lotsalag

Yeah, too wild for ur application i think! Go something smaller, something to at least avoid head machining for clearances. Then advance up that inlet cam alot maybe to the max, and enjoy possibly 500rpm better response, ive seen it on a built gtr with -10s. Generally the larger the engine the more tame an equivalent cam will be to my knowledge, ie a big rb25 cam will be even bigger and lumpier for an rb20, it comes down to cc's per cylinder basically. rb26 and rb27 tho, not sure ur gonna get too much difference, head work would probably influence cam performance more than an extra 100cc. redline in both ur rb27 will be similar to the 26 i'd assume. if it was an rb26 vs rb30 hybrid question, its a tough choice for cams, u need a decent size to breath with extra cubes, but cos it wont rev hard without big dollars, the cams might be in vain cos the profile and duration is more for top end! Sorry bout the rant, tried to keep it simple. just my 2c.

I've noticed that new hks actuators often seem to be a bit weak, making it a soft coming onto boost. the supplied one with my gt-rs sucked at anything over 1 bar, changed actuator one week later. if u wanna run decent boost ie 15+ psi maybe get stiffer/higher rated ones. 1 bar on gt-ss's is barely getting out of bed

Just an idea, maybe sell it and buy a normal box. no trackdays or clutchless shifts? do u really need dogs? i imagine that dogbox is worth a bit of coin afterall.

+1 for alternator on the way out i know mine is on the way out right now, doesnt kick in unless u give it a rev over 2.5k or so on start up, my steering does exactly as u describe too! check charge rate

I pulled my r32 diff apart to shim it and found it had 2 1.10mm shims standard! Already had 2 1.2mm shims to put in it instead of the rumored 2 0.80mm shims, oh well, put in 2 1.10s and a 1.2 total 3.4mm, way too tight! lol. Pulled it back out and put in a 1.49 and 1.2 total 2.51 couldn't really feel it. Then tried a 1.35 and 1.49 total 2.84 not bad, still slightly lacking lock. Then tried 0.75 0.95 and 1.49 total 3.19 too tight again! It is bloody touchy and hard to get spot on! Seems to be either locked or stock, their might be a 0.3mm window that you can fiddle with to get the desired results. I've seen another diff with 0.75 and 1.35 in it when pulled apart!? Not sure if after all they are 0.80mm both sides all the time, other people measured their old shims once their out?