Nigel Nichols
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Hi Nigel, your post was awesome but I was wondering if you could help me with my specific question. Below is your post.
Hey guys.
Skyline alternators is something I have a lot to do with because I rebuld/refurbish them as a hobby from home.
I am only interested in rebuilding the Hitachi units. Here is some examples of my rebuilds.
http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/Alt.htm
A bit of info on alternators.
All Jap R31, R32 and R33 Skylines use the Hitachi or Mitsi built alternators.They are all internal cooling fan type. R31 Aussie/NZ market use a Hitachi outside fan type or Bosch Internal fan type.
Physical fittment to the engine block they are all interchangable. Adjuster bracket, belt alignment are all matched. Wiring wise the outside fan Hitachi from Aussie R31's are different. All the others including the Bosch is the same. Some R33 Skylines use a 8mm BAT terminal, the rest have 6mm BAT terminal. Easy to sort.
The earth terminal (5mm) and the main two pin ignition/dash light plug are all the same except for (again) the Hitachi outside fan unit found on the Aussie R31's.
Some have a smaller belt pulley (69mm versus 73mm on other units). If your engine is to do a lot or high rpm work then the larger alt pulley is better as it will help avoid over reving the alternator when its not necessary.
If the alternator has a Hitachi number starting with LR170 it is a 70amp unit. LR180 are 80amp and LR190 are 90amp. The Bosch units found on Aussie R31's RB30's are 110amp.
No alternator should be running at its max amp output during normal operation. If it is it's not spec'd right for the job and will give up the ghost sooner than it should. No alt should be operating at more than 50% its max output rating. If you are going to have lots of high power drawing items running, air con, high wattage headlights, spots, or big sound systems then you are better to go for the 90amp plus units.
I have found that internal parts ARE available for "some" of the units. Don't even consider buying the parts from a sparky or Nissan. I recently priced a Voltage Regulator for a Hitachi built alternator for a RB20DET R32 Skyline. $153 from sparky and ....wait for it..... $675 from Nissan ex Japan. I can't buy parts wholesale as I'm not a register sparky.
However Ebay USA comes to the rescue. Brand new regulator.... $35 US. I recently ordered one and a rectifier and a slip ring to complete two other alts. Buy the number of item the seller has sold (over 18000) and the positive feedback from these sales they are quality parts. He is a surplus parts dealer.
Nigel
Can you tell me what Bosch 110 amp alternator you were talking about. Would it fit on my bnr32dett?
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RB30DE in a R32 4 Door
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Story goes: quote " same speed as the car next to me (so he couldn't get past), about 70km/h, in a 70 zone..." unquote I won't say you deserved what eventually happened because you didn't. However as you stated you were using you car as a block (so he couldn't get past). You knew it and so did he. The whole issue got started from there. Had you eased over and let him go, it would have stopped there for you. Sorry for your damage, but "you" could have avoided it. Nigel
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Any Onw Made There Own Inlet Plenum?
Nigel Nichols replied to solheim's topic in Forced Induction Performance
I did mine for a RB30DE. http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/P...take/Plenum.htm Nigel -
What Rare/unusual Parts Does Your Car Have?
Nigel Nichols replied to MikeRWK's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Both my R32 and R33 have the electric front air dam that drops down from under the front bumper. The R32 is wired to be down at all times unless I need to lift it to gain ground clearance a bad driveway etc. I will set the R33 one up in the same manor Nigel -
I have used a RB25DE "auto" ecu to run a RB30DE engine in a R32 factory 5 speed manual. No issues what so ever. In fact it seems the ecu still knows when I select any gear as the engine RPMs ramps up 200 rpms as would to carry the load of the original auto tranny going into gear. So that means the ECU is still receiving feedback from the manual gearbox in my case. I haven't tried to see what errors code I get, still might get the 54 as you do but by all accounts there is no issue running the auto ecu on a manual. Nigel
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Nissan FAST says it is definitely a 31036-21U00 Control Unit-Shift for RB25DET 4 speed auto. Basically the auto tranny ECU I think someone else already said auto ecu Nigel
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Do you mean you see the rev counter need jump out of the corner of your eye. Is the engine actually reving up as well or just the needle on the counter dial jumping about. Nigel
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Nissan FAST show a different part number for the GTR one versus the GTS to GTS25DET. Can't tell what is different about it sorry. Might have to takes your with you and compare the GTS one. Nigel
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There are some spare parts regulators available. What is the part number of your alternator. I'll see what I have got. http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/Alt.htm Nigel
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Rb25det To De Compression
Nigel Nichols replied to kyriako's topic in Naturally Aspirated Performance
I think you will find that if you used the pistons out of the RB25DE it will raise the compression. My understanding is the DE pistons have a large dome than the DET's but do some research to confirm. I used the RB25DE pistions in my RB30DE rather than the 30 pistons to gain higher compression. Here in NZ we are not effected by such things as removing a turbo since it is reducing the engine output. I don't understand why the aussie authorities have an issue with reducing engine output. Nigel -
I think for some people its not about owning any kind of car to satisfy themselves but are more concerned about what other people think of it. Its other peoples opinion that count. For some folks if it doesn't have a turbo they give it no time. Usually the first question they ask "How fast does your car go bro?" because going fast is what counts to them, makes me a bigger man, or something like that. I have had a RB30DE in my R32 for some time now and when I'm asked what engine my car is running (bare in ming its is a GTS so should have RB20DE) and I tell them its RB30DE they immediately ask to have a look and always offer their concrats to me for doing something different. They know it will hold its own for along side a a mild tuned RB20DET and they also know it would loose ground against a RB25DET. Even those that are turbo fans offer me the thumbs up becasue they respect that its something different. I have often mention turboing it and they say no, leave it as it is. I would still own a Autech R32 (might manual convert it though). I wouldn't be going across the street just to tell someone about it, but if they ask and want to see I bet most would offer the respect for being different. Nigel
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Ah sorry not had the 23100-70T17 apart. Mostly I rebuild the Hitachi units. The small rear bearing is the most difficult to get off. I grind the outer bearing ring to allow all the balls to drop out and the outer ring falls off then just use a linish belt to grind away the inner ball race until it loosens and slides off. There is not much room to get a puller around it. By all accounts the front bearing is a slide fit both on the shaft and in the end cover. Just note the bearing numbers beofre you remove them, any bearing dealer handles them, not just sparkies. Nigel
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The whistling could be the belt slipping. Undo the lock-block bolt and turn the tensioner bolt a couple of turns. See if that helps. Maybe also the bearings are done with life. They can be replaced. Brushes shouldn't make it whistle and yes they can be replaced. I rebuild them for fun so heres some info http://www4.wave.co.nz/~lakewood/Skyline/Alt.htm Yours can be serviced. Nigel
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Once you have tightened the tensioner bolt just tighten the lock block bolt. Just make it hand tight. No need to over do it with a 25 foot torsion bar. The bottom main pivot bolt only needs to be reasonably tight. The belt squealed when the engine was cold until the belt warmed a bit and gripped better. Nigel