smokem31

i checked resistance in coil pack wiring, and coild pack wiring is ok. so my problem is between the coil pack plug on engine loom, and the ECU. as a easier fix, can i piggy back the earth wire from the other coil pack that fires at the same time as cylinder 3? or will this present problems at high revs? cheers

i want to test the signal wire from ecu to coilpack by probing with a test light.... just want to know if i need to use an LED light, or is a conventional test light sufficient? cheers

mine is 3 litres.... but i thinks its overkill.... i got a habit of doing that though! 1.5 should be fine if your restricted in space. no dramas buddy

I am running an 044, from surge tank to injector rail, and my stock pump as a draw pump to surge tank. I tried to figure out how to run 044 off same wiring as stock, but couldn't get it to work, I think due to negative earth.... The only filter I am running is to the 044. I wouldn't be running it inline with out a surge tank...

ok, ill check that, thanks..... also, just checked, and plug does get constant 12v when ignition is on....... what are the other two wires? earth? and what else? cheers

hey again ok, its cylinder 3 from the front of the block thats not firing. when i unplug the coil pack, engine keeps missing just the same, if i unplug any of the others, it runs worse.... i swapped the coil pack with number 1, and still number three not working. spark plug not firing.... so i swapped the plug with a new one, and still no go..... oh, also, running pfr5g-11 plugs. any ideas?

it misses at idle and under load..... plugs were changed before AFM was changed.... ill try narrow it down to a certain cylinder tomorrow, and take plugs out to see if fouled..... car is running very rich at the moment, but probably cos one cylinder not firing? it really cant be anything else besides coil pack or plugs can it? cheers

hey people, i have changed the AFM it fixed the limp mode problem straight away.... i have another problem though.... the engine is missing. i though bad fuel at the start, cos its been sitting in the garage for about 2 months, on very low fuel, so i drove to the petrol station, added octane booster as well as premium, and let it run for a while. still missing on the way home, as soon as i pulled into the garage, it stopped missing, and was running sweet. so jumped back in to take it for a proper test drive, and it started missing straight away. i have a 044 fuel pump and surge tank, and the pump makes some funny noises like its sucking in air, but surge tank is full... i have never run an 044 before so i am unsure whether noises are standard or pump is fu#ked. i have changed plugs to NGK BKR5EIX-11 if i fiddle with the CAS and turn it completely anticlockwise, it sounds a tiny bit better.... also, when i back off throttle, the car almost stalls, sometimes does stall. revs around 900 at idle just trying to give as much detail as possible.... cheers people

Ok... I did do all the wiring... And double checked it all... I found the self diagnosis part, but my ecu has no LEDs, and no dash light cos it's in a r31.... Any ideas how to get a read out?

Hey people I have got the rb25Det I put into my 31 running with everything connected including vct, afm, cooler... And it won't rev above 2400..... I read it's most likely afm or tps... How can I check these? It sounds like it's hitting a rev limiter.... Just before boost.... Any ideas? Thanks

What does this unit do? The one with heater hoses going to it? Cos I can't find the plug for it anywhere.... Thanks

Hey people, looking for a series 2 AFM for RB25DET and also the metal lines that run from the master to the slave cylinder, including the bit that gets bolted to the body. thanks guys

there is a control unit that is under the intake plenum, that has the heater hoses running to it as well.... what is meant to plug into this unit? i cant find the corresponding plug on the engine loom.....

thanks for all the help guys. i cut the extra earth wire running to the ECU ground, and fuel pump primed perfectly, and car started! happy as larry........ so, thanks again...... was blowing a heap of smoke though. looked blue/grey, but smelt like running rich..... straight out of dump though, no exhaust connect as yet..... now just have to wire vvt, and run exhaust and cooler piping.

the fuel pump relay is connected to ECU pin 18 as the input trigger. but is earthed directly to body. rather than earthed through ECU. would that matter? i have plugged a normal realy into the ECCS plug. how does this ECCS relay get power? through that white plug on the engine loom?

also, as a bit of a random intermediate question.... with stock turbo and stock setup, except for 3" exhaust.... what is the best size cooler and piping to run.... 2.5" or 3" thanks

i was thinking about the fuel lines this morning... the regulator connects to the fuel tank return line yeah? is the best way to test if injectors are injecting with noid lights? the loom does belong to this engine, but i got it all in pieces..... so according to loom, its a series 2 engine, but its a series 1 ECU..... thanks

Is there a way of telling what series coil packs I have?

i am not running an igniter cos there is no where to plug it into the loom. its def a series 2 loom, but i dont know its its series 1 or 2 coil packs..... the fuel pump did prime properly when i first wired it up. it turned on for about 5 secs, then off again. but now, for an unknown reason, it stays on....... is it a problem if its always priming? i dont know if its an auto or manual ECU.... are they different? the car cranks, and sounds like it wants to start! haha, i have had a problem with inhibitor switch before, and car didnt even attempt to crank..... the fuel pump is directly earthed..... well, wire 50, which is earth on ECU, is directly earthed to body, and is same earth as fuel pump relay...... thanks guys

Hey people, i am putting an RB25det into my R31. OK.... so i have the engine cranking, and fuel pumps working. i have wired everything except for the VVT. i have two problems. fuel pump doesn't stop priming, and engine wont start. i have wired as per wiki page, and checked it three times..... i have 12v ignition power at injectors and at plug that goes to coil packs....... there is no AFM plugged in. i am still questioning what series engine i have. its def a series 2 loom, but my ECU has a black sticker, so think its a series 1 ECU. no idea what my engine is, i don't know know to tell??? the engine should start with out the AFM and VVT hooked up yeah? i haven't wired up the neutral switch, but the other plug that need to be wired for an auto to manual conversion has been done. all this talk of ECCS relay has me really confused. on my engine loom, i have the ECU plug, the white plug and a 4 pin relay plug. thats it. i am guessing the 4 pin plug is where the ECCS relay goes? or am i missing something? Sorry for all the posts, but this is doing my head in, and i just want my car back on the road! Any ideas please? Cheers

Hey I have read just about every thread on putting a 25 into a R31. but i am still having problems.... do i need to run constant and ignition power to the ECU? the wiring diagrams say the ECU gets its power through the ECCS relay.... do i need to run power to wire 49 of the ECU? my fuel pump wont prime. i dont know if it is because of the constant power question listed above, but it its not, has anyone got any ideas as to why it doesnt work? i have checked the wiring twice, and it has been done as per the tech info write up. i think i have a series 2 block. do i need to run constant power to the coil packs? if so, to which wire? i am not running the ignitor..... how do i wire up the VVT? thanks in advance

i thought it would be better to run the SARD with the 044 and surge tank i am going to install.... please let me know if i am wasting my time trying to change the reg! where can i buy that block off adapter from? cheers

Hey People, I want to run an aftermarket fuel pressure reg off the standard RB25DET rail, how can i remove the standard reg, and run my aftermarket one? cheers

hey mate are these fine to run on a standard r33 series 1 motor thanks

Hey people, am putting an rb25 into my r31, and am using the gearbox out of the vl turbo, I think it's the mx7 gearbox. The starter motor holes in the sheet metal plate don't meet up with the holes in the gearbox. I am wondering if i can make the holes bigger and use the holes on the gearbox for the r33 starter? The holes are out by about 5mm. Will the starter still sync properly with the flywheel if I use the vl gearbox holes? Cheers