gts4diehard

1989 S3 R31 Skyline Ti. I have had the car for four years and it is a very comfortable car to drive. It has been well maintained. The exterior is in very good condition, the interior in good condition. I am located in Canberra. The car has a Road Worthy Cert. We have recently got a newer car and its time for the '31 to find a new home. All Ti options: Auto. Air Con. Power Steering. Cruise Control. Trip Computer. Full Electrics. Tow Bar. Flip down rear seats. Extractors + sports exhaust otherwise stock std. 15 Inch Ti Mags, tyres over 50 % life left. 231,000 kms. $2900 Stephen - Pm me

Mr Nissan charges an arm and a leg for those pistons, I got prices when I thought about rebuilding mine just to know the worst case scenario. They told me $100 a piston (X8) + $140 for front kit, this was for a GTS4 with M type brakes, I've been told the GTRs and GTSTs/4s use same pistons but different calipers. I was quoted about $200 for labour to rebuild both calipers and kit, assuming no new pistons required. Good luck, with rebuild!

Yeh they rev really sweet, mine hit 8k a couple of times, sounded like it just wanted to keep going. hit 170~ in 3rd easy as, forgot I was in 3rd...lol. do miss a skyline motor that can rev, now that i am in my 'ol 31.

One of the RB20's is exactly the same as the R31 RB30's - can't remember which. SO it should be cheap about $70 -$80. Can't see there being a difference, but to be safe Take the old ones with you to a bearing place and they should sort you out. All the bearings have specs on what they are designed for, unlike other a/mkt parts, so you canbe sure you get the right ones. The Genuine Nissan bearings aren't made by Nissan anyway.

Hi, just wondering what sort of noise people are hearing with Gates belts? I had a nissan belt on my R32(when Nissan were about the only choice available here) and it was quiet, the only noise that came from area was the squeak/whirring sound from the worn out tensioner bearing before I replaced it. I have a Gates on my R31 and it makes no noise. Gates have made good quality belts for a very long time, my old man always used them on the engines he rebuilt. Possibly some of the noise being heard now could be tensioner bearings. The only other ways a belt can make a noise is if the teeth on it are slightly different profile(i.e. gears worn or belt profile not matching) to that on the cam/crank gears or its rubbing on the guard because it isn't dentralised on the gears. I seriously doubt that Nissan or HKS make its own belts so they will be coming from a parts supplier like Gates anyway.

No, but had experience with Gy Eagle GSD 3 f1's, I had 205/55/16's on my R32 GTS 4. Some people raved about them - overseas, but I didn't think they were anything too special, good in wet but awd makes most tyres look good. Not great in 205 size for a 1450kg plus car, too soft and squirmy under really hard driving(trackwork) - prob a much better tyre in 225 or 235 size for a car weighing as much as a skyline does. So just a review reinforcing your decision to buy another tyre..

yeh those guys are good there. I took my r31 there on a friday arvo at 4 pm and they welded up my exhaust no probs at all. Seemed really good and genuine about giving good service,i.e. he wants you to come back as a repeat customer unlike a lot of other guys these days. Stephen

or you can use a hot air gun to remove sticker, get it hot enough so you can still touch sticker, peel from a corner gently. use turps to remove glue residue left behind, or any gunk remover... if you get the temp just right it will hardly leave any glue behind at all. If someone has done a repaint on the job without letting the paint gas off long enough and then slapped a sticker on it there is the potential to pull the paint off, so if you think repaint has been done - be very careful. paint around sticker will have faded for sure if sticker has been on for any length of time and not been cleaned regularly. If car has been well looked after, the fading or oxidation of paint will be less. done this heaps of times too, used to work in vehicle sigange industry, put on plenty of business signage as well as removing it when vehicles were sold.

to clarify, I mean 200kw at wheels, not at engine, so your rwhp is realistic with those mods. I think $5 - $6 k on the cheap side really. microtech $1200~ +$500~ to tune, haven't got any mates where tune would end up less than this, always seems to need more than one attempt to get it right- especially if you like cold start and idle to work properly. turbo - new $2000~ see horspowerinabox etc injectors if required - $$900 - new for 6 front mount - cheapie inc pipes $700 - new exhaust - 3 inch cat back $400 2nd hand fuel pump $175~ boost controller $ labour costs to fit turbo, exhaust etc.. dump pipe $250 high flow cat $200~ ... of course all the same costs for a gtst too. but need to be realistic if you want the HP, i know a few guys who ended up going the mod route and they would have been better off to save and buy a 'Good' GTR. Stephen

