gts4diehard

just saw the post below...pls delete

just make sure you are checking the fluid level with the ignition on, so that the attessa pump is primed and fluid level is true.

they aren't the same, R33's are better designed to last longer.

boxes are the same externally, only diff is the ratios etc. get the ratios from the workshop manual and put gearbox into one of the gears and turn the input shaft and count the rotations at the rear end, you should be able to easily tell the difference from a GTR to GTS4 manual as there is a bit of diff in the ratios from memory.

With one of my R32s the front upper arms started making a clunking sound when they were worn. Have you got std rubber bushed upper arms in your car or the urethane ones? When you refitted the springs did you tighten up the bushes with the car on the ground. From memory when you fit the upper arms you have to torque them up with the car on the ground, which is to ensure the twisting of the bushes(movement of the arm) is within the range that the rubber can take without breaking. It could be now that you have reset the height of the arm that there is wear in the arm from previous height or if the person who lowered the car actually did it properly you may now be forcing the arm into a range of movement that is outside what the rubber can take. When you fit new arms they make special mention on how important it is to tighten the bolts while the car is on the ground and to me it makes sense to do the same when you alter the range of movement that the suspension arms will be going through by lowering/raising the car. another cause of the knocking can be stuffed shocks - especially if stock shocks have been used with low springs, now that you have increased the range of movement of the shock I think it would highlight any probs the shock might have. sorry for not narrowing the options but the above maybe worth considering. may not be the case with you car

just to check with you - are you sure its brake fluid, I am assuming that the brake fluid resovoir is low. Does your car have abs? abs is located on passenger side so it could be fluid leaking from that and running underneath the car.

when they released the R34GTT in NZ it was $60,000 NZ at the NIssan dealers, at the time the exchange rate was crap so it would have been about $50,000 AU then add on luxury tax etc. Brand new R34 GTRs were $120,000 NZ from the dealer as well, a pretty good deal compared to what was being charged for 2nd hand ones here at the time $150,000 Au +++.

supposed to be a 2hr highlights program on 22 April, according to what they said at the track yesterday. I didn't actually think much of the 12 hr race, a bit boring compared to the cars on Saturday - I was literally falling asleep by lunchtime. I watched it for 6 1/2 hrs before snoozing and I think the best part was the first half hour in the dark when you could see the rotors glowing at the end of conrod straight. The historics were a real blast especially the Mustang that won, it was really good to see the little cars mixing it with the big cars again. The sports cars - Lambos/ferraris/porsches were also really good to watch, man they looked good coming down conrod straight. They were the best part of the weekend for me. p.s. Watch out for Red Commodores 5km either side of Cowra!

biggest tell tale sign is that the silver timing sticker is gone, they don't normally fall off. you can be pretty sure the cambelt has been replaced but how long ago is anyones guess. i bought 2 1990 r32 gts4's in april 99 and they both had over 100,000kms on the clock, both had kms marked on stickers, one had been changed at ~70,000 kms, speedo on 108,000 but I replaced the belt on this one at 120,000 kms - I think it may have been wound back also. car was in mint condition as most imports are. Safest thing is to replace the belts, check the tensioners if you are quite dubious of the kms.

try CBC bearings in NSW - you should be able to buy one individually or if no luck try these guys in Brisi - Bearing Traders Pty Ltd, they should be able to overnight it (07) 3808 2766. I used to get bits for my R32 from them, no probs. Even sourced a full timing belt kit and tensioner bearings + hydraulic tensioner for my '02 Magna and it cost me under $300 all up to get the bits sent to Canberra. should be under a $100 for the bearing for your Skyline.

