Mister25t

There is a bronze bush behind that seal. I found the part number online somewhere and was able to order one from Nissan but it took so long to come from Japan I ended just knocking the old one back in. I was rebuilding the box but the bush was not worn anyway. If you are unable to source one I'm sure most engineering places should be able to turn one up for you. Maybe remove the tailshaft and see how the sealing surface on the slip joint/yoke looks before doing anything else. If that is damaged or worn it could be causing the leak.

Choice, been watching out for an update on this. The manifold is looking nice all ceramic coated. Looks really tidy from what I can see. Very clean job on the wastegate inlet off the turbine housing too. Have seen some butcherous jobs on those before. Haha, that side of the engine bay is going to be packed as when it's all assembled. Glad you are still working on this. It's been a while in the making but I'm sure it'll be worth it as soon as you can give it that first squirt eh. Bring on the chubby ass power curve.

As far as I know the pull type slave actually pushes the fork in the other direction (from rear towards the front meaning the fork pulls the clutch to release and doesn't push). So the slave cylinder is mounted at the rear of the hole that the fork protrudes from. It uses different holes to bolt up, possibly already blanked bosses present on non pull type boxes? Looks to me like the R34 clutch line would have to be longer. Going by the picture on Just Jap it looks like the thread is on on the rear side of that too.

Can't imagine them using a different sized thread. I think the R34 GTT is pull-type clutch so the length would probably be different as the slave cylinder goes on the other side of the clutch fork hole. http://justjap.com/store/images/P/30620-12U0A.jpg

End up doing anything else with this? Still interested

I don't know what the auto spigot is like but when I replaced my manual spigot bush I just wound a big thread cutting tap into it until it bit and spun it then ripped the sucker out.

Man that thing is wicked! 1 BAR free revving, haha must be hitting load points its never even been close to before. It'll be interesting to see what its like after the tune Got to get me one of those twin screws.

By the way, did you end up setting up the electric power steering pump? Searched the thread and couldn't see anything on it.

Awesome work. Engine bay is certainly packed with extra gear You must be itchin' for that drive. Be good to see this going, what ecu is it currently running?

Hows it going man? Listening to your mean as belt whine yet?

Yeah I used the R32 GTR manual to rebuild my 25T box. Printed off the 40 odd pages and it made it a fairly straight forward procedure. Just finding pullers for the fifth and reverse gears is the hardest part. Have saved it into a separate pdf. Might be handy... Skyline_Manual_Transmission_Manual.pdf

Its similar to the brake light switch on the brake pedal. My R33 has one too. My guess is it has something to do with idle control?

Nice looking exhaust. Getting close to being done now. Going to be awesome to see how it performs and sounds! No cat, is it going back on the road?

I beadblasted the cones on the gears when I did mine, seems to shift nicer now but the clutch was rooted beforehand so hard to say...

Yeah the GTR diff is meant to be pretty good if you fit the Nismo friction plate kits as I've read on here. The GTST diff/driveshaft flange should bolt onto the GTR diff and then the GTST tailshaft would fit up. If you use the GTR hubs then your shocks won't fit though because the GTR shocks have a fork set up on the lower end instead of the GTST eyelet style. Maybe you could use the GTST hubs with GTR axle bearings to suit the bigger half shafts? This is purely speculation on my part. I'm quite interested in that idea as I currently have a whole GTR rear subframe and diff etc sitting next to my R33 GTST.

I doubt they would have fallen out, the manifold expanding with heat cycles and cooling off would have stressed them and snapped them off, especially the end two. They also normally break at the radius of the shorter thread (the part inside the head) so there doesn't tend to be much left sticking out. Sounds like the manifold is going to need a surface grind too. I'm guessing its a bit banana-ish. Sorry I can't give you better news, if you are good with a drill you could get them out yourself but it may be a good idea to leave it to a pro. Studs are M10x1.25 i think.

Haha good stuff! Perkies all the way

Awesome work, really interested in the outcome. Low down power should be wicked. Your fab work looks very well done, thanks for documenting the process. I think you could have the throttle after the charger as long as the bypass opens up and stops the outlet pressure from spiking on throttle closure and lets it freewheel when you are at idle or cruising. I'm no expert though. Did they say why the throttle should be in front?

No, it is a factory option. Not all of them have it.

Hi there, Can someone help me out with part numbers for: R33 GTR bonnet hinges; left and right. R33 GTR bonnet catch/upright. R33 GTR guard raiser brackets; left and right. Having a bit of trouble finding these locally so am looking at sourcing them from Japan. Thanks, Rob.

Yup.

Hi there, I'm after the guard raisers, bonnet hinges and bonnet catch/upright off a R33 GTR. (One guess on what I'm doing). Shipped to New Zealand, my car is white but i'm not fussed on colour. Would be super grateful if anyone could help me out. I'm going to make up some spacers for now but would prefer the real parts. Cheers, Rob.

I took off my cooler piping, loosened the engine mounts a bit and removed the gearbox crossmember. This allowed me to have a mate tilt the back of the gearbox and engine downwards slightly to give more room to get at the bolt. (If your gearbox still has oil in it you'll want to plug up the back or it will piss out) I used 3 or 4 long extensions and a universal right up by the socket to crack the bolt off.

Any engineering shop with a big enough lathe could do this for you. If there is plenty of meat in there it should be sweet as.

My RB25 sender fouled by bugger all. I think it was slightly bent at the thread, maybe it took a knock from something?? I could have got a die grinder in there and taken some material off the block, it didn't look like it would take much but it was easier to just get the $1 fitting. I would suggest just trying your sender straight in the block and if its not going to happen grab an adaptor fitting.