gts4diehard

Man you should have no probs with any of the rbs if they have had there oil changes and normal maintenance. My old r32 rb20det had over 180,000kms, it had regular oil changes and got regular thrashings on track days, and was driven like it was designed to be. Still ran sweet, motor idle was sweet, and was still on stock turbo too. It wasn't over boosted, just sat on 10psi with cat back exhaust. Nissan engines seem to last and last. They seem to handle abuse quite well. I once saw a datsun 200b at some Cleveland hotrod car show in Brisi, and they had an old subaru, they were trying to blow them, doing lap after lap. They took out the water out of both then caned them and subaru blew up, and datsun was still going, they then dropped the datsun's oil and it still kept going. In the end they gave up and drove it off the track. I think they were trying to prove that jap engines were crap. If they wanted a really big bang they should have run one of their dodgy aussie/yankee v8s!

Try www.horsepowerinabox.com, mates have got good deals from them in the past.

Mazda 6 all over it I say. Pity the aussie cars have taken so long to start looking good. Pity about fuel prices these days, whole world seems to be stepping off the deep end again! I wish Nissan would step into the market with their v35 Skyline instead of the old geezer Maxima. If you are going to compete in a market that will be squeezed by fuel prices you should atleast give it your best shot. Looking at the US sites the price of a G35 INfiniti/Skyline would be comparable with a Mitsi -Verada , around $28000 US, less than $40,000 Au. 3.5 L AWD 6spd manuals are going for $32000US, around $43000 AU. one day NIssan will grow some sense.

Elie, Hey just a quick note on the R32's, the low beams go OFF when you put it onto highbeam. The R32 High beams are just 'ok' for lighting but when you go back to the low beams it looks like someone is holding a candle in front of you. If yours lows stayon with the highs then someone has already 'fixed' them for you because the lighting on R32's doesn't work that way standard. I often thought about doing that to my R32 but never got around to it. The R31 lights (both high and low on for high beam) are much better, and the lights on my Magna are amazing compared to my old R32. Irocket, I would goto the guy who passed the road worthy and get him to fix it, his licence is at stake for something like this as well as the cosy deal he has going with the car dealer. A friend bought a Silvia a couple of years ago that had passed the road worthy but when he took the car for a tuneup a couple of days later the mechanic pointed out all the un roadworthy 'features' of the car and before you knew it the dodgy mechanic had righted it. This is a good point to remember for anyone who gets a 'mate' to do a roadworthy for them, because it can come back to bite them on the arse!

For a really psycho 'oldie' check this site out, just wondering how far away you would hear the blowoff valves from...lol This may have been posted here somewhere already but ... http://www.lateral-g.org/sandlin/

Have to agree with the above, from what I recall the R34 GTRs were being sold by Nissan NZ for $120,000 and the GTTs for $60,000. Perhap this might emphasize the differences between the two. If you want a GTR look a like - it will be cheaper to buy a GTR instead but if you want GTR like performance then that is approachable in a more affordable/2wd sort of way.

Hi, Just wondering what parts these two cars share. The engines would share some I expect but what about the parts that wear out? like brake rotors, pads, suspension bushes, links etc. When I brought my R32 GTS4 into Oz in '99 if you wanted new pads there were very few options, e.g. get your old backing plates relined. It luckily shared alot of parts with the GTR so you could atleast go to Nissan and get things - and cry at the prices. any knowledge out there?... because the V35 looks like a reasonable 'family' car with some decent performance that won't attract the wrong attention - I just want to be able to get parts here without having to order everything from Japan and all the dramas with wrong parts that that entails. Stephen

How are the bushes in your rear hubs, they are designed to give some compliance to assist the 4WS, and after a while they can give you a little more steering than you would like. The rear steering rack can wear considerably at both the hub and rack so if the car has a lock kit using old arms there could be movement at the lock kit end - if your tierods are ok. A friends GTR had over 5mm play in rear steering due mostly to the rear steering arms & tierods and some wear in the bushes in the hubs. Is the subframe lock kit bits sitting 100% correct? If all the bushes are ok(& nothings bent) - then your geometry should be fine (no abnormal camber/toe-in happening) and the car should pull up straightish. From what you say alot of suspension work has been done so hopefully everything has been done right i.e. suspension arms torqued up with the cars weight on them etc.