Just wanted to mention that some brake places will put new linings on the old brake backing plates if you can't get hold of the pads. Some place on the gold coast used to do it and you can get the high performance material as well. Nismo catalog and Jap price list - via www.babelfish.altavista.com http://www.nismo.co.jp/products/productgui.../partslist.html 1. Engine part NO. Part name Part number Unit cost P/C Summary 1 レーシングラジエターキャップ 21430-RS012 3,360 1 Injection-valve open pressure =0.13MPa (≒ 1.3Kg/cm2) all car which excludes the cold area specification car 2 Low temperature thermostat 21200-RS580 7,350 1 All the car opened valve temperatures approximately 62 ℃ (genuine =76.5 ℃) 3 Oil filler cap 15255-RN012 8,610 1 All the car aluminum make buff finish stainless steel make logographic plate attaching Screw size =M32×3.5 4 Oil filler cap 15255-RN013 6,510 1 Aluminum die-cast make silver paint 5 Sport air filter - 16546-RN075 8,925 1 All the car genuine exchange types 6 ヴェルディナ sport catalyser - 20800-RS596-C4 84,000 1 The metal catalyst flange diameter φ for 260RS 80 7 ヘットガスケット 11044-RRR45 33,600 1 For 260RS Metal make T=0.9mm silicon coating application 8 11044-RRR46 35,700 1 Metal make T=1.2mm silicon coating application 9 Air flow meter 22680-RR580 36,750 2 The measurable air quantitative twin 2400kg/h single 1200kg/h for 260RS 10 Air inlet pipe 14460-RS597 126,000 1 The aluminum make for 260RS Turbo (compressor) - piping set to 2 -> 1 gathering sections Duct main point processing 11 Intercooler piping set 1446A-RSR45 71,400 1 For 260RS and aluminum casting buff finish 12 Exhaust manifold gasket 14036-RSR45 15,750 1 The metal 3 structure t=1.3mm for 260RS 13 Heat sealed tape 14450-RN050 3,255 1 Width 50× length 3000 (mm) When the exhaust outlet is installed, combined use recommendation 14 14450-RN100 5,145 1 Width 100× length 3000 (mm) 15 14450-RN200 9,660 1 Width 200× length 3000 (mm) 16 Fuel pump 17042-RR581 42,000 1 The emission quantity4.6L/min for 260RS of competition (a t p = 3.0kgf/ c u) harness, connector and strainer attaching 17 Fuel pressure regulator 22670-RR580 12,600 1 For 260RS 18 Oil pan baffle plate 11113-RS580 44,100 1 Hydraulic decrease measure at the time of side G for 260RS 19 Sparkplug 22401-RN010-6 3,990 3 RB25DE (T) RB26DETT For street iridium plug Heat range #6 2 pack 20 22401-RN010-7 3,990 3 For street iridium plug Heat range #7 2 pack 21 22401-RN010-8 3,990 3 For street iridium plug Heat range #8 2 pack 22 Strengthening timing belt 13028-RSR45 15,750 1 Tensile strength 1.2 time heat-resistant 1.8 time for RB twin cam engine Cutting strength 3 time resistance tooth being lacking worn 9 time 23 VERUSPEED motor oil KL101-RN621 2,940 - 1 liter can Viscosity: For 10W-60 sport driving 100% chemosynthesis oil 24 KL101-RN624 10,290 - 4 liter can 25 VERUSPEED Motor oil filter NS5 15208-RN020 1,890 1 RB20E, RB20DE and RB25DE (T), RB26DETT 2. Power transmission type part NO. Part name Part number Unit cost QTY Summary 1 Clutch disk (non ground) 30100-RS254 25,200 1 RB25DET (4WD), as for the disk for 260RS you use with the selection cover and set Cover bonding power 1050kgf 2 Clutch disk (kappa mix) 30100-RS252 32,550 1 3 Clutch cover 30210-RS255 35,700 1 4 Sport clutch kit 3000S-RSR35-E 100,800 1 Kappa mix circuit travelling direction Kit contents: Disk & cover lightweight flywheel release bearing 5 3000S-RSR35-N 94,500 1 For ノンアスキット refreshment 6 Super kappa mixed twin 3002B-RS599 182,700 1 260RS RB25DET (4WD) business PULL TYPE 640PS corresponding high power specifications contents: Aluminum make clutch cover (950kgf), kappa mixed disk (φ 225), set of flywheel 7 Super kappa mixed twin COMPETITION model 3002B-RR598-C 184,800 1 PULL TYPE 780PS corresponding high power specifications contents