rotort

yes cas has been off recenlty just timing belt done, i think the timing is out 1 tooth because its near full adjust on cas to be on 15d tdc can restard more and omly advance to about 10d. so ye its off center, and es im using the inductive feed for the timing light

This is an expression of interest as I am thinking of selling my wheels, will only sell if someone is interested. They are 17x8 + 29 and 17x9 +38 (i think the offsets are right il correct tomorrow if wrong) 3 piece alloy wheels. as you can see in the pics they have polished rim, with silver centres, made in 98, still have original stickers on spokes and on inside with build date and specs. have never had any issues with the rims leaking 3 in top condition, 1 has 1 inch long curb mark and some time in the passed has had one of the stud holes drilled out, fortunately they have 5x114.3 pattern twice, so still perfect for 5 studs Will be sold with out tyres, and il give a really good wash etc etc so they fresh for new home. Looking for something in the vacinity of $1400 or ono or swap for other nice rims in 17inch selling cos i want to get something that I can drift on with out worrying about the wheel Please PM or email [email protected]

so what are you saying, my 15 d btdt might be 7.5?

boost leak caome out ok, blocked the intake, used shroeder valve to pump 7.5 psi of pressure into system, no leaks other than dipstick no question what fuel pressure should a rb0 det run on full load?

timing with a timing light, 15d btdc Im sure theres no air leaks, and boost gauge reads from plenum, reading 8psi, so its deffinitly getting the air

hey pete so your saying with throttle body closed put the compressor into the intake and see if air escapes? will give i a go thanks

RB20det, idles perfect free revs fine, drives fine below 2000rpm ish, as soon as any positive boost pressure it wont rev, tuebo spools like crazy but engine cant process the air, pretty convinced it not enough fuel, have checked fuel pressure, has 30psi on key on not running, with same 30psi on idle with reg vacuum line off, as to factory settings Have checked pump, has 12v all the time, i thought it would have 6 and 12v but its got 12 after prime on ignition on. doesnt appear to be any air leak, air flow sensor is connected, if it wasnt it wouldnt run anyway. timing is perfect, 15 dbtdc plugs are deffinitly reading lean! but not to bad tps is adjusted and reading .59v and 4.35v on WOT, couldnt get it any better im thinking its the fuel pump gonna chuck a walbro in it as was going to any way, and a permanent fuel pressure gave. any one got any ideas for me, i have a spare ignition module and CAS so can change those as well. its odd tho because fre reving at as low s 1500 rpm it starts to spool to boost, seems like there is excesive load on something,

hey guys can any one helpme i nee to know the sze of the bellhousing bolts for an rb20det, so i can have some ready for my new engine to go on the stand thanks monster

hey guys can any one tell me the size of the bellhousing bolts for rb20det so i can have some ready for delivery of my new engine to go on engine stand? thanks martin

wtd, rb20det long motor only All i need is the sump to cam covers complete internal engine in good condition no external accessories needed as its just to replace an engine woth blown head gasket. please email on [email protected] thanks alot martin

correct me if im wrong and this is just a stab in the dark, but is matt simpson from Predator Motorsports in slacks creek qld?

try this one on for size a rover 3.5 litre v8 with a supercharger on top, transaxle auto box modded to change only when manually told to do so, bolted into the back of a roll caged, custom suspension, lengthened wheel base, wide body, on formula ford race tyres, suzuki mighty boy ute does 10s on the strip if it was allowed, wins its class in street sprints and hill climbs currently goiing through a life changing experience but not finished yet,

an easy quick test to c if it the clutch etc when not running put it in gear, push clutch down then push the car forward,raise the clutch if it stops the car then its in gear, so u know the mechanism is working, which means its in the clutch its self