rnbguy

s2 ecu wont just plug into an s1

no need to go for the happy "bin the ecu" suggestion made, just get the car on a dyno to test afr's its like $80 or something to do one run.

bump looking again... either a rb25det s1 ecu or a rb20 chip/rom/map tunned for a rb25det

hi mate, pmd you about ecu, still selling?

fixed i changed the boss kit to ON177 and it works like a charm

thanx for the tips guys, grounding that black wire pictured above fixed the issue 21 from comming back up and at the same time fixed the not so well result above of the Earth to pin 10.... I'll still be curious why the ecu injectors are pointing to different points on the ignitor.

okay here are the pictures requested.. i appreciate the help... i take it the only thing that makes this kit hicas compatible is the two holes in it.... so am i supposed to make sure the square part on my steering column slides into one of those holes and the long clip slides into the other? also what are the 4 pins inside that square part on my steering columb? (i know 1 is power for the horn)

its cool figured out i just need a new hicas boss kit

all good i figured out ill just change the boss kit, now gotta find a hicas compatible boss kit...

i found a momo wheel now i need a boss kit hicas comp.

thanx for clearing that up, ive noticed a few typos in the manual because that pattern was written to be for a rb25det.... so why does the guide say ecu pin 1 (inj 1) is supposed to goto pin 2 on the ignitor (im guessing meaning cyl 2) when in mine actually ends up ecu 1 goes to ignitor 1? and same with the rest mentioned above?

nice ill do it tonight, also out of curiousity is it normal those connectors on my ignitor dont match the values given by the guide...

im located in sydney looking for a steering wheel to fit my r33 s1, must have boss hicas kit. pick up only

u rekon? if so can anyone tell by looking at that pic if theres a hicas boss kit in there, because if i need to replace this i need to know what to ask for...

no probs i was confused where that came from =/

i bolted my momo steering wheel on but it seems to just spin without the tyres spinning ? makes a ticking noise like its trying to bite the teeth

hi guys i was turning my wheel the other day with the battery disconnected so i can line up the wheels to start the car up (for HICUS purpose)... but then i pushed hard and the wheel just spun, so now it doesnt turn the car wheels anymore it just spins making a ticking noise like its spinning around teeth. Ive taken it apart and this is what i have, can anyone assist in finding how to restore this wheel? thanx guys

Hi Guys, My car is running fine but id love to get no error codes. Just because we can... So im trying to fix this error code 21 (ignition system). Refering to the guide and performing its required tests here are my results... can anyone help me come to a clear conclusion? This could be a good reference for future skyline riders who get this error. Just Before i begin ive noticed in the skyline manual it says the ignitor harness should be 1,2,3,4,5,6,G ... however mine is 1,2,3,G,4,5,6 I hope thats normal in australian skylines or has the previous owner done something custom. TEST ONE - Remove each connector to the coils/spark plugs to see if rev changes. This test passed, all connectors made an impact to rpms. TEST TWO - On the Ignitor harness check continuity between terminal E and Earth. Passed. TEST THREE - Test continuity between certain ecu terminals and ignitor connectors. CONFUSED:::: Why are these results ended up this way, is this normal??Could this be a cause??? Check ECU terminal ->(conects to)-> Ignitor Terminal | RESULT: ECU TERMINAL ->(was actually connected to)-> Ignitor Terminal 1 -> 2 | 1 -> 1 (good connection) 12 ->2 | 12 -> 5 (good connection) 3 -> 3 | 3 -> 3 (good connection) 13 -> 4 | 13 -> 6 (good connection) 2 -> 5 | 2 -> 2 (good connection) 11 -> 6 | 11 -> 4 (good connection) 10 -> E | 10 -> E (flakey, connection wasnt showing 100% continuity) 20 -> E | 10 -> E (good connection) CONCLUSION: ?? TEST FOUR: Check voltages of ecu terminals below with a group point on idle it is expected to be aprox 0.2V~0.3V. Terminals: 1,2,3,11,12,13 all showed 0.07V~0.08V on idle. Ive then also noted this wire loose which seems to be sticking out of the the connection leading to the furthest (from front of car) spark plug. I also noticed the wire below (black/purlple) just loops,is that normal?: So is anyone able to help on this one?

dummer i just got the map and wanted to post it up here tonight but my rom burner just got crushed on my last move from house to house, does anyone in sydney have a rom burner that could read this chip and post it online?

thanx for the reply that is very helpful... I understand the issue with VVT no longer being engaged with a rb20 ecu in a rb25, but with the TPS switch issue ive never heard this one before, what limitation does it put on running a rb20 ecu in a rb25 and there have been many reporting of it being done, was there a modification that needed to be done in this transplant

nah because i was waiting for a rb25det basemap before i try run the rb25 with the ecu, why?

ive tunned basic stuff like emanage (fuel/timing) and apexi with wideband etc so i dont really wanna pay someone to do a street tune which to me has never been that hard.. i'll 100% post all maps i come with here, ive also ordered the ebay map which ill post here soon too so people can comment on the tune, instead of people just saying "ebay is sh*t" blindly without looking at the tunes =/ (which never made sense to me, yet people go and buy maps of others that are tunned for similar setups...)

fair enough most people here would rather make money then help others, for those who want the help here is a stock rb25det map and adr file: http://www.tangentrix.com/forums/viewtopic...e0ae70a358a8a3b

no one? i tried contacting toshi and dr drift for even a basemap for an rb25 with no luck, surely someone has a rom file here with a basemap i can burn to my rb20 ecu to make sure ecu works before tunning? ...or is it money talks =/

does it hurt to always have it on? would be easier for me to ground the wire instead of getting a rpm switch (for a rb20 ecu install in a rb25)... if so would it be too much to ask on which wire need to be grounded?