You won't be able to tell from the outside, the box casing is the same and as far as I know the numbers are too. The only way will be to check the speedo against a gts4 with a gts 4 box or jack the car up, car in 1st, wheels off ground (supported by stands of course) and turn the engine over by hand and count how many times it takes to turn the prop shaft 1 turn - and compare against the gearbox ratios of the two boxes.

Make sure you check the level of the attessa fluid in the boot with the ignition on. Its a pretty easy procedure to bleed, the GTR manual covers it. But the guys who did your box should be the ones doing it for you.

'If'it atomises the fuel better then the fuel will burn more completely and produce more power from the same amount of fuel injected. Better atomisation is part of the reason for porting cylinder heads etc, reducing fuel puddling in the inlet etc. So following the vaporate reasoning for its fuel efficiency improvement it would have to keep the injector hotter than the surrounding manifold, it would be interesting to see how that works on a water cooled manifold. Of course there's something else that fuel does besides burning, it also cools the air (to what degree I don't know) and helps prevent detonation on high performance motors, whether or not the vaporate would affect the level of air cooling could be a factor in engine reliability. One of the latest ways of getting more power and efficiency from the fuel is direct injection (injector right into the engine), not just into the inlet manifold. Maybe the extra heat on a direct injection engine injector is one of the contributing factors to the improved fuel efficiency of a direct injection engine. interesting site on direct injecton... http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/engine/petrol1.htm To me it seems like its a little too easy, and for me to be convinced, I would have to see dyno figures.

Yeh I have to agree, I got sick of the attention from cops in my R32. I remember seeing a story last year of some guy who wrapped his 'car' around a tree, he was 40 yrs old. The story went ' the car left the road....' then they showed the pic of the car, it was a fully kitted out modified commodore. Somehow the car just left the road with no help from him, if he'd been in a skyline it would have read....'40 yr old hoon loses control of his high powered nissan skyline while racing someone!' ...then again maybe the car did just leave the road on its own - it was a commodore!

MY next car will be a V35, not sure which model tho, theres the 158 kw AWD 250 GT from early 2000's or the 190kw 300GT or the 200kw 350GT. check out this site for skyline specs, prices look very good: http://specs.amayama.com/nissan/skyline/ I saw a 350GT8 for sale in Sydney on carsales a couple of weeks ago for $32000, with ~25000kms or so. In the US you can get the 350GT in awd, which would be very nice. Something rwd with decent power, good brakes and good handling. Went from a R32 GTS4 to a 3.5 tippy magna and though its not bad as a family car, looking forward to getting something a bit sportier next time. Only wish the kids car seats weren't so wide, it was a real squish in the back for an adult with 2 car seats in the back of the R32 coupe! anybody here with an R34 sedan and 3 kids? that centre seat cushion doesn't look to accomodating for a 3rd person... so V35 for me... when the kids are out of their car seats

Just a quick response on cheaper tyres, I don't have Nankangs but Another brand worth checking out are the GT Radials as they are a reasonable tyre, I had the Champiro 55's and they Stood upto a couple of track days quite well as well as being a good road tyre, though at the very end of their life mine didn't have much grip.

The difference one has an extra lens cover on the park light (within the whole light assembly), the other you can see the park bulb easy.

They are normally pretty pricy. Tho I saw one recently two or three weeks ago for 24k, http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/5766, unfortunately its sold but looked good.

Hi, you may be able to get a little more power with a better air filter and exhaust mods (extractors & so on) to help you out, but I'm sure if you had had power as the first priority when you bought the car, you would have got a turbo in the first place. When I had my R32 GTS4 (2L turbo, manual) it felt pretty dam good compared to what I had been driving. Weighing in at around 1450kgs it was par for acceleration as a R32 GTS25 (auto) with the above done to it. SO I think with the extra kgs my car was carrying and the mods he had done they sort of equaled out) . The best I did to 100km/hr was 7.5 secs with a mate stop watching(not the most accurate but...) with a 4.5 k launch, which is pretty dam slow! factory specs for new were 6.75 secs so age and the fact it was my car (wasn't going to do a 6 or 7k launch) hadn't really slowed the car a lot. I learnt pretty quickly that I wasn't go to blow people away at the lights and that I had to make use of the cars other abilities - like cornering, braking etc if I wanted to stay in the lead (all on a race track of course). I would say your R32 2.5 is fairly heavy like my old GTS4 and with only 200cc more than the Mazda you have to expect that it will be hard to get one up on them. Like the others have said , Enjoy the other aspects of your car, its not all about power. Otherwise you would have a GTR ...

