gts4diehard

check your afm, there will be a million posts on this subject here. It is one of the most common causes of the car stalling. It can be repaired (no gaurantees usually) if ...somewhere.. Stephen RB30 Powered these days...

rips on the skylines downunder site used to do the rb30 4wd conversion for about $12k nz a while back, so that gives an idea of what it will cost if you pay someone else to do it.

Technical Bulletin – 2004/5 – #5 Rotors & Drums Australia Pty Ltd EBC Brakes Australia Pty Ltd BEDDING IN OF PADS AND ROTORS When a vehicle has had both new rotors and new pads fitted there are two processes or objectives to getting the brake system to operate at optimal performance. Step 1 is heating the brake rotor and pads to transfer the pad material evenly onto the rotor face. Step 2 is maturing or cooking the pad to ensure that gasses are burnt out of the pad material and that resins in the pad material bind together. Step 1 & 2 involves performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad are heated steadily, to allow the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. The friction surface should be clear of all oils which are used to stop the rotor from rusting before being fitted to the motor vehicle. Whilst these will be burnt off, they risk transferring and possibly polluting the brake pad material and will definitely lead to a longer bedding in process. Whilst performing a series of brake applications to transfer the pad material, care should be taken to not come to a complete stop, as this can lead to the transfer of pad material unevenly on the disc at the point where the pad comes to rest on the friction surface. A typical program of ten brake applications from 80km down to 20km p/hour without any cool down in between would be sufficient. If it is noticeable that after 5-6 applications that the performance drops away, this means the resins and gasses have yet to be burnt or compressed, out of the pad material. For performance pad materials, a further two sequences of ten stops will be required after a cooling down period between each cycle, to ensure that the pads have reached the required higher operating temperature to allow for the pad material to transfer effectively. At all times during the bedding in process, care should be taken to not apply the brakes in a harsh manner or decelerate from high speeds, as this will corrupt the transfer of materials and lead to uneven material build up on the rotor surface, which in most instances will require machining to regain a flat rotor surface for optimal operation (Disc thickness vibration-DTV-which leads to brake judder or vibration-see RDA/EBC Bulletin #5). How will I know if they are bedded in? The two major visual indicators are disc rotor discoloration and machining marks on the friction surface of the disc rotor. 1) Disc rotor should have a slight bluish tint with a grey tint that indicates where the brake pads have come into contact with the rotor. Too much heat will cause the rotor face to be extremely blue and has been overcooked in the bedding in process. 2) If there is still a shine on the rotor surface, then not enough pad material, has been transferred. Once brakes have been bedded in, it is also important, to keep them that way. If any brake pad is used below its adherent operating temperature over a period of time it will slowly remove the transfer layer on the rotor surface. Standard and especially performance pads like to be driven a little more aggressively every now and then to maintain this pad material on the rotor friction surface. Similar in effect to taking a city based car on a country run every now and then and noticing the change in the exhaust tail pipe color, go from black to grey as it operates at a different temperature, to what it has become accustomed. Passive use of brakes over an extended period of time will in effect lead to “unbedded brakes”.

Try nissan they arent that expensive. about $25 each for rear GTR/GTS4 lower shock bushes (the bush that is pressed into hub), they had them in stock in brisbane two weeks ago. I doubt that gtst ones which are in the shock would be much more expensive.

Hi an update regarding this post. The car had the right subframe after all, but the bush 'eyes' are not always perfectly round so the guys who measured it up - got the wrong measure. I have removed the bushes from this subframe and the sizes are as they are supposed to be. Stephen