for competition: Aluminum make clutch cover (1,150kgf) kappa mixed disk (φ 225), set of flywheel 8 Solid shift 32839-RN595 16,800 1 RB25DET (4WD M/T), 10% short stroke conversion for 260RS 9 Quick shift 34110-RN595 35,700 1 260RS private lever ratio modification 25% short stroke conversion joint rubber hardness rise 10 GT L.S.D. Pro * Initial torque 3 stages (5-8-12kg m) modification possibility Installing kit attachment 38420-RSS20-B5 115,500 1 2WAY RB25DET ('98/8 - 2WD M/T bis refuse attaching car) RB25DET ('98/8 - 4WD A/T car) 11 38420-RSS15-B5 115,500 1 1.5WAY 12 38420-RSS20-C5 115,500 1 2WAY RB20E (- '97/8), RB20DE (all car), RB25DET (- '98/8 4WD A/T car) RB25DE (the 2WD bis refuse you attach, all car & the '97/8 - bis refuse non car), RB25DE (the 4WD all car) 13 38420-RSS15-C5 115,500 1 1.5WAY 14 38420-RSS20-E 115,500 1 2WAY RB25DET ('98/8 - 4WD M/T car), 260RS 15 38420-RSS15-E 115,500 1 1.5WAY 16 GT L.S.D. Pro TT model * Initial torque 3 stages (5-8-12kg m) modification possibility Installing kit attachment 38420-RSS22-B5 115,500 1 2WAY RB25DET ('98/8 -, M/T, bis refuse attaching car), RB25DET ('98/8 -, 4WD, A/T car) 17 38420-RSS17-B5 115,500 1 1.5WAY 18 38420-RSS22-C5 115,500 1 2WAY RB20E (- '97/8), RB20DE all car, RB25DE (the bis refuse you attach, all car and the '97/8 - bis refuse non car), RB25DE (4WD all car), RB25DET (- '98/8 -, 4WD, A/T car) 19 38420-RSS17-C5 115,500 1 1.5WAY 20 38420-RSS22-E 115,500 1 2WAY RB26DETT 260RS 21 38420-RSS17-E 115,500 1 1.5WAY 22 GT L.S.D. * Installing kit attaching 38420-RS020-A 96,600 1 2WAY RB25DET (the '98/8 - 4WD MT bis refuse you attach), RB25DET (the '98/8 - 4WD AT bis refuse non car), 260RS 23 38420-RS015-A 96,600 1 1.5WAY 24 38420-RS020-BA 99,750 1 2WAY RB25DET ('98/8 - 2WD bis refuse attaching car), RB25DET ('98/8 - 4WD AT bis refuse attaching car) 25 38420-RS015-BA 99,750 1 1.5WAY 26 38420-RS020-C 99,750 1 2WAY RB20E (2WD - '98/8 bis refuse attaching car), RB20DE (2WD - '98/8), RB20DE (2WD '98/8 - bis refuse attaching car) RB25DE (2WD '97/8 - '98/8 bis refuse non car), RB25DE (2WD bis refuse attaching car) 27 38420-RS015-C 99,750 1 1.5WAY 28 38420-RS020-CA 99,750 1 2WAY RB20DE (2WD '98/8 - bis refuse non car), RB25DE (2WD '98/8 - bis refuse non car), RB25DE (4WD), RB25DET (4WD - '98/8) 29 38420-RS015-CA 99,750 1 1.5WAY 30 VERUSPEED L.S.D. Oil KLD80-RN911 2,888 - 1 L can 80 W -90 for 100% chemosynthesis oil rear diff. 3. Brake part NO. Part name Part number Unit cost QTY Summary 1 S-tune brake pad (front) 41060-RN25B 16,800 1 2WD (RB25DET you exclude) the for car Rotor proper temperature: Usual limits - 500 ℃ Coefficient of friction: 0.3 - 0.5 μ 摩 materials: Non ground 2 41060-RN28F 16,800 1 RB25DET (- '98/8 4WD) for car 3 41060-RNY40 18,900 1 RB25DET ('98/8 -) 2WD, 4WD commonness 4 41060-RN27P 23,100 1 For 260RS 5 S-tune brake pad (rear) 44060-RN13P 21,000 1 For 260RS 6 R-tune brake pad (front) 41060-RRR45 27,300 1 For 260RS Rotor proper temperature: 200 ℃ - 800 ℃ coefficient of friction: 0.3 Or more 摩 material: High carbon metal 7 R-tune brake pad (rear) 44060-RRR45 25,200 1 8 VERUSPEED brake fluid ESP01-RN111 4,725 - BF-5 standard product glycol 1L can entering 4. Suspension part NO. Part name Part number Unit cost QTY Summary 1 For long hub volt/bolt front 40222-RS035 6,825 1 50mm Serration diameter 14.3mm type 10 set Selection use & standard item length =42mm 2 40222-RS045 7,035 1 60mm 3 For long hub volt/bolt rear 40222-RS015 6,825 1 50mm Serration diameter 13.0mm type 10 set Selection use & standard item length =42mm 4 40222-RS025 7,035 1 60mm 5 Aluminum load wheel LM GT4 * As for -WH white, as for -BR bronze, As for -SL ルバー 40300-RN922- * 69,300 4 All the car forging 1 piece 17×8.5J OFF +30 reference tire size 225/45-17 6 40300-RN930- * 75,600 4 All the car forging 1 piece 18×8.5J OFF +30 reference tire size 225/40-18 * As for the 4WD car, also the front and the rear the tire and the wheel of identical size use. It is incoming order production. 