gts4's are pretty good, I had mine for 6 years before I said good bye. Just make sure you know what you want to do with the car , i.e. power wise, and upgrading suspension etc. The gts4 uses GTR suspension and just about everything besides the engine/gearbox ratios and dif. So if you get into upgrade mode you can easily spend the same money someone who has a GTR will with one catch, it won't sell for the price a GTR will, even after you put in all those nice GTR bits. The good thing being that a GTS4 will be cheaper to buy, and a std GTS4 will be pushed very hard to break bits that are designed for a GTR's power output. Not to knock the car, if you are happy with potential of 200 odd kw($5-$6k- at cheapest) at the wheels with a few mods then go the GTS4. You'll love the wet weather performance and you will go looking for wet roads! If you think you could go nuts - i.e. you need this bit now that you upgraded that bit syndrome - go the GTR. An otherwise stock GTR running 14/15 psi, k&n, 3.5inch cat back, rechipped ecu will put out about 200kw at wheels. The GTS4's std are not slower than the GTST's, maybe if you are dragging from the lights in the dry but on a circuit its a different story, I have track times to prove that at QLD raceway. I remember a GTST which was running wider tyres than me and stock like mine and it could not pull away on the straights, although I couldn't run the same cornering lines as him due to my extra weight and narrower tyres. I had to go into the corners a bit softer but I was able to come out of them at full acceleration while the GTSt was just trying to keep it straight and get traction. No matter which way GTS4 or GTR you will love the traction advantage! p.s. I am thinking of getting a R34 25GT-Four next year, only 2.5 NA awd, but theres always a front cut from a stagea to make it turbo...

Hi just wondering if anyone knows the difference between a R34 GTT 4 dr and a R34 GTX 4 dr. Has the GTT got better suspension over GTX? I think they both have the same engines? and do any of the 4 drs come out manual, all the ones I've seen seem to be autos, with manuals in the 2drs. I have seen a few on the net and am interested to know.. Stephen

hi, just wondering if anyone has done this, putting a GTST/GTS4 steering wheel into a 89 Ti R31 sedan? I already have a steering wheel but am wondering if I need a boss kit fo r it? I know I could just rip the old one off and try it but would rather do it once and have all the bits I need when I do it. any help would be great Stephen

I put rdas on my r32 gts4, did a trackday at qld raceway, they worked perfectly well, stood up to my bendix ultimates good. QLD raceway is pretty hard on brakes. One thing different about GTSt/GTs4 brake rotors vs GTR rotors (besides thickness) is that the vents/vanes in a genuine nissan rotor is directional in a GTR(e.g. L & R) and GTst/GTS4 rotors can go either side of the car. I don't know if DBA's are directional but my RDA's weren't - not that I noticed, brakes worked perfectly well- on trackday and my mags(not the discs) were over 100 deg C, my tires were between 65 deg to 85 deg c too. I could not complain about the heat performance of my brakes - pads or rotors. I only got the std ones for my car, they were $75 each in Brisi this feb. It was $125 for slotted as they just slot the std ones for you, it gets done by the factory I'm told. definitely worth a try.

Hi, I have these links from a r 32 gts4, pretty sure they ar ethe same. if you interested pm me. I am in Canberra. Stephen

still for sale....

The price will be interesting for sure, considering the old R32's sold for around $110k rrp. The R34's sold new in NZ for $120K NZ, and the GTT's for $60K NZ from the Nissan dealers. BUt using 1990 prices, the old 300 ZX non-turbo I think sold for around $90k and the latest reincarnation - 350Z sells for $60k -$70k, so there may be some hope of sub-$100k.e.g. $99,995.95

hi, had a go at the front, unfortunately no expert at photo modifying, and borrowed/pinched a couple of bits from expert pics above - , unfortunately my version looks a bit french! looking forward to other attempts to fix the front end!

hi I think I have the bits from a GTS4, the wishbone is still connected to the hub tho, and lower control arm. If you are still looking for the parts let me know I am in Canberra tho. Stephen

All parts from 1990 R32 GTS4, suitable for R32 GTRs also. All parts are in Canberra. PM me if interested. Front hubs -pair (No rotors or calipers), with wishbones and upper arms (worn bushes) as well as ABS sensors Location : Canberra: condition: good: wheel bearings feel good, all bits in good nic. Reason for Selling: no longer have R32 Price and Payment Conditions:$175 pair, buyer pays freightetc. Item: Rear Subframe with cradle bushes removed, B] Item Condition:good Price and Payment Conditions: $175 ONO., buyer pays freight etc. Extra Info: Contact Details: Item: front subframe (not suitable GTST) Item Condition: good Price and Payment Conditions: $100 ono. Item: front swaybar Item Condition: good Price and Payment Conditions: $50 ono Item: front prop shaft (gearbox to front diff) Item Condition: good but some wear in universals Price and Payment Conditions: $40 ono Item: front headlight - left hand Item Condition: very good but one bulb missing Price and Payment Conditions: $90 ono prices are negotiable, would prefer local buyers but will freight/pack at buyers expense. Stephen R31'ing down south!

hey i think it is down in the driver side footwell (by the accelerator from memory). It is easy as. MY old gts4 used to prime when the car started which was easy to hear, couldnt hear it any other time. maybe yours has air in the line, if so this should fix it. make sure you have the resoivoir topped up well as it pumps thru quite fast and empties it out quick!