wrxhoon

Thats very common on rb26's when a turbo lets go , i have seen heaps with ceramic dust through them , i must say i havent seen it in an rb25 . He said he has the cil head off , so he can see the condition of the bore , a borescope is put in through the sparkie hole to inspect the bore .

Adam , Take the radiator out , the first thing yopu will do . Dont forget to use a sheet of plywood or chipboard to protect the air cond condenser . Dont bother taking out alternator , unbolt the air cond compressor and secure it on the rail do the same with the power steer pump that way you dont have oil spilled everywhere . Undo the engine mount nuts ( from under the car ) undo the tranny bolts and the starter , then split the box using a huge screwdriver and or tyre lever . take the front pipe off but leave the turbo and dump on . Mount you chain on the mounting hooks at the front and rear of the cil head . The bonnet should be removed before you start , a bit in a hurry , if i forgot anything when you are about to remove it p.m. if you like or ring me and i'll try to help you . No you dont have to remove the harmonic balancer , the engine builder can do it with a rattle gun easy . P.m if you want my phone number . You will be fine mate , you can do it .

Surely you dont expect turbos , plenum and all the bolt ons for $12.5 k Andrew . You just get the long engine with waterpump as you see in the pic but dont forget its all brand new ! Yes a rebuilt engine can be almost as good as new but most times its not , it depends on who does the machining and who puts it together . There is no way you can built a 100 hp engine for $ 12.5 , you just cant buy the parts for that ,never nind put it together as well ..

I hope you have a tranny jack , they are very heavy ! You can do it in 4 hours easy even if you never done a gtr before as long as you have done plenty others . A couple of tips , lower the subframe say 10-20 mm so the whole engine box asssembly tilts to the rear , then its easy to get to the top bolts , the top starter bolt can be a bitch , its best to undo with a bendy spanner ( C shape ) . Block the attessa pipe so you dont loose any fluid and dont forget to bleed it when you put it back in . When its all undone you may have to rotate the box to fit through the tunnel to get it down .

No its +30 as well and they will fit the 32 no problem . When you buy aftermarket rims though even if the offset is right , they may or not clear the brakes you have to try them on . But you have 8" rims ( front ) with +38 offset that means when you put them on the 32 R you will narrow the track by 8 mm on each side ( 16 mm all up ) and widen the rear track by 7mm on each side (14 mm total ). Would you want to do that ? I wouldnt , i would want to keep both the same and preferably widen both by a small margin . If you use stock 33 or 34 rims you widen the track by 25 mm ( 12.5 on each side ).

Hi octane have a set of r34 gtr rims +tyres for sale , if i remember right $2850

These can be mounted anyway you want as well , no they are not deep cycle and no the addessys are not deep cycle either . They are both a drycell sealed battery , i have broken up an oddessy battery and i know what they are . I wasn't vague at all they are same construction as an oddessy and they are made in China , they dont come with the steel jacket that most oddessys come in australia with either . In the usa you can get them with a steel case or without and i dont know where the oddessys are made now, they use to be made in the usa . No they are not like the supercharge batteries at all, supercharge are a wet cell low maintenance battery not drycell sealed . If you want a deep cycle battery thats what you should be buying but dont forget they are not suitable for constant charging , so you should realy have 2 batteries if you have a huge sound system and a switch so you dont charge your deep cycle constantly . The drycell batteries will last longer than normal wet cell ( usualy double the life ) and they crank the car even when they are almost flat but they dont have greater storage capacity that a similar wet cell battery, just greater cranking power . They are ideal to install in the boot as they dont emit dangerous gasses .

I have had these on my jetskis ( smaller batteries ) for 21/2years now and they are still good , normal lead acid would only last 2 years . I dont bother charging them in winter and they kickstart them after siting there for 6 months . I have to add that 2 strome engines are much easier to kick because of the low compression .

No one said they are deep cycle , you are right they are NOT deep cycle but the oddessy batteries atr not deep either .

