
gts4diehard
Members-
Posts
391 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
100%
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Media Demo
Store
Everything posted by gts4diehard
-
Hi guys I've seen some interesting stuff relating to the next GTRs looks on this site but does anyone know if Nissan has the balls to bring the GTR in itself or will it be grey imports still... I went to the Brisbane car show a couple of weeks ago and asked the Nissan guys if they were going to bring in the GTR when it comes out and they said NO.[/SIZE] I dont know how qualified they were to give an answer, they might have been from Nissan HQ or just been Nissan salesmen from Brisi. Does anyone else have any idea??? because it sure seems like Nissan doesn't have a clue... again. Stephen
-
try noltec in Sydney they maybe able to help, they do urethane subframe bushes for the R32's. Stephen
-
Look under the bonnet, on the drivers side will be the brake master cylinder attached to a brake booster ( a large round container - usually painted black) on the firewall, follow the brake pipes/lines to the other side of the engine bay, if there is another box connected to these pipes then this will be the abs unit. If it is a non-abs car the pipes will go from the master cylinder down to each wheel, 1 pipe to each front wheel and two pipes should head down by the back of the engine under the car to each of the back brakes - there will be no unit connected to the pipes before they reach the wheels. I hope this helps,
-
should have used 'rev limiter' instead of redline but car will hit 8k without a prob. I was coming out of left hander before this straight as hard as I could in 3rd gear. Keeping those corner speeds up helps alot of course when you hit the straights. car has rb20 det and 4wd which helps a bit plus is a bit lighter than a r33.
-
R32 GTS4 - 5spd manual: Clubman track 4th at the end of the front straight (~160km/h at the end)- braking at end of concrete curbing on pit exit. 3rd through the first long right hander (130-140km/h) 3rd on the short straight (up to 140km/h) 3rd through second long right hander (130km/h) 3rd next straight (up to 140km/h) 2nd in sharp right 180 deg (down to 60km/h) 2nd into 1st left and 3rd just before the 2nd left then 4th 3/4 way down the second main straight (150km/h-160km/hr) 3rd just before final righthand , down to 2nd at the final right hand 180 deg onto the main (front) straight. could have went faster thru 1st and 2nd long right hand corners with my old falkens but my new goodyear gsd3-f1s tyres were squirming their way out to the outer ripple strip. Tip - dont use these tyres on the track, too many exposed edges and flex in the tread, great on normal roads in the wet tho!, I wasnt going to hammer the car, but once you get going and hear that awsome RB engine note at full song its hard not to hang onto those gears!. Changing at about 6500-7000 rpm, way below the readline!...lol Stephen
-
hi, I was at the qld track day on tuesday and there was a guy with wiseco pistons in his gtr motor, running 1 bar ok. dont know if he goes on this forum or not. Stephen
-
hi, check the ecu codes, i think there are codes for the faults on abs unit.- there are for the r32s anyway Stephen
-
hi, thanks to the guys that organised the day, was a great day! had alot of fun, didn't break anything, brakes lasted well, tyres weren't as great as I hoped. The left hand front tyre took a hammering - might need to consider a shock upgrade/driver upgrade. I would not recommend the Goodyear GSD3-F1s for a track tyre, great in the wet on the road but a bit too much give when cornering at high speed on the track. If you havent been to a track day make sure you get out there and give it a go! Stephen
-
hi, afms can cause this, it happened to my car a while ago, joints in the afm can need resoldering,. my car kept cutting out on me, stalling at the lights. check the past threads for more details. another cause can be an alarm system, some alarms/mobilisers have relays inside them which switch the power to the fuel pump/ignition/starter and these can play up intermittently, my car also had this not so amusing problem, especially when car cuts out on freeway at 100kms/hr. just needed to replace relay and all fixed, not something that you can easily fix on the side of the road. Stephen
-
hi, it sounds like it is running in limp home mode, possibly the airflow meters, car will run on one airflow meter but if both afms die then it reverts to limp home mode. was it doing anything else strange before this happened? has anyone been working on the car prior to this happening and not connected something properly? Are you sure the computer hasnt been modified at all? have you checked the plugs that connect the afms to loom? hi CS_180, before you get a new afm try fixing it, youv'e nothing to lose if you plan to buy a new one, afms have a reputation of 'dry' solder joints, my afm on my '32 played up - car was stalling without warning - and i resoldered the pins that lead to the plug(under the afm lid), search the threads there have been a few in the past. Mine is still going 3 years later and no probs since, even showed fine on the nissan consult computer.
