Sparkys

Car: Early 1990's Suzuki Vitara Convertible (with soft top in good condition). Odomoter: 220,xxxkm Colour: Metallic blue Wheels: Standard wheels Condition: Good (see comments) Price: $3500 ono Location: Milang, South Australia Contact: PM or 0434924001 Comments: I have not had this Suziki very long, but my wife is expecting our first child and I've just bought a Subaru Outback for her, plus I have a work ute and my Skyline so I don't need this car. I've just been using it to go camping, fishing, general run about etc. It drives well but runs rich. I suppose I should get around to tuning it up but haven't bothered yet. It has had a spray job in it's life sometime and there's a couple of cracks/dents in the paint plus some rust around the windscreen on the drivers side. The interior is pretty good for it's age, has some tears in the door skins. The convertible top is in very good condition with only one clip missing. It has a brand new rear muffler because the old one had a hole in it. The front left indicator doesn't work nor does the temperature guage. I'm pretty open on the price, these cars seem to hold ridiculous value for their age (check out the examples on carsales.com with over 300,000km and a $5,000 asking price, bit steep if you ask me!) but I've priced this one pretty fairly I think. I think that's all, please PM or write a question here if you want to know something. I'm on here every couple of days or so. Pictures: Added just now....sorry the car's dirty! **Mods, I could not find how to edit my previous for sale thread so I made this one with pictures. Please advise if you would like anything different.

Car: Early 1990's Suzuki Vitara Convertible (with soft top in good condition). Odomoter: 220,xxxkm Colour: Metallic blue Wheels: Standard wheels Condition: Good (see comments) Price: $3500 ono Location: Milang, South Australia Contact: PM or 0434924001 Comments: I have not had this Suziki very long, but my wife is expecting our first child and I've just bought a Subaru Outback for her, plus I have a work ute and my Skyline so I don't need this car. I've just been using it to go camping, fishing, general run about etc. It drives well but runs rich. I suppose I should get around to tuning it up but haven't bothered yet. It has had a spray job in it's life sometime and there's a couple of cracks/dents in the paint plus some rust around the windscreen on the drivers side. The interior is pretty good for it's age, has some tears in the door skins. The convertible top is in very good condition with only one clip missing. It has a brand new rear muffler because the old one had a hole in it. The front left indicator doesn't work nor does the temperature guage. I'm pretty open on the price, these cars seem to hold ridiculous value for their age (check out the examples on carsales.com with over 300,000km and a $5,000 asking price, bit steep if you ask me!) but I've priced this one pretty fairly I think. I think that's all, please PM or write a question here if you want to know something. I'm on here every couple of days or so. Pictures: Tomorrow or the day after....when I figure out how to get the things off my phone or get time to pull out the digital camera.

I bought the brakes, and just wanted to say that Troy's an honest seller. After looking at the car, it would have been easy for someone dodgy to to dodge it up and sell it with the rust covered but he's chosen to sell the parts and be legit about it all. I'd trust this bloke y'all!

Thanks, I spelt it wrong in my search They don't have any stickers for the GT-C, so I'll have to get some made. Thanks anyway. btw, I found where I can get the centres remachined and polished easily.

Hi Brandon, I just googled acces (sic?) autosport and motorsport and couldn't find the company you are talking about. Could you please point me in the right direction? Thank you!

I've bought some Volk GT-C's which were unfortunately scratched in transit. I'm getting the centre pieces acid dipped, powder coated in the same silver then clear coated to fix them. Two questions though, 1. Where can I get the centre bits remachined out like original? 2. Where can I get new VOLK RACING stickers for them (same as original)? Thanks all, Sparky

Thank you

Yes I could do that, and I trust Trent and his knowledge. However, since I've built 99% of my car myself I like knowing for myself exactly what everything does so I can optimize the performance and efficiency of each part on it. If you or Trent are willing to take the time to explain to me exactly how and what the second nipple does I'd really appreciate it. If not, that's fine, I'll try and look up as much information as I can on it. Thanks if you can guys, but cool if you can't.

