lilcrash

ok all sorted, booked in at gold coast 4wd and performance, $350 in labour, $840 for a clutch from kudos, $99 for the clutch service kit from kudos and $250 in towing to nerang.

I thought he might be busy that's why I've tried a few times. It's just I'm stuck without a car at the moment so I need to find someone I can trust to do the clutch asap I've organized a tow truck just need a time date and place to send it to.

i would love for dan at elite to do it but he hasnt gotten back to me , ive sent him a few emails but i think i might ring him.

hey, just wondering where everyone gets their clutches done. thanks

now that straightens it out alot, i was leaning towards telling the guy at the clutch joint to just quote me on a r34 gtr clutch, now i see that i should have.

ok just incase people are interested, on the extreme clutch website it lists the wgnc34, r34 gtt, r34 gts and the r34 gtr as KNI25003 but on the exedy website it lists r34 gtt and r34 gts as NSK-7333 and r34 gtr as NSK-7172, they dont have a listing for the stagea. im unsure why extreme list all 4 as the same when exedy says that the r34 gtr is diffrent. i also went down to my local clutch place and they rang their supplier and have come back with the stagea is the same as the r31/32/33 gts which is NSK-7056, the prices they gave me are $368 for a standard (NSK-7056) $519 for a heavy duty (NSK-7056HD) and $775 for a heavy duty cushion button (NSK-7056HDCB). the only thing that is bothering me is that the r13/32/33 clutch is a 240mm and the others are a 250mm. can anyone shed some light on this??

thank you very much

does anyone have a part number/price for a clutch. is it the same as the r34 gtr item - NSK-7172 ?? thank you

i wasnt trying to cause annoyance, but it is a very well known fact that nissans dont like atmo bovs, (the person that opened this thread is a first time turbo person, its a useful fact) as for the offset point i cant see any mechanical reason why offset should matter.(just personal knowledge)

as for the bov idea, most nissans run better withg a plumback as when you remove the return pipe it pours fuel down your exhaust, thus causing mass flames/burning cat. as far as im awake as long as your front and back wheels are the same rolling diameter offset doesnt matter, ive got 18x8+6 on the rear and 18x8+35 on the front of mine and have absolutely no problems, actually i have no idea how any of you have fwd offset on the rear of ersyour cars, is eveyone using spacers? or is my car just a freak.

i thought pods were legal as long as there were dry, wet filters are a fire hazard.

i realsed that getting plates to suit a car is a silly idea because your probably wont have that car for long. so my new plates are MAG607 - MAGGOT hehehe

im sorry to be a pain in the ass but i think some one has screwed with my ecu. i am going to pull it out and have a look at what it is, i will let you know asap if i still need the nistune. sorry for any trouble i have caused. its just there is nothing on my case and i want to be sure it is a nissan ecu and that it is a jecs board,

Coil packs don't throw an error code. But after having many issues resolved by changing my coil packs I recomend it the only decision is based on if you want a factory fit or just ones that work. Splitfires are the only ones I found to be a proper fit. I'm not a Nissan person so i only know from my experiences. I also have the cable and software. But I'm in ipswich so a fair bit further than Qwk32.

Hey. I have interest but I just want the board mailed to me and i will install it my self. Will this be a problem?

i just noticed that link make a plug in for the stagea, has anyone had any issues with them.

If I'm going to change ecu it's a simple decision to go with the haltech,They are top notch in all aspects except no one can tune them. Both my celicas had haltechs and I didn't have any issues until I wanted to get a better tune.( in the defence of the people who say they can tune haltechs both engines were something they probably had never seen) I read today that they now make an r32/33 plug in. hopefully will be available for the stag/r34 soon then all the issues would be sorted.

is there anywhere in austalia that sells these or is it something that i need to buy from america direct?? and just to be sure this is a piggy back not a stand alone yer?? just out of curiosity are you only going this way because no one in australia can tune haltechs??

Ok now we have a few people in here so I have one simple question. I am an electronics person so installation is of no concern. So what are the average price of some of the diffrent setups and what is the average tuning cost. Like I said if someone wants to use my car as a tester I'm happy to install everything if the cost is reduced for research purposes

Yeah mine has good and bad days too. Sometimesit can just be a good few minutes. And yer it starts to lose power from about 4500 til about 5200 then it pics up again. Originally I was considering clutch as it only started when I fitted splitfires. Mayb it's just the splitfires. There isn't really any info saying they will definately improve your performance.

Do these fit on the back of a manual properly?

Yer it's a series 2. I would happily have a go at the Vipec/link if anyone wants to supply one as a reasonable deal/research development. Nistune is looking like a good possibilty. Has much gone wrong with them? And is there an awd dyno/nistune tuner in south east Qld. As for the series 2 r33 chat. A guy at work has a claimed 400hp 11second r33 and I'm pretty sure it's only the gearbox that makes them faster, on diffrent occasions His 3rd and 4th pull harder but my 5th pulls harder and 1st and 2nd are about even. And my car only rarely hits 10psi

I've got k&n panel filter, 3" just jap dump, hks high power cat back, empty cat case, just jap stealth intercooler, splitfires and boost turned as high as the restrictors will allow. I was considering mayb a nistune but am considering haltech or power fc now.

I'm starting to wonder if it is normal for there to be holes in my fuel maps where my car will lose power then pick up again after a few hundred rpm. At first I thought it may have been the cams but not really sure. Thanks for any info

It doesn't take much for Toyota to build a superior car when there engines don't have half of the problems that Nissan does. Like yer ok I do drive a Nissan but I've still got a 1974 rt104 in my shed that's twice as reliable as my stag