-
Hi, I just put Fulcrum super pro adj. castor rod bushes in my R32GTS4 (same size as a GTR) and they dont squeak at all. Stephen
-
replacing rear subframe bushes on R32 GTR
gts4diehard replied to 7heavn's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
hi, I just did this job on my R32 GTS4, and it is a large job, not that difficult but definitely time consuming. I bought another subframe removed the bushes and then put new bushes into it and then replaced the subframe on the car. I have just removed the bushes from the subframe and am planning on selling it. If you do the hard part by yourself and then have subframe fitted by mechanics(who know what they are doing) it is about $400-$500, to remove subframe from car, transfer the diff and suspension links over to new rebushed subframe, refit subframe and bleed the 4wd system. Up here in Brisbane they will charge you about $1000 to do the complete job + bushes. UAS has them for about $160 set of 4 noltec urethane bushes. You can do it by yourself but you need to be patient and careful. The job will take 10-12 hours. 4 hours to get bushes out and fit new ones. 1-2 hours to remove subframe, 2-3 hours to remove & fit suspension - it is much easier to fit bushes if subframe has nothing attached to it. 2-3 hours to refit subframe to car and hook everything up and bleed attessa. + a wheel alignment. It is the better solution than pineapples as they tie the subframe more securely to the car, apparently the urethane bushes will also negate some of the 4ws that the hicas does(it relies on the compliance of the bushes to help it steer the rear wheels) but it is much more expensive as earlier mentioned, I've heard that down in sydney some are charging about $1500 to do the job which is a bit excessive! My car feels much tighter now and I will be taking it to QLD raceway for a trackday on tuesday so I am expecting the car to handle a bit better. Stephen -
Found the following thread: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ght=castor+rods see post 4: from SK; the GTST has more caster than the GTR as it is limited due to the four wheel drive requirements. The upper suspension mounting points are in exactly the same positions on the chassis. So the only way Nissan could get the caster difference needed was to have different lower control arm inner mounting points between 2wd and 4wd. Hence the sub frame is different. The shocks, springs and stabiliser bars are the same physicaly, obviously the rates are different though. Sorry, from above I would say that it wont be ok. I know for sure that the castor rods are different, meaning that you more than likely need to do a lot of part swapping if it is possible at all. Stephen
-
R32 GTR front drive shaft joint boots...
gts4diehard replied to R32zilla's topic in General Maintenance
any decent drive shaft place should have the boots, I got mine for my GTS4 in Brisbane from the Australian CV joint centre - about 2 years~ ago they supplied and fitted the boots(inner & outers) to the driveshafts - I took into them for about $70. The driveshaft nut that holds hub is VERY tight and I had to hire a huge socket set so I could get the bugger loose. I dont know about any 'kits' - if you mean one where the driveshaft doesnt need to be removed, like the steering rack boot kits that you can get. Check the specs of the grease they use against what nissan recommends in the workshop manual to make sure it is high grade enough, it will probably be better than what was available in 1990~s but check while you're at it. You will have to put grease in one side yourself and fit one boot to diff, the other side just bolts up. Stephen -
hey if you want to get off the fine you would be more likely to do so if you can say you did it because it was safer to do so than remain completely in your lane. Say what you first brought up, thought there was an accident and slowed down and moved away from the roadside edge to take a more safe route. Then you can use the picture of the cop as it too looks like he has moved away from road edge over the centre of the lane because he's seen your father there and its the safest route because a pedestrian might step out in front. Try and take the 'its more safer route' rather than try and dodge the issue up. Of course you wont have much chance of convincing them that you were being 'safer' if say you have a total of 11 points, in that case I would just let it slide. Stephen
-
heaps of place stock these around $120 supplied by most, even pedders I think they are doing stock ones for around $75 pair+fitting, fulcrum-super pro, whiteline etc. Stephen
-
hi, check the plugs for the temp, one for the gauge and one for the computer, put the plugs on two or three times just to make sure the contacts are good, the computer prob thinks the temp is diff to what it really is. These sensors/plugs are pretty old by now and more than likely wont be operating 100%. this is where i would start first. The plugs are located by thermostat/ top radiator hose on block. try starting it without using accelearator, if it wont start then open bonnet and wiggle plugs/ remove & replace plugs and try starting again. Stephen
-
Wheels and Tyres for GTR
gts4diehard replied to Nismo32R's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Been thinking about wider rears and narrower fronts on GTR with same circumference, I think it could be a potential problem at the very limits of traction. My understanding is that the attessa comes on when there are sufficient G-Forces to trigger it and when the rears loose traction. So if the rears are wider than the fronts then if the rears were to lose traction then this could be at much higher speeds than the computer expects and then the rate that the torque is transferred to the front wheels may not be quick enough to pull you back into line before anything nasty happens. may not be right and even if it were then the speeds would probably be much higher than you would ever be travelling. Probably more applicable to those with massive power increases in their gtrs whereby there might be a need for a more aggressive rate of torque transfer to the front. just thinking out loud... Stephen -
Wheels and Tyres for GTR
gts4diehard replied to Nismo32R's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Hi, I have a friend with a GTR with the Falken 451's and he's pretty happy with those tyres, handles very good, with around 300 hp at wheels. Stephen -
hi, heard about the following site. http://themotoroilsite.com maybe helpful... looks like its a bit religious tho, strange combo! Stephen
-
Wheels and Tyres for GTR
gts4diehard replied to Nismo32R's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Important thing is that overall circumference needs is the same, e.g. 205/55/16 is same circumference as 225/50/16. Easiest way to gaurantee this is too have the same tyres/rims all round but as long as the circumference is the same there should be no problem. so you need to check the tires dimensions, most tire brochures list the outside circumference so you just need to find tyres that fit the different rim sizes that are the same circumference. different outside circumferences front to rear = different rotational speeds = attessa computer putting drive to front wheels too often = WORN out transfer!!! Stephen -
anyone used RDA brake rotors
gts4diehard replied to gts4diehard's topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
cool, looks like they are worth a try. might even see how the slotted versions are. stephen -
anyone used RDA brake rotors
gts4diehard posted a topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
hi, looking to get some new brake discs for my R32 GTS4 and have seen some RDA rotors (std) for a price of $77 each (new) for front. Has anyone used RDA rotors before? from the size of the company and its stock I thought their products would have been more prominent in the market, everyone seems to stock DBA instead. I found one place so far that stocks RDA rotors in slacks creek, brisbane and the price above seems very good. Is it because they are using lower grade materials which will wear out more quickly or are they just more realistic than DBA in their pricing ? any feedback would be appreciated. Stephen -
Skyline Car Mats - Someone Please Identify
gts4diehard replied to boj01's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
they are R32 mats. I've got these in my R32 gts 4. Stephen