If your turbos have been rebuilt they would be steel wheeled , you dont have to smash them to see if they are steelies , if you take them out you can tell . Maybe someone just changed the actuators though .

It sounds like you have a miss not lag , it could be anything from spark plugs, coils or any electrical problem if only at low rpm, its hard to say when you cant describe exacly what it does . Take it to the dealer and let them sorted out .

You are very funny dude , if you didnt start with this crack business , i wouldnt even bother commenting on your reply .

I would add to that , maybe he shouldnt flame anyone , especialy when they know what they are talking about .

I'm quoting your post number 7 i think this is what you said "what crack are you smoking? the r34 standard turbos are steel wheeled. this is WELL doccumented " Did you not say that ?

Undo the big bolt in the centre ( 32 mm head ) several turns but dont take out . Then use you puller on the 2x6mm threaded holes , you will need 2x6mm treaded bolts, once the pulley comes loose remove the big bolt and the pulley will come off . If you dont have a puller buy one from supercheap or any auto parts shop , there are cheap Chinese ones ( about $20 ) .

How are you going to check when still in the car ? .

Is it stock ? What do you mean by " i get a bit of lag " ? Slow to respond or missing ? Stock rexes are not laggy at all .

Again , if you dont believe it then come to my place , i have a set of turbos still here the rear one with a busted wheel . I have all 6 pistons still , the rear 3 totaly stuffed from the ceramic dust . I think some dust comes back in every engine that has a ceramic turbo wheel let go , some more than others . Sometimes very little so you still have good compression but if you pull the engine apart i'm sure you will find some score marks in it , as i found out when i had an angine rebuilt after a busted ringland and found out some scoremarks on the 3 rear cilinders . At the time that car had N1 turbos but i found out it had spat a rear turbo sometime before that .

You can believe what you like , how does zoom/hpi know the turbos are the same as N1's ? Did they have them off the car ? Very hard to even see them on the car .

Thats your problem , when you changed the timming belt the base timming has changed , the cas wasn't put back in the same spot . Get it checked with a timing light and put back to specs 15 degrees @650rpm for an rb25det . You will find the mines ecu woulb be tuned for 100 ron but if it wasn't pinging before it should still be ok . Dont drive it like that anymore you are lucky you havent busted a ringland ! Standard fuel in japan is 90ron , premium 100 ron and they have 105 ron pump fuel as well but you dont see it at petrol stations much .

double post

As for sucking the ceramic dust back in the engine , i dont need any convincing , i have seen plenty , actualy i have a set of pistons to prove it . I put the pics on the forum a long time ago , the 3 rears are totaly stuffed , the bore in that engine had deep scores , even the cilinder head had heaps of ceramic imbedded in it . In my opinion when a turbo lets go some dust is sucked back in but in some engines is very little so you still have good compression and you dont think its gone in . It could have someting to do with the speed the turbine is doing at the time the wheel snaps . I have pulled an engine out that had the rear turbo let go a year before ,They installed N1 turbos , it was running fine for a year ( so they said ) , then a ringland busted on number 6 , probably leaned out . When i pulled it appart i found very slight score marks on the pistons , bore and top of cil head on the 3 rear cilinders .

By the way engine doesnt suck the wheel in , it sucks the ceramic dust , you will find the wheel in the cat , minus the blades .

Ben , I dont know if you can match the steering rack boots with aftermarket ( i'm fairly sure you would be able to ) . As for the cv boots , go to any auto shop with a sample boot and they will match it , failing that you can use the universal ones ( you cut to suit ) , there is 4, 2 on each driveshaft . You dont need to pull the shafts off the car to change but you have to release them so you can fit the new boots on . If you never done it before its best to leave it to a workshop as it is a bit of work on the gtr and i dont know your mechanical knowledge . Why do you say you have to replace them ?Are they cracked ? Are they split ? If they are split you have to do them asap otherwise you get water in the cv's and then you have to replace them as well . The steering rack are not as critical but you should still replace them if they are split .