Yeh, check for the driveshafts at the front wheels, maybe someone has just replaced the speedo cluster with a gts/t instead - that's what I'd be hoping then I'd just be worried how many kms it had done. Don't want to say it but always a good idea to do a bit of research before buying something unfamiliar to you - especially when you are buying a car that can be very expensive to repair!

all of the above but also include a very worn upper suspension arm - pretty much check this first anytime you get squeaks or thumping noise from your front suspension if you haven't been kerb jumping or anything else crazy.

Hi I am looking to sell these bits from a R32 GTS4, will suit R32 GTR also. Prices are plus freight. Here they are: ************************************************** Pair of Front hubs with 'wishbone' arms, lower control arms and top arms, No discs or calipers... $200 front subframe ............................................................ $80 rear subframe (subframe bushes removed).................... $140 (these sell at the wreckers for around $250) front swaybar .............................................................. $40 Gearbox crossmember for manual box (with good rubber mount)............................................ $50 K&N panel filter(done 40,000 kms) & 2 x Z145A NEW oil filters (genuine Nissan)....................... $50 ************************************************** The parts are in Canberra, will freight at buyers expense. My R32 is long gone and I think when I get back into a skyline it will be a '34 or '35 so I won't be needing these parts ... if these parts interest you let me know. PM me, as it gets hard to find these topics sometimes. Stephen

The best motoring video about Skylines is pretty good, it compares all the versions, and the R35 Skyline was quicker on the track than the R32 GTR. That was really surprising, I didn't expect the R35 to be anywhere near the R32, even if the r35 had a better driver. I saw a Black R35 Skyline sedan in Canberra the other day and it looked really good, with 18/19 inch rims - although the front looks a bit like a Maxima. It had the red/silver GT badge you see on the R32's etc on the boot/hatch. They have come down a bit in price, Prestige have some for $26-28 K for 2002 models. So My next purchase will likely be a R35 350GT sedan or a R34 GT-Four sedan (around $18k), pity they aren't turbo but both really good cars for the price. Its just a pity the R35 doesn't come here as they start at about 2,700,000 yen which is about $32000, upto $47 for the top of the line -awd. Maybe they'll bring in the 'lesser' models to cater for all the Skyline enthusiasts who can't afford the next GTR.

Just been checking out the Nissan JP site, and saw a pic of a Jap magazine with an article that I would presume to be about the next GTR's engine. Has anyone seen/read the magazine? haven't seen this mentioned on site, sorry if it already has.

If the R33 front suspension upper arms are anything like the R32 ones, they can clunk when they are really stuffed, the first set I replaced on my R32 squeaked for ages then developed a clunking sound, another possibility can be the big nut that holds the shock in the strut can be loose and cause a banging noise, this happened to my R31 when the 'apprentice' that fitted my front shocks failed to tighten the strut 'nut' tight enough (they were fitted by the car dealer to pass a roadworthy! - normally I would have done it myself.)

Hi, if you need just the R32 rear cradle bare(needs cradle bushes installed) then I have one in Canberra $150 + freight. Stephen

has the car been run with different size front and rear wheels? this will cook your clutches pretty quick as the front wheel drive isn't designed to be on all the time. if the attessa fluid level is ok and you drive the car sensibly I can't see how you can break it. If the clutches are gone you will be always in rear wheel drive and I think the same would also happen if the fluid level was low and the system couldn't lock up the clutches so you would be getting a fair bit of wheel spin when you do start accelerating harder if either of these were the case. It could just be gauge/attessa computer related if you are having no wheel spinning problems. Has anyone played with the attessa unit under the rear parcel shelf?, one is the rear speaker amp, and the other is the attessa computer. hope this has been of some help. Stephen