I had ultimates on my r32, they squeaked quite a bit. After I put in my RDa rotors they stopped squeaking. They used to squeak under light braking, ok under heavy braking. I think that bedding them in properly helped. The rda rotors had a bedding in guide, e.g. high performance pads - 3 sets of 10 of medium braking from 80 km/hr to 20 km/hr with a cool down period in between each set. This deposits a layer of pad material onto the rotor assisting braking. They also said that if you drive around a lot doing only light braking that this layer gets removed and you need to do the bedding in again. here is the tech doc...quite interesting Technical Bulletin – 2004/5 – #5 Rotors & Drums Australia Pty Ltd EBC Brakes Australia Pty Ltd BEDDING IN OF PADS AND ROTORS When a vehicle has had both new rotors and new pads fitted there are two processes or objectives to getting the brake system to operate at optimal performance. Step 1 is heating the brake rotor and pads to transfer the pad material evenly onto the rotor face. Step 2 is maturing or cooking the pad to ensure that gasses are burnt out of the pad material and that resins in the pad material bind together. Step 1 & 2 involves performing a series of stops, so that the brake rotor and pad are heated steadily, to allow the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction surface. The friction surface should be clear of all oils which are used to stop the rotor from rusting before being fitted to the motor vehicle. Whilst these will be burnt off, they risk transferring and possibly polluting the brake pad material and will definitely lead to a longer bedding in process. Whilst performing a series of brake applications to transfer the pad material, care should be taken to not come to a complete stop, as this can lead to the transfer of pad material unevenly on the disc at the point where the pad comes to rest on the friction surface. A typical program of ten brake applications from 80km down to 20km p/hour without any cool down in between would be sufficient. If it is noticeable that after 5-6 applications that the performance drops away, this means the resins and gasses have yet to be burnt or compressed, out of the pad material. For performance pad materials, a further two sequences of ten stops will be required after a cooling down period between each cycle, to ensure that the pads have reached the required higher operating temperature to allow for the pad material to transfer effectively. At all times during the bedding in process, care should be taken to not apply the brakes in a harsh manner or decelerate from high speeds, as this will corrupt the transfer of materials and lead to uneven material build up on the rotor surface, which in most instances will require machining to regain a flat rotor surface for optimal operation (Disc thickness vibration-DTV-which leads to brake judder or vibration-see RDA/EBC Bulletin #5). How will I know if they are bedded in? The two major visual indicators are disc rotor discoloration and machining marks on the friction surface of the disc rotor. 1) Disc rotor should have a slight bluish tint with a grey tint that indicates where the brake pads have come into contact with the rotor. Too much heat will cause the rotor face to be extremely blue and has been overcooked in the bedding in process. 2) If there is still a shine on the rotor surface, then not enough pad material, has been transferred. Once brakes have been bedded in, it is also important, to keep them that way. If any brake pad is used below its adherent operating temperature over a period of time it will slowly remove the transfer layer on the rotor surface. Standard and especially performance pads like to be driven a little more aggressively every now and then to maintain this pad material on the rotor friction surface. Similar in effect to taking a city based car on a country run every now and then and noticing the change in the exhaust tail pipe color, go from black to grey as it operates at a different temperature, to what it has become accustomed. Passive use of brakes over an extended period of time will in effect lead to “unbedded brakes”.

check out these guys, cresta australia at capalaba, jones rd. last time I was out there they had a R32 GTS4, lots of other goodies there too! whole cars sitting on racks on the walls, and front cuts etc.

brakes. have you bled the abs as well? there is a special sequence to bleed, can't remember it off hand, follow gtr workshop manual. if that fails get a pressure bleed done on system, this should force out any air hiding away. ticking noise at rear. could be hicas or attessa. check Attessa resovoir in right hand rear guard (remove small interior trim), should be done with ignition on, and level should be between marks. normally when you start car, the attessa pump should prime the system so that there is adequate pressure that can be applied to clutch packs for 4wd system when it is required. check power steering fluid levels, same fluid resovior used for front and rear steering racks -for R32s. maybe fuel pump is on way out?? is fuel pressure ok?

hi, did they do the bushes in the hubs also and the rear rack ends/tierods, if these are worn this will add a lot of wiggle to the rear end, jack up rear of car, support on stands and try to turn the rear wheels left to right by hand, there should be no movement at all! but more likely it will be your steering wheel, aftermarket wheels seem to cause a few probs with hicas as people dont align the pin properly.

hi, if relay doesnt fix abs unit, and you need some replacement bits, I have an abs unit which developed a leak around the cylinders. Rest of it is ok, you can have it for $40. Stephen

Hey, the GTR and gts 4 are definitely the same, not sure about gtsts. where abouts are you, I have a gts4 rear subframe sitting in my garage, it already has the cradle bushes removed, just needs some noltecs pushed in and you will have a 'nice tight rear end'. I am looking for $150. Stephen

