Jump to content
SAU Community

zonbie

Members
  • Posts

    39
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Brisbane

Profile Fields

  • Car(s)
    VY SS Ute R33 GTST
  • Real Name
    Steve

zonbie's Achievements

Explorer

Explorer (4/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Week One Done
  • One Month Later
  • One Year In

Recent Badges

0

Reputation

  1. Thanks for the link Jason. Petition signed. Steve.
  2. Well done on an excellent write-up dorifticon. I too enjoy a technical article, and the information you have gathered is quite informative. Well done.......
  3. Mate, I have a guarateed cure for you. It is a bit old school but it works. Here is what you do: - Get a large steel shacle. About 2 - 3 inches. - Then get about 8 or so metres of 16 guage insulated cable. - Start threading the cable tightly though the centre of the shackle and wind it tightly through and around, throggh and around, the entire circumference of the shackle. The idea is to imaginne the shackle as a circle and you are covering the circle in several windings (or turns) or wire. - Connect this wire in series with the 12 volt input of your amp. (add a fuse if you like). - Start engine, turn on amp, and listen to whine-free clear sound. If you have a massive sound system, which I suspect you do, you should use a higher current cable, and a proportionaly larger shackle. What you are doing is creating a large inductor to attenuate the whine. I had EXACTLY the same problem in my R33. I made one, and installed it in the boot. Like I said, it is very old school, but, it works. PM me if I have not described the process well enough, or you need more info. regards, Steve.
  4. Another method is to use "Ezy-Outs". Ezy-Outs are a tapered tap with a reverse thread. You drill a hole into the sheared bot, then insert the Ezy-Out, and as you turn it anticlockwise, it bites in to the bolt, and screws it out. They are designed for exactly this circumstance (stripped heads off bolts). You can buy cheap sets, though name brands from Tool Shops do the trick. Good luck Cobber............... Easy to get broken bolts out with these gadgets.
  5. That was happening on my mate's R33. It had after market front indicator assemblies on the front bar. It turned out that one of the bulbs had a low wattage bulb in one of the front indicators. The low wattage did not give enough current for the flasher to trigger correctly (it was flashing too fast). Fitted a higher wattage bulb (18 watt) and all fixed. Good luck.........Steve.
  6. +1 for the toady. A deep sea toadfish.
  7. I made a offer........................... got knocked back but.
  8. Hey Cobba. My 2 cents worth................... The first 2 x replies to your original question are on the money IMHO. Steve.
  9. Jeez, anybody can type in [search "indicator".] Good on you man for helping the guy asking the question out.
  10. zonbie

    Fcking Ants

    The ants were like a conga line on the charger cable.............. I have a solution. Ants do not like walking on rubber, i.e. they do not walk on rubber. They will not climb up your tyres, but they found the only other way into your car............ along the charger lead. So: Wrap some rubber around the lead to block their path, or possibly sit the charger (and lead) on a rubber mat on the ground. No more ants! Note..... must be rubber, not plastic and rubber mix, not nylon, not silicon, just rubber. Good luck with it.
  11. Well done. Thank-you for the info guys. I will save my moolah for the good gear.
  12. Are they of any real benefit? Anyone here actually fitted one? What was your experience with it? Would you recommend them?
×
×
  • Create New...