rich81

1993 R33 GTS-T Turbo front seal gone. Car had Apex'i from front to back - S-AFC, AVC-R, pod filter. Unknown 3" cat-back, stock cooler and turbo. One of my passengers fiddled with the S-AFC, but since I was a complete retard and newbie at the time I didn't consider the consequences of basically throwing a careful tune out the window. Poor maintenance by a n00b owner... poor choice of oils, flogging it too hard on ~14psi with stock cooler/turbo in the hot Brissie weather. Checked compression in all 6 cylinders to make sure it wasn't blowby, but then inspection of intake showed oil accumulation (a LOT of oil) after the turbo, accompanied by the occasional howl from the turbo under boost and a general lack of power. Ended up selling the car as-is because I was flat broke and couldn't afford to do anything to it. I loved that car... maroon with white Kaiichi Tsuchiya wheels and dumped squarely on its nuts by a nice set of Cusco's.

Hi guys, Picked up an RB30 block and crank on the weekend (cheers pnk32). Block has water and oil lines already tapped - awesome . Now, I think the bore is 87mm (I didn't have a ruler handy, but the play between piston & bore was greater than in the RB25 block). I'll measure it properly today to be sure... BUT the cylinder wall has rust spots etc, they don't look deep or anything but it'll definitely need a cleanup. Anyone know a good place in BNE to get block (and possibly head as well) cleaned up? It would be great if said place will do bore machining/honing and possibly even re-sleeving if necessary. If the bore can be machined to clean up the rust etc... how MUCH can be machined off the surface without going too far past the 87mm mark? Is it just a matter of getting piston ring gaps right when doing the build? Or am I better off punching the sleeves out and getting them re-done (can you even do that on an RB30?) If I do get it resleeved, can I go even bigger bore than 87mm (and still find pistons to suit)? Sorry if I've repeated any questions that have already been asked.

This... different wheel circumfrence is bad enough for a regular diff, and for AWD... my parents dropped about $5k worth on diff repair/replacement in their Volvo XC70 before it was discovered that a tyre shop (that shall remain nameless) put the wrong diameter tyre on... fairly subtle difference too apparently. Aforementioned tyre shop ended up reimbursing them for diff repair/replacement, towing fees etc. So I wouldn't at all surprised if it would also cause ATTESA to chuck a spaz. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...amp;pid=4643006 - suggests that a 2% difference in rolling diameter is acceptable, maybe check your tyre/rim sizes? If it's not that, I have NFI coz I don't really know much about ATTESA (jack in fact)

Where did you go? You took your car didn't you.... I saw a vid of you doing skids in Georgia and was like "WTF.... THAT is dedication....." If you're on the European continent with that thing, I dearly hope you plan on paying the Nürburgring a visit.

Ah ok, so you mean anti-surge is designed to prevent the turbo surging in conditions where it's capable of *increasing* the flow rate faster than what the engine can flow at a given RPM? I've been reading compressor maps for the GT35, GT40 etc.... doing my head in trying to work out the best selection for a nice responsive RB30 that'll still make decent power... I know a lot of people have said the GT35 is a good match, but I'm keen to figure out what figures it can do *within* the 76-79% efficiency envelope. I'm sure there's a lot of people out there who have slapped a big turbo to their car and wound up the boost without considering compressor maps etc..... In terms of using flow rate/pressure ratio to determine what HP a turbo will support, how do you apply that logic to calculating engine HP? Is the HP figure for a turbo (e.g. 40lbs/min equates to 330hp etc) just added on to the N/A equivalent horsepower of an engine?

Hi guys, Been doing a little research into turbo options for an RB30 and the GT3582 can be had with anti-surge cut into the intake shroud, which I'm assuming is the ports they drill around the shroud to allow air to escape out of the compressor housing back to the intake to alleviate surge etc, e.g. if the turbo is making more boost than the engine can flow (for whatever reason, e.g. throttle closing etc), any excess pressure that would normally cause a surge escapes through the shroud, is that right? BOV's as far as I'm aware are designed to relieve pressure between the turbo and the throttle plate when the plate snaps shut, preventing the compressor working against a charge of compressed air that ain't going anywhere. Now, my question is..... does having an anti-surge shroud effectively negate the need for a recirc/blow-off valve, since the air will have somewhere to escape when the throttle snaps shut? Is anti-surge even worth it? I heard it can lead to *slightly* delayed pressure rise etc (without affecting spool time directly) but the benefits are that you won't kill your turbo (or engine) if you encounter surge conditions. Can anyone shed some light on this? I'm interested in knowing more about surge in general, what can cause it in a setup and whether the preventatives measures are worth the extra cost and tuning consequences (if any) etc...... Cheers guys.

