lotsalag

+1 for leave them sure people will tell u u can make more power etc without coolant running through everything, but if bits r cold on the intake ur car will have bad fuel atomisation etc and might drive like a pig till warm. remember carby cars often run a heat riser tube off the exhaust manifold to the intake for this reason. reminded me of the "mod" where u bypass the throttle body coolant hoses etc and people feel a gain in response and power etc! lol kinda odd considering the whole inlet manifold has coolant running through it!

Turbo will always glow red after some dyno time dont worry. No harm in triple checking timing on the cam belt, was the keyway on the crankshaft ok? if its slightly moved and damaged the cutout in the crank it can give u false timing readings when checked with a timing light. When u check the mark on the crank pulley to the timing cover, the timing may show 15btdc but in fact it may be totally different! If possible maybe try changing CAS, as although it may seem fine, it might be getting noise interference or similar, or may just be on the way out. As a result iginition timing may be jumping around everywhere up the top, causing the pinging at conservative timing. Good luck mate!

^^ i agree its far more entertaining to imagine someone actually fitted this!

i think we're all confused! hahaha im totally out of ideas, its safe to say it could be anything at all. stock bov cant go atmo easily, will stall and run like a bag and will be loud as f__k! tried it once for laughs. look at all ur piping carefully, ive seen plenty of after market ones hidden in the inner guard if u want to, go to a friendly workshop that know skylines and just take one of the guys for a quick spin. he'll tell u straight away what it is. had a guy once who'd just bought a stagea and was tripping out/concernbed about a weird whistling/sucking noise, was just his hks pod! LOL

lmao im curious tho, didnt this damn thing make weird noises all the time?! not just on decel obviously, must have sounded like a kettle boiling/whistling or similar! wahahaha

sorry mate, dont know how i missed the pfc part! LOL my bad :S

i read somewhere years ago it can be difficult to set mixtures at idle with big cams. however, ur cams arent too aggressive, it may need further checking with the afr's u mentioned. if its a stock computer ur kidding urself expecting it to run like this rb26 bottom end? changed stroke/cc etc? this will also not help the poor old stock ecu if thats whats still running(trying to run) it.

Did u touch the blow off valve at all? change where the vac/boost line came from? Sounds like u have a boost leak somewhere, if the bov was ok before the cooler install it wont be that. check over every join etc carefully, hopefully not a big headache especially if it was a new kit, u can assume hoses and cooler core have no holes. The cooler itself will have no impact on lag as u mention, dont point ur finger at that either Hope that helps somewhat

huge can be good sometimes, it can allow an ecu with sequential injection to have more an impact on performance due to injection timing. if u imagine an injector running at 95% it'll be open for way longer than one at say 50% hence the greater difference injection timing will make you'd be surprised how smooth a lumpy cammed car can idle with sequential

I'd get it to a gtr experienced workshop asap. something is very wrong. if they're stock turbos im surprised they're in one piece, if not stock and it has no other mods be very worried too! fingers crossed its just a busted actuator hose, even so i'd be surprised if ur turbos or engine for that matter aren't damaged.

it wont be the boot at all either a pivot issue(often break), or clutch failure(pressure plate issue) of some sort, or bad adjustment caused by master of slave failure maybe try bleeding the fluid for starters, first at the nipple on the master, then if still shit, bleed at the slave

hmmm, interesting setup on ur r34 with the switch maddowse ive driven plenty of r34s and never had them hooked up like that, not any skyline for that matter, evos and rx7s + various others have this. urs may have been hooked up that way aftermarket(?) for some odd unknown reason

hope its not redline heavyweight think it might be reco time btw

on n/a back pressure can help on turbo its ur enemy

hmmm, there might be an hks kit specifically for v35. saw a v35 getting fitted with a blower off a 350z, wasnt a straight swap tho(be warned) it didnt really seem worth it honestly, sure it was punchy but was a bit lacking up top, the guy with the 350z ended up putting a single 3037s kit on, big underbonnet temp issues with that, so still not a good solution. lol those twin low mount turbo kits kits r kinda sweet, no exhaust crossover pipe and temp issues like the hks kit. but turboing it is a whole other thread. remember those v35's r high compression like 11+:1 from memory, dont push it too hard if its stock. wont take masses of timing or boost. might have to settle for 230rwkw or so if u go supercharged.

power sounds about right to me as well, raise the boost and you'll see good gains. u cant really directly compare different models of gtr, they changed a bit over the years. proper exhaust, boost up and tune should see 200+, if not more like 220 on a touch under 1 bar. had one make 225awkw with the same setup the other day those air filters are unlikely to be helping either

its nothing to do with starting the car, not on r34s either

rb boxes r often notchy when cold, just take it easy. lightweight might help a bit no experience with it. heavyweight is rubbish for the gearbox, i dumped the oil after a week! maybe try motul fflsd 75/90+nulon additive i've used it many times on customers cars and my own see how ya go, if its synchros stuffed, nothing can bandaid that

i'd be curious to know too, probably something to do with idle control as mentioned........... it is however also handy to use for full throttle upshift ignition cut

odd problem to me sounds it like a brake booster issue, maybe a leak in the diaphragm, enough of a seal for a quick stop. but the longer stop is long enough for it to leak out all the vacuum and be ineffective. kinda like if u try to brake with the engine turned off, no vacuum assist and fkn heavy pedal! hope that might help ya

u have a miss on one or more cylinders, u need to work out which one(s) pull the coilpack cover off, sounds like u left it off anyway(sweet) with the engine running, unplug each coilpack one at a time if it sounds the same when u unplug no.1 then the problem isnt on no.1, plug it back in, then onto no.2 and so on and so forth if u manage to isolate the problem to one cylinder, hopefully not more, swap the coil with another one thats working from another cylinder and see if the miss is know on the cylinder u swapped it with. if u swap a good coil onto the missfiring cylinder and its still missfiring, its likely to be stuffed plugs, maybe gap too big or worn, or bad compression dont go buying coilpacks etc till ur 100% what the problem is, yes its likely to be coilpacks, but be sure, change the plugs while ur there and gap em to 0.8 bkr6e

$550 for boost t and dyno?! check basics, could be fuel pump too, hope the previous guys at least checked afrs 33gtst always freak out when u boost em up with light mods on stock computer take it someone who knows these things, diagnosis on a dyno shouldnt take long

an 11 with 190awkw!! hahahahahaa we had an evo 5 do an 11.9 with 240awkw on full street tyres, and he can drive, awesome 60ft etc dont wanna go off on a tangeant thats all i got to say

whats been done to the car mod wise? id just get a 100cell 3inch cat, zero drop in power on my car to when it had 3-inch decat at 225rwkw

Speak to someone in the know for sure. But decide what ur hoping to rev it to, powerband, power goals etc and what else will be done throughout the motor before deciding on cams tho. i found the guys at camtech to be helpful http://www.camtechcams.com.au/ cant remember his name, but one guy there seems to know his rb's pretty damn well, see what he has to say. good luck