7 G-ATTACK S-tune suspension kit 5300S-RSC40 120,750 1 2WD all the car normal form attenuation power stationary type height change generations Fr= approximately -20mm Rr= approximately -20mm spring constant Fr 39.2 (4.0) Rr46.1 (4.7) N/mm (kgf/mm) 8 5300S-RSC45 110,250 1 4WD (A/T car) business normal form attenuation power stationary type height change generation: Fr approximately -30mm Rr approximately -20mm spring constant: Fr37.2 (3.8) Rr43.1 (4.4) N/mm (kgf/mm) 9 5300S-RSC47 155,400 1 260RS and 4WD (the M/T RB25DET car) business normal form attenuation power 4 step adjustment type height change generation Fr= approximately -30 - 25mm Rr= approximately -20mm spring rate: Fr58.9 (6.0) Rr62.3 (6.4) N/mm (kgf/mm) 10 Circuit link set 54501-RS595-R 29,400 1 Right side set You use with 260RS, 4WD M/T and the strengthening bush pressing in end set for 4WD A/T Set contents upper link and trance berth link 11 54502-RS595-R 29,400 1 The left side set 12 Tension rod 54460-RS580 24,150 1 260RS, 4WD TURBO M/T and the left and right 1 set strengthening bush pressing in end for 4WD A/T Silver paint 13 Rear A arm 55550-RS590 28,350 1 14 Rear A arm set 55550-RS591 33,600 1 260RS, 4WD TURBO M/T and the left and right 1 set strengthening bush pressing in end for 4WD A/T Silver paint renforcing plate addition 15 Rear upper link (anterior) 55125-RS580 11,550 1 260RS, 4WD TURBO M/T and the left and right 1 set strengthening bush pressing in end for 4WD A/T Silver paint 16 Rear upper link (back) 55135-RS590 14,490 1 17 Rear lower link set 55100-RS590 15,750 1 Left and right 1 set strengthening bush pressing in being completed silver paint for 4WD A/T HICAS non car 18 Front third link bush 54545-RS590 3,150 4 260RS, 4WD M/T and for 4WD A/T Rubber hardness rise main point pressing in job 19 Rear axle bush (upper side) 55157-RS521 1,575 4 For 4WD A/T 20 Rear axle bush (rear side) 55152-RS520 1,050 2 For 4WD A/T HICAS non car 21 Rear axle bush (upper side) 55157-RS580 1,470 4 For 260RS 4WD M/T 22 Rear shock absorber - bush 56219-RS595 4,935 2 23 Upper mount bush upper 56217-RS580 630 4 For 260RS 4WD M/T 4WD A/T Front & rear common rubber hardness rise 24 Upper mount bush lower 56218-RS580 630 4 5. Interior exterior part NO. Part name Part number Unit cost QTY Summary 1 Steering wheel boss 48416-RS020 13,650 1 For competition - '98/9 2 Horn button 48417-RN001 2,100 1 NISMO logograph & horn mark entering major diameter φ 60 3 GT shift knob (for M/T) 32865-RN011 5,460 1 10mm (for 5 speeds) Special software urethane make The shift knob which has been installed in the GT500 vehicle モディファイ 4 Shift knob (for M/T) 32865-RN003 4,200 1 Adapter unit screw size 10mm This leather make NISMO logographic batch attaching 5 32865-RN004 7,140 1 Aluminum make chrome plating finish NISMO logographic hallmark entering 6 32865-RN005 7,140 1 Aluminum make black alumite finish NISMO logographic hallmark entering 7 32865-RN009 7,980 1 Aluminum make carbon & aluminum twilight plating finish NISMO logographic hallmark entering 8 32865-RN006 4,200 1 Adapter unit screw size 10mm&12mm ジ…ラコン make white "brim" attaching NISMO logographic paint entering 9 32865-RN007 4,200 1 ジ…ラコン make black "brim" attaching NISMO logographic paint entering 10 32865-RN008 16,800 1 Titanium make titanium it starts shaving, the item NISMO logographic hallmark entering 11 Clear lens side Wien car 26100-RNC40 3,780 1 Left and right 1 unit orange valve attachment 12 Floor mat 74902-RNR35 20,790 1 Before the WGNC34 ステージア 260 RS minor (- ' 98/8) business 5 mat specification over lock finished black