Like tiberis said, rev drop can be caused by leaking vacuum hose between booster and plenum... used to happen to me in my -33 when I had a busted hose. I'd be almost 100% certain that's what's causing that. As for the power thing..... wouldn't have a clue, I can't thing of anything brake-related that'd do that, apart from maybe a short in the brake light wiring? But I wouldn't have thought that'd knock out all electricals in the car. I'd just start picking through your fuses looking for a blown one to begin with.... never know, it could be a wild coincidence, blowing a main fuse and engine stalling due to vacuum leak at the same time. I'm no expert, that's just what it looks like from where I sit :-)

Hi guys, Finished tearing apart an RB25DET bottom end. All the bearings had what looked like particulate wear (dead straight scratch from end to end) like some dirt or somesuch has gotten in between the crank and the bearing.... pretty normal for a 17-year-old engine, right? But... the centre main bearing had a different wear pattern. I don't know what each side of the bearing is named, so I'm making stuff up here... but the side with the annular groove has dark wear tending toward the centre of the bearing, and the other side has very uneven wear as well. At this point I'm rebuilding a whole new bottom end from an RB30 block, but since I'm trying to learn more about engine building etc I had to ask... what can cause this type of wear in the bearing? Is it just normal sort of wear to see in a main bearing, or is it caused by bad lubrication, fuel diluted oil, uneven load etc.... dying to know. I've attached pics, adjusted brightness/contrast so the wear patterns come out easier, and highlighted the bits I'm asking about. Cheers :-)

Mine are just like that. Brownish paint for intake, reddish/rust coloured paint for exhaust. Stock cams :-) Altho it's fun to pull apart an import and find stuff you didn't know was there (found an old S-AFC wedged up behind my dash a year after buying my old -33). Also found Cusco coilovers, Splitfire coils......

I got the bastard off. I wedged a piece of wood between the girdle and one of the rod caps at the point where the rod has minimum clearance from the girdle. Then with the timing belt still in place, I was able to undo the intake cam gear bolt and then the crank bolt with surprisingly little force... they didn't just come right off, but instead of the epic battle I was prepared for, I just had to use a measured amount of force with the breaker bar until they came free. Then used a pulley puller to get the harmonic balancer off, and that was that. It's amazing how easy it can be with the right tools (and good advice!). Thanks guys. Head came off tonight, tomorrow I break apart the bottom end and see what the bearings look like....

Great idea - I have a Bag O' Rags and a big-ass spanner. I'll try that before going for a rattle gun - I'll set the wrench up and smack it with my breaker bar.

Thanks, THAT'S what I was trying to say :-) OK, well the missus' old man has an air compressor, so I guess I need to hit up Kennard's for a rattle gun.... I wonder if they hire them out? Thanks for the advice guys.

*Might* get access to one of those - would it be enough by itself to just crack the bolt straight off? I.e. does an air-powered tool deliver enough force to just break the bolt without needing to secure the other end etc?

There's the problem tho - I don't have a flywheel, at all. Thanks for the warning about the crank seal.

Hey guys, Still tearing down this RB25DET I picked up this week. My next challenge: removing the crank pulley. There's no flywheel on the motor so I can't really shove anything thru the ring gear to hold the crank in place. So my questions..... a) what's the thread diameter of the studs that mount the flywheel to the crank? in case I need to frankenstein something up to keep it steady. b) Am I missing anything with removing that 27mm bolt, other than giving it a good smack with a hammer to crack the seal then just undoing it with the help of a breaker bar etc? c) Anybody have an ingenious way of securing the other end of the crank, other than by my Frankenstein method above (metal bar with a few holes drilled in to secure it against the crank, then lock it against engine stand) Thanks guys.