Ok, so then all I need to do is to have the second nipple plumbed in to a pressurised line at some point after the turbine but before the plenum. I can understand that and that fits in with all of my reading up on it. To be honest though, I struggle with the term "boost controller" being applied to a blow off valve, I suppose loosely the valve can 'control boost' by lifting the valve at a specific pressure, but it would only so this when off the throttle, otherwise the pressure from the top of the valve would just keep it closed. Thanks for your help, I'm only semi-confused now

Thank you for your replies, however I'm not quite sure we're on the same page. I think what you're trying to describe is the basic function of a recirculation valve, to take the excess pressure away from the plenum/motor when the throttle is released, which I understand. What I assumed from your first post was that the recirculation valve could be used as a boost controller (to increase or decrease boost) basically, and this concept I struggled with, but now I see that's not what you were suggesting. I understand that by modifying the spring tension I can decrease the boost slightly (as lower spring tension would allow boost pressure to return to the inlet tract earlier), but I see no way of increasing boost using a recirculation valve. I think we're on the same wavelength here now. But unless I've misunderstood you, that still leaves my original question, what is the second nipple for? The two diagrams below are CAD drawings of a Greddy Type S which I lifted from another forum. The second picture suggests that the second nipple is used as a 'helper' to the springs and hence would need to be plumbed in to a pressurized line from the compressor. Does this sound right?

How so? A wastegate essentially bleeds off exhaust air to ensure constant turbine wheel speed which maintains a constant boost pressure. Are you saying that the Greddy BOV can somehow bleed off pressurised inlet air to only allow a certain amount of boost pressure into the plenum/motor etc? If so, why do normal recirculation valves/BOV's not have the second nipple? Every other one I've seen just has a single nipple to receive pressurised air from the plenum or some such source. And if it is used for this, then shouldn't it be be blocked off normally? Otherwise it's just acting as an undesired boost leak. Thank you, Sam

My RB25 has a Greddy plumb back BOV, with the normal inlet, outlet and line connection. However, it also has a second smaller line connection (see picture below, bottom left of the picture) which after reading around everyone suggests to leave it open. My question is, if it can just be left open, what is the connection actually for?

What do you mean by a 'texture' on the bonnet? Was it crazing? Small cracks? Dull and chalky? Each one could mean a different thing. btw, don't wax it after one day only as per the advice in the post above, acrylic paint that hasn't been cured in a booth can take up to six weeks (less in this weather though) to let all of the solvent properly disperse, and waxing too early will trap the solvents in the paint and turn it soft and slightly dull.

Thanks for your input too Russman!

Cheers for your help. I'll find out in a couple of weeks when they arrive if I need to run a spacer or not, but I couldn't say no to the rims. Silver GT-C's on a grey 32.....mmmmmm tasty

Heh! I can pretend I can hear the roar of the engine!! In about five, maybe ten years I shall be roaming the streets....in the meantime, fear the shell!

Major LOL at myself with my post coming after R-R-Rx7's comment!!

Methinks I am a prime candidate for this obsession I haven't even driven my skyline ONCE and I've owned it for a year and a half! In that time I've painted it......five times (myself) because each time I wasn't happy with the shade/colour/tone etc. So each time I stripped her back down and redid the job! I'm settled on the colour now....almost......I think?! Would I do this for another car? No. I do it for my car because to me the R32 is the perfect picture of what Japanese cars should be. It's only a GTS-T, not even a GTR but it brings a smile to my face every time I sit in the empty shell that it still is. I'll drive it oneday.....I hope

Hi Nisskid, I found the rims I wanted and bought them. I may have to run a spacer on the front though to get the look I want. I got 18x9 +38 with a 235/40 for the rears, and 17x8 +38 with a 225/45 for the fronts. From what I've read these should be ok.

see PM

Possibly......but I have a noob question, would these fit behind Volk GT-C's in 17 x 8 +38 offset on an R32? I'm guessing not... but if they do, is there an off the shelf adaptor I could buy to fit the calipers to the R32 hubs?

Where are you located old chap?

Yep, thanks guys. So that means I just need to upgrade the front brakes on the 32 to 310 x 30mm rotors, cheers. btw, it seems weird that the R32 has a bigger disk on the rear than on the front!

Ok I think people have been misunderstanding the part I need! When I say Radio controls I mean the AM/FM changer up on the dash, and the light controls as in the main controls. I'm after the cluster around the speedo/tacho etc, NOT the centre console. Andrew you have PM

Back to the top coz people have been mucking me around