I did mine a couple of years ago, got the bits from NIssan Moorooka in Brisi. The tierod were $75 each - these are pressed into the hubs. The rack ends (with the balljoint) that connect to the tierod ends were about $110 each. The rear steering doesn't have a conventional tierod i.e. the rotating joint is attached to the hub. I don't think you will need to replace the tierod ends, maybe the rackends and the tierods.

i had gt champiros on a std r32 gts 4 and i never had any problem with them, even in the wet they were fine. They were ok on the track too, my times were the same or better than std gtst's- not too bad for a car thats 150 kgs heavier. I am not saying i couldn't have done better times with other tyres but they never gave me any reason to fear them. In fact they were probably better on the front than the bf goodrich radial tas that I put on later which understeered like crazy in the wet, the fronts were always pushing wide(sliding at slows speeds into roundabouts). I wonder how many people here have gone from a low powered front wheel drive car into a high powered rwd Skyline and not taken the time to learn the car before pushing it? Whenever i put new tyres on or do something that changes the vehicles dynamics I always take the car for a blast to just get a feel for it, just so I have a few more clues on what to do if the shit hits the fan.

it will be combination of the link bushes and the tierods, more likely the tierods. Did you fit the old steering arms to the hicas lock bar? The rear bushes needs a little movement in them because the hicas is basically compressing the bushes to give the car rear steering. But you should not feel any movement at all by hand. First thing I would try is new steering arms (from the hicas lock bar to the tierod end in the hub) as the ball joint might be worn. If that doesn't cure it then you will need to remove the hubs to replace the link bushes in the hubs. Once you see how involved that is you might as well replace the lot, because its not a job you want to do twice! I replaced the bushes in my hubs, and the steering arms and that tightened up the rear end so that you couldn't feel any movement at all. The next step would have been to replace the bushes in the links themselves to have basically new rear suspension. The car felt more controlled at high speed into corners after that (on qld raceway), and I think that the Hicas was not in any way detrimental to the cars handling considering that the hicas was now working with components in good condition.

make sure you check the fluid with the ignition on as the fluid drops when the pump primes the system. Reading the fluid level without the ignition on will give you a false reading.

good to see someoneelse giving it a go, did mine a couple of years back because everyone was quoting $700 + for the labour only. holesaw and hacksaw is the easiest way to get those bushes out.

price sounds ok to me, I got a price a couple of years back and to replace the pistons(genuine) was a $100 each, which is $800 just to rebuild the fronts + seals+ labour - wprst case scenario- His price doesn't seem too bad considering the types of brakes they are.

