46n2

I've got RB74's in 32 and I have next to no noise. I have been told by a trustworthy source, that when new, the pads (RB74's) need to be bedded in on old, unmachined rotors...Apparently when you stick a set of RB74's in on new / machined rotors, there is quite a bit of squealing, but I haven't experienced this yet... Plus they're CHEEEP

Check that none of the studs that bolt the manifold to your head have snapped off. I had 3 snapped - causing my leak...because a new gasket isn't going to do much if you're missing those studs... 46n2

And come with a factory oil cooler

Summary: Order to check things in (or at least the order I should have followed)... 1. Plugs 2. Coils (note - even if resistance is OK they can still spark internally and cause problems. I don't know how to check for this though) 3. Ignition module (borrow someone's healthy one - but be warned - it's fragile) 4. Injectors 5. Gaskets (Intake - both to the head from the manifold, and the collector box to the runners) 6. Head Gasket And if all else fails, or you want to know straight away, take it to a professional with experience with your model Skyline I'll post (hopefully) final results once the new intake gasket is in. 46n2

I did after 20 - 30 minutes of running, but I haven't done the 100K re-tension yet. Maybe I should do that tonight... But the retension seemed to fix my leaking coolant problem when it first occurred after putting the head back on... Good Luck

Thanks Adam, It has been a giant pain in the :shake: for so long... I haven't got the gasket in yet, but I'm going to organise it soon. I'm going to take it into them to do, because it'll take them 4 hours, and me at least 8 Sorry to hear that you're having dramas... Try a copper gasket, they don't cost too much, but on the down side I think you'll need to get your head and block machined... Keep me posted... 46n2

HOORAY! I Got sick of all the F**king about, so I took it to Gavin Woods. Now I know that the problem is with the only gasket I didn't replace when I changed the head gasket! - the intake manifold to head gasket! Causing a huge vaccum leak in cyl 6... Parts have arrived from Nissan, so now I guess I'll see how goes *fingers crossed* :shake: :shake: :shake: 46n2 PS - Also got my new pads put in while I was there! RB74 are awesome!

Check out whiteline... http://www.whiteline.com.au And everyone seems to talk about King springs aswell. Haven't looked for their site. 46n2

Probably true...but will he need harder set shocks? If so than saving for a set of 2nd hand coil overs may not be a bad idea?? 46n2

Dear God no don't cut the springs :eek: IMHO I'd take it to a suspension place and look into it there. I think with lowered springs, you'd also need harder shocks. If you can afford it look into coil overs... Good Luck 46n2

Mine makes the same noise. I was told it was the fuel pump. 46n2

good job indeed. Drifto accident? Shouldn't be too hard to correct. Mash the D/S ito a kerb :uh-huh: 46n2