R32 GTS4 Parts - same as for R32 GTR All Parts in Brisbane. I have sold my GTS4 so these parts are no longer required. Left Hand Headlight, perfect glass, one halogen bulb missing. $80 front Prop shaft (unis slightly notchy) $30 Front subframe $100 Rear Subframe $150 - cradle bushes removed. Front Hubs with curved wishbone link and upper arm. Bearings feel very good. No discs. Stone guard slightly bent.$150 pair. RB20DET injectors - uncleaned $120 for all 6. message me or reply to post. Stephen

hi, got a price on doing the Skyline 4 piston calipers the other day, not sure if s14 are 4 pistons but this is what I found out. Here is what I got quoted, $100 each 4 piston caliper for replacing seals etc, could be a little bit more, I'm not sure that they knew that the seal kit was $135, they said price depended on kit $$ as well. nissan parts - seal kit for two front calipers $135 brake caliper piston $113 each if they are stuffed, unlikely tho. scary prices for renewing std calipers, 8 x pistons $904 plus $135 for seal kit. I have had brake work done in past by Slacks creek brake and clutch, they do a pretty good job. They also do good prices on rotors(RDAs Fts for $75 ea.) and pads(bendix ultimates - fronts $90 set).

hi, a really easy check to do on rear end is to simply jack it up, support on stands and check each wheel for movement. Grab rear wheel at 1/4 to 3 loc (horizontal at hub centre) and try to turn the wheels(as the hicas would). If you get any movement at all the bushes are worn, most likely the rear rack components, and quite possibly most of the rear hub bushes. I have seen this in my own GTS4 and a friends GTR, the GTR had atleast 5mm of movement - just rocking wheel as above by hand, and now with new hub and rear arms you can feel NO movement at all. Of course it is not cheap, about $1000, if you remove hubs and get someone else to press bushes.PLus another $250 for hicas lock bar. Most of the 'wiggle' in the back end will be taken care of just replacing the bushes without the hicas lock bar.

try these guys they have good prices - www.horsepowerinabox.com.au, a mate got a turbo from them for his s13 last year, got a good price.

hey have you tried cresta australia out at capalaba they have most things.

are you sure input shaft bearing has gone... i thought mine had but pretty sure it just throwout bearing, press clutch 10mm in, if noise goes ->throwout bearing, if takes complete push of clutch for noise to go it will be your input shaft bearing... I got rda rotors for my gts4, the fronts were only $75 each new from Slack Creek Brake And Clutch - Brisbane, in case you havent heard about the RDAs, they work very well, even seen a track day and no probs. maybe the above can save you a few $$

Power Steering belt -Pitstop AY140-40945 Generic code: 4PK945 (4 means 4 ribbs, 945 is the length in mm)

Sorry engine is incomplete. head is off of engine- plenum separated, block is complete with pistons, front diff etc - no flywheel, exhaust or turbo. suitable for rebuilding and taking parts from. Engine has supposedly done 60000 kms. Stephen

Prices adjusted

hi, just an idea regarding turboing the V8, have you seen this before: http://www.ststurbo.com/f_a_q they mount the turbo at the back of the car! sounds strange but maybe it could work

prices reduced

re Alternators: from memory: if the volts in battery drops then the alternator ups the volts to get battery upto right level i.e. should be charging between 13- 14.4V, if current isnt amps aren't right then it drops the volts and puts more amps into the battery. i.e. you can have a battery showing 12v but it has no guts as it can't put out the amps. This probably explains why the alternator is putting out 14~v when car is cold, because the battery has just been drained from starting the car, and because cold temps load the battery more.

Theres a good chance that its the tensioner bearings, are you sure the noise is coming from the timing belt area? If you can you could try disconnecting the air con belt to eliminate that as a cause. And try disconnecting the other belts and seeing how the alternator and water pump bearing feel, they should not feel rough or rumbly... IN regard to tensioners, there are two down there, they could be showing their wear more now that the new belt is tight and putting more pressure against the tensioners. They will make a squealing type sound if worn. There are two, priced around $75 each, they should always be checked for wear when you replace a timing belt. Unfortunately the labour is going to cost around the same as fitting a belt as you have to remove the belt to do it. P.S. make sure you check this properly, they say that the bolts that hold the tensioners have a habit of breaking - causing very bad things to happen to your engine - and the only way I could see this happening is if the tensioners seize or something.

Hey mate, I have a R32 GTS4 motor sitting in my garage, it has the head off of it, comes with front diff, basically consists of: block with pistons in it head complete plenum coilpack and injectors I am in Brisbane also. I am moving interstate in a few weeks so I want it gone. I have it advertised in the forsale section but am quite neg on that price. pm me if you are interested. Stephen