Hi, I had a brief drive of a V35 350 GT8 in NZ at christmas and I had to say not having driven a cvt car before that it felt strange to me. I am used to cars that have a gear that is really punchy but the v35 just felt linear which sort of disguised how quickly you were really accelerating. It got upto a 100kms/hr quickly and handled quite well, even when the back wheels were skipping across bumps(the slip indicator was flashing on the dash as well) at 100kms hr around a tight corner. The steering wasn't as tight as what I was used to in my R32, and actually felt slightly more vague than the 380 hire car I had at the time. Car is very nice, lots of luggage space if you need it and is quite roomy inside. This particular one was quite highly specced, 6 disc min disc, 8 disc cd player, dvd player and in dash screen. The rear seats were also adjustable for angle - which is quite cool. A good sized car with 200kw and rear wheel drive - there isn't really anything else that competes at the price.

Try Nissan they do them for about $120 each new, that will tighten up your rear end a bit if the car has done a lot of kms. My gts4 and my mates gtr both need them replaced, the rear wheel steering was 'enhanced' due to the wear in the tierods and hub bushes, much better with the rear end tightened up.

Sorry, haven't got one for sale, but if you can't get one, try Gavin Woods in Labrador, he knows a place in gold coast that can recondition them.

I had a 3 inch Nismo cat back with the middle 'muffler' and oval rear muffler and 4" tip, picked up 2nd hand for $350 from an importer. It was as quiet as, prob a little too quiet - i.e. did a 5000 rpm launch with cops on the other side of a van beside me and when they pulled me over they didn't mention one thing about the exhaust, only how fast I took off. No tyre squealing tho(32-GTS4)so that probably disguised the speed of the takeoff a little as well as the quiet exhaust . Didn't even get a ticket so I am glad the exhaust was quiet.

R34s were $125000 NZ in 2001/2 from the Nissan dealers which I think was just over $100k in $Au at the time. Here at the time R34 GTRs were $150k AU. So if it comes in through Nissan it should be cheaper than what the importers would initially bring it in for. Not that I expect the next GTR to be cheap but it may not be as dear as everyone expects. V35 infinitis/skylines - 3.5 AWD sell in the US for $30 - $33K which works out at $37-$41k Au, which would be pretty competitive here for sure. http://www.edmunds.com/new/2006/infiniti/g...266/prices.html http://build.infiniti.com/configurator_inf...07:g&bs=g35

Maybe the R33 system is more noticeable than the R32's, I suppose it has to work faster to maneuvre the heavier body of a R33 than a R32 at a similar speed. But in the 6 years in my R32 GTS4, with several track side excursions, driving on the limits of adhesion and beyond I never felt the 4ws doing anything that unerved or scared me. The time when the rear did feel dodgy was when the bushes got really worn(subframe and rear hubs) and then the rear felt like it was steering a bit on its own. To me it seems unlikely that the Hicas is useless, most of the gear on a Skyline works well and better than a lot of other cars and I can't see Nissan putting it on their cars if it doesn't have a genuine benefit and why they would continue from the R31 to R34s. With my experience in my R32 it seems more likely that the cars that are behaving strangley re Hicas are doing so because the rear components are either very worn or a combination of suspension modifications has modified the HICAS response away from its original design.

If your car is in good nick, i.e. the bushes that enable the rear wheels to steer aren't stuffed allowing more movement than what is intended - then I think it does a reasonable job. I doubt there are many people who can outdrive the hicas computer, hardly any body is capable of driving a GTR 10/10s anyway. Before you blame the Hicas jack up the rear and grab a hold of the rear wheels, if you get any movement (as in the direction the car would steer the wheels) at all then something needs fixing. Although I don't think there should be any probs with your R34 unless it has done higher kms.

cold air is denser and holds more fuel, if fuel is atomising well then theres probably no need to cool the actual fuel. I don't think cooling the fuel is going to help unless you are noticing fuel problems due to heat. Brings back memories of cars not starting/being hard to start on hot days because the fuel was vaporising in the carby before it went into the engine e.g. heat soak in engine over heating the fuel in fuel bowl in carby but I don't really think it applies to injected engines. For a start the electric fuel pump will supply the right pressure regardless whereas a mechanical fuel pump needs the engine to be turning to get the fuel pressure up, and the fuel is mostly sucked into the engine.