For those who are a little unsure. I found this searching google... source: http://www.btc-bci.com Beginning of Extract: Most people hear these words but rarely have the opportunity to understand what they mean and do. TOE This is the amount that the wheels are pointed in or out EG often called "total toe in or out". On rear independant suspension cars this is also adjustable, Subaru, Daihatsu etc. NOT live axle cars though. Fords, Holdens etc. Often measured in mm this little change makes huge differences in handling. As a car moves forward the suspension often moves back reducing toe in, so cars are often set with 1 - 3 mm toe IN. If the car has toe out it often tends to wander on the road more. On all our rally cars we run about 1 - 2 mm on the front and BACK. Rear is less important as it tends to be less likely to be affected by knocks, pot holes and kerbs. BUT it is important to be correct CAMBER Think of the angle of most roads, look along it and it slopes to the side to make the water drain or is banked on fast freeway corners. This is camber, the angle your wheel sits in relation to vertical when pointed ahead and you look straight at the car from front or rear. Measured in degrees, most common road cars have 0 - .5 degree std. some more. Too much NEGATIVE camber will wear out tyres on the inside. POSITIVE wears out the outside. Look at really old cars they often have POSITIVE camber. (I do not know why). The correct amount varies depending on CASTOR, (see follows) and how you drive your car. If you have little castor and you love driving fast through corners then you need more NEGATIVE camber, if you do heaps of freeway driving then less is better. THE REASON? When you turn a corner the outside tyre tends to roll under the rim, causing it to wear on its outer edge. By laying it on its side you reduce this effect. Too much and it will wear on the inside, too little and wear on the outside. NOTE this is often used to stop wide tyres rubbing on wheel arches or suspension points, this case tyres wear is not a focus! REMEMBER too much neg camber and you will lose traction in straight ahead driving as the tyre is not flat on the road. CASTOR This is the best of both! BUT is often not adjustable on modern cars. Camber stays the same if the pivot (vertically) of the car suspension is zero. EG if you turn the wheel about its axis (steer not spin) it stays the same. BUT if the axis is at an angle (for and aft) then the more you steer the car, the more camber you get! Its hard to relate, but if you imagine looking at the LHS of the cars wheel, with front to your left, if you grabbed the top of the axis and moved it back (to horizontal) with the wheel position staying still then this is castor, then imagine, if you turned the wheel to the right 90 degrees then the wheel will lay flat, this is obviously an extreme example but best explained. SO, the more castor the more the wheel will increase negative camber the more you turn the wheel. BUT too much castor and the car will want to wander as it has less tendency to want to point straight ahead. :End Extract 46n2 :burnout:

SOLD :burnout:

I'm with Suncorp and I pay about 1300. Rating 1 (yes under 25) - but my car isn't worth anything near what a 34 GTT is worth... I think you'll find that the people getting quotes for approx $1000 drive vintage cars (like myself) :lol: 46n2 EDIT : changed 35 GTT to 34 GTT - don't blame me - I was drunk

Dave, Will the limiter go easily into a 32 GTT? How much do you want for it? R324DRIFT : I think chiptorque can reprogram 32 ECU's

Does the RSM cancel the speed limiter? 46n2 :burnout:

Having not done thsi before...My new pads wouldn't fit between the discs and the pistons...My assumption is that I need to bleed? the brakes to release pressure from the pistons to fit the new pads in... Any help would be happily accepted Thanks, 46n2

OK People ... Doesn't appear to be a rip as it's actually on Top Secret's site!!!! nor a photo-chop!!! http://www.topsecretjpn.com Do some homework before slandering!!! Engine is more that likely the 3.5L V6. Nissan are apparently pitching more to the American market The GTR is said to be retaining the stovetops (source - speed magazine) and will look more like the Concept car... I haven't seen the veilside 35 yet, but I'll check it out 46n2 :alien:

Don't get the chance to listen to tunes too often anymore, but when I do its Razed In Black, Covenant, NIN, Funker Vogt, and other industrial assortments with a little metal thrown in the mix - Static-X, PM5K, Tool & Stuff 46n2

I agree it's no 32 or 34 :bahaha: - kidding, but it's a whole world above some of the earlier pics of the V35 coupe that i'd seen. Keep in mind - this isn't (correct me if i'm wrong) the GTR 46n2

How sexy is this

Glad to hear I'm not alone hooray for trendsetting 46n2

People, I don't know if I'm alone here, but it's not always easy to find out what's going on during the week & weekends with the club & events... I've been to the QLD Events page and changed the filter to show all events from the beginning, and was disappointed to find only 11 Threads. I think that we need to use the events calendar more on the forums. The way it seems to work ATM is everyone puts their posts up/starts new threads, and there's masses of speculation about when and where, and you've got to read through pages and pages of changes to plans before you know when and where an event is going to be held. Maybe once events are planned and finalised, the event can be added to the calendar/events page, this way we will all have one point of reference to find out what's happenning? I'd love to start cruising out and meeting other members, and I think that this'll help me and others out there figure out what's going on and where with a lot less reading. Does anyone agree, or am I all alone in my own little world? Feedback? - (*be gentle*) Michael

adam, Check your email Michael