around this by putting in a little single pole double throw relay. So when I am not sending 12V+ to the ECU the +ve side of the CAP is connected to ground and when I send the 12V+ to the ECU the relay sends the +ve side of the CAP the 12V+ (therefore charging the cap). This next circuit is also attached (2nd Pic). This is different to the other circuit because when the 12V+ isnt going to the ECU the +ve side of the capacitor is then earthed. So when I turn the power off, the capacitor is earthed and the discharge of energy should momentarily earth the 5V from the EBC again. In summary it SHOULD trigger to hi boost when I send a constant 12V and then when I turn it off it should trigger low boost mode. In theory anyway. Will find out when I go pick up a SPDT relay. EDIT: I am using a 16V 330uF capacitor

Ah ok, I thought he meant the mechanic unplugged the IAC while the car was still warming up. Have you yourself tried unplugging the IAC while the car is warming up or did you just take the mechanics word for it?

yeh thats those. Check the CAS like phil said first, coz that is ALWAYS a problem If he said he has removed the idle plug and it had zero affect on the idle then you may want to see why. Take the plug off and put your multimeter on it and check for any signal.

Idle air valve and Auxiliary air valve are at the back of the plenum. The brown and the purple plugs. Cant remember which is which but those are the ones you want to be looking at.

I know its an old post but I figured someone should answer it. There should be wire which is just bare that will go around the outside of the white and red wire. This acts as shielding. I think the red one should be your 5V and the shielding should be the ground

Hey I know this is an old thread but I thought I would bump it up. I am putting in a 12V basic ON OFF switch for my ECU so when the ECU gets 12V it is in high boost mode and when it doesn't see the 12V it is in low boost. I am using my profec B spec II as a boost gauge only and would like it to switch between high and low along with the ECU so the warning levels for high and low change. I know people have said you cant use an ON OFF switch to do this but I think this little circuit should work. I will go and grab a capacitor some time today in between pretending to study math and see how it goes. Relay is just your basic 12V 4 prong relay from jaycar for $4. Not 100% sure on the size of the capacitor yet. Sorry if you don't understand my drawing

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Hey man, Thanks heaps for the write up. Just installed new dash lights and aircon lights then and this made it a breeze. Cant thank you enough man. Lukas PS Check out that hand action. All the ladies wanna piece o' that? Note the sticker underneath saying Super "Quick", its the Blight guarantee.

Yeh I didn't mind the fluid mechanics I did. Was a slight pain in the ass but it wasnt too complex. You are 100% right about needing to know more about fluids then just chucking in some air in and pushing run. What exactly did you study? I dont think we have a CFD option in my degree at all, hence why I am just tinkering on the side. I deal a ridiculous amount with fluids in chemical engineering with liquid vapour equilibrium, polarity, viscosity, specific volumes and how pressure, temperature, volume, work, and heat transfer affect a system dynamically. But we havent gone too in depth into the fluid mechanics though sadly, that is more of the mechanical engineering side of things. As for a specialty skill that does sound like a good idea, although I am not 100% sure how much that would be used around here in the mining industry. If I managed to get work with a petrochemical company then Im sure they would love me for it. I guess CFD would definitely be a little notch on my resume.

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