Jump to content
SAU Community

xscape237

Members
  • Posts

    439
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Posts posted by xscape237

  1. I agree with the other guy that the 350z diff probably isnt worth your hassle. Especially if you've only got the centre.

    The viscous unit is not that great. On my car, sometimes it felt like it would initially lock up both wheels, then go single spinner, then lock up again if i gave it enough.

    I had a proper 2-way LSD on my car for a while and it was MILES ahead of the factory viscous unit. Noisy as all buggery though.

    The ATS Carbonetic centre, with the carbon clutches, seems like the ultimate option. Been in a car with this and it was quiet. Haven't been in a car with a quaiffe but it also sounds like a good option

  2. Had a few people call but no one come to see the car yet.

    Would like to sell it within the next few weeks if possible.

    Forgot to mention that I imported this myself a couple of years ago. At the time it was very hard to find a white manual premium edition in good nick.. they cost much more than cars in silver or automatic.

    Also many of the V35s in australia were imported by dealers who get the cheapest cars and wind back the ks.. I can provide you with a copy of the auction sheet and other import papers to prove that its not the case for me.

  3. I forgot to add that i will throw in some spare parts if the buyer wants them.

    I have an Ogura Racing (ORC) clutch and lightweight flywheel, cost me over $1400.

    I also have the factory intake and airbox setup, another grill (chrome), and possibly some other stuff, need to go through the shed properly.

    Here are some older pictures, of when the coilovers first went in:

    coiloversin.JPG

    coiloversin3.JPG

  4. For sale:

    2003 Nissan Skyline V35 Coupe

    Manual

    White pearl

    Premium edition

    88,000 kms

    Located in western suburbs of Melbourne.

    Mods:

    - 20" WORK wheels.

    - BC Racing coilovers

    - Fujitsubo cat back exhaust

    - Fujita F5 intake.

    - Motordyne Plenum spacer.

    - Impul ECU (with speed limiter removed).

    - 2006 model headlights with factory HID setup (huge improvement over the 2003 - 2005 model lights).

    - Nismo 280 km/ph instrument cluster.

    - Quality alarm, professionally installed.

    - Trip computer has been converted into English.

    - Aftermarket DIGITAL TV tuner has been fitted, allowing you to watch Australian digital TV channels using the factory screen.

    - Rare factory option MOMO steering wheel.

    - iPod / iPhone connector for both video and audio.

    - Chrome door handles.

    - Clear indicators.

    - De-badged rear.

    - Custom plates

    - Brembo brakes

    The car also has all the usual premium edition features, including leather interior, tv screen, BOSE stereo and dual zone climate control.

    No accident history.

    6 months rego.

    Brand new clutch (fitted today).

    Additional pictures and information available.

    $28,500 including RWC

    I'm happy to negotiate on price for a quick and easy sale, e.g., if a RWC is not required.

    Contact me here or email to [email protected]

    Thanks.

    post-48748-0-35834900-1298032681_thumb.jpg

    post-48748-0-66281500-1298032685_thumb.jpg

    post-48748-0-57150900-1298032689_thumb.jpg

    post-48748-0-65287600-1298032693_thumb.jpg

    post-48748-0-68952600-1298032697_thumb.jpg

    post-48748-0-31026700-1298032702_thumb.jpg

  5. I personally do not think that there is much difference between the stock open diff and the stock viscous diff. The latter is obviously preferrable but I wouldn't bother going to the effort of fitting one.

    Anyhow. I agree that a nismo unit (or similar) isnt for everyone, hence why I had mine removed.

    The carbonetics 1.5 way seems nice. Friendly enough for the street. Supposedly you need to drop the oil every 5,000 kms though.

  6. The factory LSDs (viscous) are not very good anyway. Probably an improvement over a truely open diff, but i'm not sure if its worth your time and effort.

    You might as well grab something a bit more serious.

    On that note, I have a second hand 2-way (centre only) kicking around somewhere if anyone wants it. To suit 6 speed manual. Not sure if it can be adapted to the auto or not. $400 posted. Not very street friendly but absolutely transformed the car.

  7. According to V35 (japanese magazine) the series2 (Jan03 - Nov04) models sold in Japan when new as follows

    350 GT-8 3.66million Yen

    350GT 6MT 3.00million Yen

    350GT Premium6MT 3.25million Yen

    Have no idea what the exchange rate was back then but today it is about 82Yen = $1AUD making them cost between $36k and $46k. No doubt there would be some dealer and rego charges to add but they were not as expensive as you would imagine domestically.

    (The autos are far more popular in Japan accounting for 99.5% of the production of these models.)

    Unfortunatley, it doesnt work this way.

    For whatever reason, there is a big mark up for cars in Australia. Its not just import tax and GST either.

    Take a look at the yanks, they pay only $27 - $29k (USD) for a 370z... while we pay $70,000. Work that one out.

  8. Yeah, the ramps are not essential, but are definitely very handy.

    To the other bloke who is thinking about buying coilovers - I was also looking at the Tanabes, and some other brands, but settled on BC Racing. They are excellent value for money. The tanabe items at around about the same price level do not have the same level of adjustment. Also the way that you adjust the height on the fronts of similar priced items is not ideal (basically, you would be just compressing the spring.. with the BC racing coilovers you are effectively shortening the whole strut assembly, keeping the spring static).

  9. He would have to be pretty dim to think that he has them installed the right way. At least after putting it all back together and seeing what it looks like.

    Seriously mate, I would just invest in a few good tools and a slab of beer. With a mate handy you should be able to knock it off in 2 to 3 hours tops. You'll need at least 2 jacks, some stands, a socket set, and if you're as weak as I am you may also need to buy a 12v impact wrench to loosen the stubborn lower bolts.

    Also if you're dumping it as low as I have, then I highly recommend buying a set of the following and leaving them in the boot.. they've proven to be absolutely invaluable.

    TAKATA LDS (low down slope)

    takata_lds_ramps.jpg

  10. OK, just for future reference -

    The first picture is the correct install.

    The adjustable spring perch (gold thing) needs to be at the top. Its designed in a way that it fits inside top mounting position perfectly, meaning you throw away the factory rubber cone.

    The only reason why anybody would keep the rubber cone on the car is if they installed the springs upside down (with the adjustable perch on the bottom). In this case you need the cone to keep the spring properly in place. This is the WRONG method clearly, because it would mean you have to remove the spring to adjust the height! Crazy. Also it will prevent you from lowering the car as much as you might want to. I imagine it would also mess up the matching of adjustments between the spring height and shock height.

    **Note: you must keep the other rubber mount (flat one). It goes on the bottom, between the spring and the arm.

×
×
  • Create New...