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R33-Kid

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Everything posted by R33-Kid

  1. hey guys chasing a bride LR rail to suit a R33 GTS for a bride gias seat. or a equivalent rail that wil suit, does not have to be a bride. cheers Cooper
  2. well going by that then im better off going 9 +22 all round so they sit +14 more fronts and +12 on the backs making it sit flush being Te37s as well theyll have the concave look and not look so crap agree?
  3. hey guys scratchin my head on whether to grab a set of wheels. i want just a clean fitment basically flush with the stock guards with just a roll and lowered. fronts are 8.5 +30 i know these will sit nice and flush rears are 9.5 +40 now are these going to sit in to far that they will look complete odd and different when compared to the front or are we talking 5mm will make a match. or is 9.5 +30 what i really want to match the front? because i could live with 5mm but probably not 10. basically there a good buy and been searching for a while cheers coops
  4. Got a HKS ssqv for sale Item is used but in working conditon. does not come with adaptor. Asking $150 plus postage Located in Perth Cheers Coop
  5. Got a haltech platinum interceptor for sale The interceptor is a piggy back computer used in parrallel to the standard computer. check haltechs website for compatibility. Was removed from a 96 stagea with basics mods in perfect running condition. Car is being retern to stock. Best contact is through PM Located in Perth willing to post interstate at buyers expense. Asking $750 ono + postage Cooper
  6. hey guys im replacing my motor in my 96 r33 gts that has died while also fixing the front end of a damaged 97 series one stagea. ive found a series one stagea front cut with all the stuff i need and a rb25det, the guy told me that there is a differnece between the r33 rb25 and stagea rb25 as im going to use that block and head. i was wondering what it is that is different as he could not tell me and i have not seen the front cut or stagea motor yet. is it easily changed/fixed. cheers guys coops
  7. hey guys chasing a rb25 motor want a stock one thats running as mine has blown so i can just attach the manifolds and drop it back in or a built one depending on how much i can strech the budget let me know on your price for a stagea a front cut would be perfect as i need drivers side quarter panal, bonnet, headlights, front bar and front cross bar that the headlights attach to. its for a 1997 silver stagea send us a pm on what you have and cost and what you think shipping would be to 6163 WA thanks alot coops
  8. yeah totally understand will get my tuner to have a listen and il defenitly look into the oil testing as you sed alot easeir than pulling the motor out. if i need the details il be in contact with you. fingers crossed it may be something stupid. thanks daniel
  9. thanks alot Daniel yeah il giv it another listen tommoro but that makes sense to me must be it, now to rb30 or not if it is the case. it doesn come as a huge shock as when i did my motor i painted my rocker covers and due to my poor painting abilities i failed and ended up gettin them powder coated. turns out that in the rb25 rocker covers it ni on impossible to get all of the crap out of them and it was to late when i changed them adn flushed a couple of hundereds of dollars of oil and oil filters through it. my tuner told me this at a later stage as he didn see the car when it came in for the tune and hes seen it happen before. il drop some oil out tommorro and see if i can see the swirly crap on top as that should give a big hint away. oh well guess another one of lifes lessons. and for all you other guys DONT POWDERCOAT YOUR RB25 ROCKER COVERS often laeds to motor death. thanks again coops
  10. ohh cok anyway to tell other than the obvious?? could it still be a big end if the knocking sound is not consistant when it comes about whislt driving. if it is a big end could you just giv us a quick idea how its happening, explain the reason for the noise whislt cruzing. is its becasue it has a load on it when accelrating or deaccelrating, where as cruzing or blimping the throttle its got no load on it and moving about or simply has just crapped it self. yeh il talk to my tuner tommorro to see what they say and maybe let them have a listen.
  11. hey guys my car is a R33 GTS with a highflow, nismo 555cc, splitfire coils, z32, hks evc, apexi power fc and all the other usual bits ive had my tune in the car for about 2 weeks know and everything has been running smooth with no excesive knock (knock levels were below 20). now the other day i started my car in the morning and noticed a bit of white smoke from the exhaust when i reved the engine slightly, not huge amounts just a bit. i then noticed a increase in the knock on my hand controller was going up to 40-50 whilst driven carefully, i thought i had a serious problem on my hands (not to say i still dont). now i havnt noticed anymore white smoke from the exhuast at anytime. driving today carefully i noticed the noise that is causing the knock. when cruzing along in any gear usually between 2000 and 3000 revs i can here a clangy tapping noise. i noticed this was when the knock sensor was going of its head. this is when im just maintaing speed if i take my foot of the throttle it goes away, if i accelrate it goes away, even flat foot it goes away knock drops back to normal levels but comes straight back when cruzing. me and my old man have ive been under the hood to see if anything was loose and hitting anything and couldn find anything, done the screw driver test listening cant seem to find the source (not noticable on injectors, head, block, turbo, rocker covers). we can get the noise to occur when we blimp the throttle but if we rise the revs slowly it doesnt occur. any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated just ask if i havnt explained anything clearly. cheers coop
  12. have the stock BOV (blocked) as well on 11psi with a pod and get a small flutter no major vl doseing tho dont mind the sound better than high pitched fart noises. also how you use your right foot
  13. ahh i see what you mean just saw a pic on there site and it has the paddle arm that has the grub screws so this is what i need for the tbs new problem apart from not having the paddle the bracket that is around the spline with the grub screws the four alan key bolts a few are striped and cant remove it so cant get the spline of. do u think its worth tryin to modify the stock sensor or bit to risky i just dont wanna break it cheers
  14. no i dont have anything else to go with it. if i had the arm that grub screwed onto the spindle to work the tps the sensor would still hit the spindle and i wouldn be able to bolt it up. if thats what you mean. thats why i thought it inserted into the tps by removing the paddle system. cheers
  15. hey guys i bought a second hand greddy plenum that came with a hypertune throttle body. now i cant get the stock rb25 throttle postion sensor to fit the hypertune throttle body. the throttle body has a spline that come out the end of it where as the throttle postion sensor a paddle system with a arm. i tried removing this to see if there was a spline behind it to which the hypertune would fit into but couldnt get it off as its stuck on there blody hard and i didnt want to break it. the guy i bought it off used a stock rb25 sensor and hasn gotten back to me on how it fitted but he said it did. any help would be appreciated
  16. hey im chasing the plastic drivers side door insert witht the window switchs how much and will you send
  17. Hey just looking for a set of HKS cams for a series II rb25 motor the 256 inlet and 264 exhaust and a greddy oil cooler send us a pm cheers
  18. yeah saw the flying performance ones and they appeared abit on the dodge side so wasn to keen on them. where to find them, Just Jap and Viva Garage is all i have found so far but ebay as well. ebay is always your friend haha i was thinking of cutting the old mirror of the base then working on that part by bit of filler and sanding and then painting it black. what do you guys reckon work a treat or not?? cheers coops
  19. was looking at gettin some new mirrors for my car similar to the craft square and c west ones. but i cant really justify spending 600+ on a set of mirrors as i can imagine them gettin knocked off or broken easily. so was looking at some cheaper sets but noticed they didn come with the triangle base plate to attach to the door in the orginal postion. this is on a r33 gts by the way as the electric mirrors when removed leave a ugly space behind. my question is does any body know where i can get some cheaper mirrors with the base plates or get some base plates and fit the mirrors my self or any other option?? cheers guys coops
  20. hey mate hope me buying your old injectors helps you out a bit i understand why you said you need the money now good luck with the rest of the build and hope you get your results coops
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