xscape237

I can't help you with the question but earlier today i noticed the exact same set for sale on another forum for $2200 http://www.350z-tech.com/forums/165-aussie-classifieds/70547-syd-19x10-5-19x9-5-12-varrstoen-wheels.html

I've only ever had to simply push the button. Trust me this will do the trick. Done multiple skid pan days, a beginners drift day, etc.

I agree with the other guy that the 350z diff probably isnt worth your hassle. Especially if you've only got the centre. The viscous unit is not that great. On my car, sometimes it felt like it would initially lock up both wheels, then go single spinner, then lock up again if i gave it enough. I had a proper 2-way LSD on my car for a while and it was MILES ahead of the factory viscous unit. Noisy as all buggery though. The ATS Carbonetic centre, with the carbon clutches, seems like the ultimate option. Been in a car with this and it was quiet. Haven't been in a car with a quaiffe but it also sounds like a good option

Price is negotiable if no RWC is required.

Excellent looking Stag, but unfortunately im just after the dollars.. no swaps.

Its nismo.

Had a few people call but no one come to see the car yet. Would like to sell it within the next few weeks if possible. Forgot to mention that I imported this myself a couple of years ago. At the time it was very hard to find a white manual premium edition in good nick.. they cost much more than cars in silver or automatic. Also many of the V35s in australia were imported by dealers who get the cheapest cars and wind back the ks.. I can provide you with a copy of the auction sheet and other import papers to prove that its not the case for me.

I forgot to add that i will throw in some spare parts if the buyer wants them. I have an Ogura Racing (ORC) clutch and lightweight flywheel, cost me over $1400. I also have the factory intake and airbox setup, another grill (chrome), and possibly some other stuff, need to go through the shed properly. Here are some older pictures, of when the coilovers first went in:

For sale: 2003 Nissan Skyline V35 Coupe Manual White pearl Premium edition 88,000 kms Located in western suburbs of Melbourne. Mods: - 20" WORK wheels. - BC Racing coilovers - Fujitsubo cat back exhaust - Fujita F5 intake. - Motordyne Plenum spacer. - Impul ECU (with speed limiter removed). - 2006 model headlights with factory HID setup (huge improvement over the 2003 - 2005 model lights). - Nismo 280 km/ph instrument cluster. - Quality alarm, professionally installed. - Trip computer has been converted into English. - Aftermarket DIGITAL TV tuner has been fitted, allowing you to watch Australian digital TV channels using the factory screen. - Rare factory option MOMO steering wheel. - iPod / iPhone connector for both video and audio. - Chrome door handles. - Clear indicators. - De-badged rear. - Custom plates - Brembo brakes The car also has all the usual premium edition features, including leather interior, tv screen, BOSE stereo and dual zone climate control. No accident history. 6 months rego. Brand new clutch (fitted today). Additional pictures and information available. $28,500 including RWC I'm happy to negotiate on price for a quick and easy sale, e.g., if a RWC is not required. Contact me here or email to [email protected] Thanks.

Mine is at 88,000 and nothing has failed on me yet.

What have you been smoking?

I havent done that particular one, but i've been to a similar event in melbourne (the difference being you use your own car). It was an absolute ball.

I personally do not think that there is much difference between the stock open diff and the stock viscous diff. The latter is obviously preferrable but I wouldn't bother going to the effort of fitting one. Anyhow. I agree that a nismo unit (or similar) isnt for everyone, hence why I had mine removed. The carbonetics 1.5 way seems nice. Friendly enough for the street. Supposedly you need to drop the oil every 5,000 kms though.

The factory LSDs (viscous) are not very good anyway. Probably an improvement over a truely open diff, but i'm not sure if its worth your time and effort. You might as well grab something a bit more serious. On that note, I have a second hand 2-way (centre only) kicking around somewhere if anyone wants it. To suit 6 speed manual. Not sure if it can be adapted to the auto or not. $400 posted. Not very street friendly but absolutely transformed the car.

$700 is too much btw. You can buy the 2 sets of pads for $300 total (decent quality). Plus $150 MAX to have them fitted (its literally a 10 minute job). Machining all four discs shouldnt cost more than $100.

And if we want to get even more ludicrous, the famed example is the commodore SS. Its built here, in australia, and we pay about $50k for virtually the same thing that gets exported to the yanks and they pay only $32k for it. Anyhow.

Unfortunatley, it doesnt work this way. For whatever reason, there is a big mark up for cars in Australia. Its not just import tax and GST either. Take a look at the yanks, they pay only $27 - $29k (USD) for a 370z... while we pay $70,000. Work that one out.

In japan, they're priced just a tiny bit more than the zed. So you can assume that if they were sold in australia, it would have been at the $65k mark.

Yeah, the ramps are not essential, but are definitely very handy. To the other bloke who is thinking about buying coilovers - I was also looking at the Tanabes, and some other brands, but settled on BC Racing. They are excellent value for money. The tanabe items at around about the same price level do not have the same level of adjustment. Also the way that you adjust the height on the fronts of similar priced items is not ideal (basically, you would be just compressing the spring.. with the BC racing coilovers you are effectively shortening the whole strut assembly, keeping the spring static).

He would have to be pretty dim to think that he has them installed the right way. At least after putting it all back together and seeing what it looks like. Seriously mate, I would just invest in a few good tools and a slab of beer. With a mate handy you should be able to knock it off in 2 to 3 hours tops. You'll need at least 2 jacks, some stands, a socket set, and if you're as weak as I am you may also need to buy a 12v impact wrench to loosen the stubborn lower bolts. Also if you're dumping it as low as I have, then I highly recommend buying a set of the following and leaving them in the boot.. they've proven to be absolutely invaluable. TAKATA LDS (low down slope)

OK, just for future reference - The first picture is the correct install. The adjustable spring perch (gold thing) needs to be at the top. Its designed in a way that it fits inside top mounting position perfectly, meaning you throw away the factory rubber cone. The only reason why anybody would keep the rubber cone on the car is if they installed the springs upside down (with the adjustable perch on the bottom). In this case you need the cone to keep the spring properly in place. This is the WRONG method clearly, because it would mean you have to remove the spring to adjust the height! Crazy. Also it will prevent you from lowering the car as much as you might want to. I imagine it would also mess up the matching of adjustments between the spring height and shock height. **Note: you must keep the other rubber mount (flat one). It goes on the bottom, between the spring and the arm.

Lambo doors dont even look good on a lambo. This is a disgrace! and why isnt it wearing the proper wheels?

Is that from the japanese manual or the american G35 manual? *edit* i see the problem now. it kicks in if ONLY ONE of the drive wheels are spinning. i dont have that issue =D http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KFdVgOn9hQ

I have to disagree with the comments here. One quick push, and VDC is properly off. At least on my car. Have done two skid pan days and a beginners drift day and never felt VDC doing anything.

$55