DC Drift
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Posts posted by DC Drift
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SECUR1TY's install is an 044 and they dont like being in a tank at all.. the 044 has a filter built into the bottom of it and they are designed bo be used in an upright position unlike its 044 external brother..
so if you are using in 044 in your tank no wonder it died...
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hey guys im also lookin at caging my 4 door,
mainly for drift however it does see the street sometimes pretty keen on some pics/ ideas
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had mine for 2 years no problems...
what happened to yours???
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Item: rb 25 turbo zero shaft play of a low k's of a series 2 $350
hks 264's step 2 cams suit sr20 (valve springs reccomended) $450
tomie adjustable cam gears suit sr20 $150
Location: Perth (will post a buyers expense)
Comments:
also have silver faced e boost 2 $ 500
greddy profec b 2 $300 ??
walbro intank pump $100
All ONO$$$
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dude im not sayin at all thats its a good idea to run a gate of one cylinder by any means.. all im sayin is that of you had to do it, it doesnt make much difference..
f1 are you serious how can you compare any sort of mod to a stock manifold to the likes of what formula 1 are doin.. they have copious amounts of money and wouldnt even think about stock items..
all i was tryin to say is that china = fail.. a good properly welded stock mani will do a better job and flow much better thasn most aftermarket..yes we would make evrythin flow as much as you can but iven if you dnt its not like it costs the world.
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040
much better option i know of many walbro's that have run out of lets even on mild rb 20 set ups
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should have put some tread on your tires while you were there hahaha
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If you don't mind butchering your turbo exhaust housing, although I assume you'll weld up the internal wastegate anyway, you can have the ext wastegate pipe come off the housing just behind the flange. You can improve things if you have it exiting in the same general direction so the exhaust gas doesn't have to change direction too much giving better flow. Whatever you do make sure you have the wastegate bleeding exhaust gas after all the collectors have merged or your boost control will crap. Welding cast iron isn't a drama, but yeh you should take care with prep not to crack it.
no you can have the gate on one cylinder if you like doesnt matter as all its doin is gettign rid of extra pressure.. the pressure is the same everywere so it doesnt matter at all.. i have done it many different ways all workin extremly well. boost control all depends on the qaulity of your wastegate..
and as for butchering up your exhaust housing as you out it.. all you need to do is tack the flap so it doesnt more, can always grind it of later if you wish.
to be honest you could put the gate in the total oppesite direction to flow and i will garentee it will still flow much better than any aftermarket manifold other than 6 boost ect.
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from being an ex-holden mechanic id be more inclined to use the mitsu range of coils.
namely 6g72 gto twin turbo. there nice and compact and have bolt style terminals.
from memory they use a normal socket type lead plug to.
although the ultimate is series 4 rx7. there abit big though.
ive been running vn wasted spark coilpacks on my rb 20 for about a year now and has been running 18psi all day every day and loves it.. i wouldnt look past the holden coil packs if you wanna go one better though get some vs msd coils..
that is what i will be putting on my new rb25 series 2 using an rb20 ignitior
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would be better off making an adaptor between manifold and turbo that can have a pipe coming off it to utilise an ext gate.
nah your not then comes issues with lines dump pipes rubbing and cooler pipe not fitting..
makin your manifold external is very easy i have done dozens including the one on my 25. never ever crack even when glowing red the steampipe doesnt even change colour (still black)
if your not a very good welder i dnt reccomend tryin it yourself though hees one of the ones i made
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you can get a fitting to screw onto the bottom of an 044 (i know this is for an 040 install) so you dont have to bend the standard bracket. it also gives you less changes of surging. with that in place i measured up the pump and it sits around 2-3mm off the bottom of the tank which is perfect for fuel pick-up. it was like the 044 was made for the r32.
heres a pic of an install i did on r32woohoo's r32:
nice filter :S
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just had a RB25VCT/30 put in my 32gtst thought i might aswell post pics and point out that although i have heard of people using the RB25 inlet manifold we couldn t get it to fit under the (aftermarket)bonnet because the RB30 block sits around 40mm taller in the engine bay. So now my RB has a greddy manifold(RB20 throttle), which then necessitated moving the clutch master cylinder along the firewall closer to the brake booster. Also changed the gearbox to the 25 and changed the tailshaft. Trying now to get the RB20 ecu to run this setup with SAFCII(still considering ecu options), still alot of work to do however this should give an idea of how it fits in the 32 bay.
r33 clutch master is what i used.. much shorter than r32 item...
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Fear not as the only significant change to the wiring for a series 2 RB25 is the power feed for the injectors and there is no ignition coil relay near the ECU. The injector feed on the series 1 motors is a dedicated feed coming from the 8 pin plug near the P/S reservoir whilst the series 2 loom has a common feed for the coils and the injectors.
what wire is this guys??
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Dont forgot that in addition to the major wiring modifications I have mentioned in my guide, you still need to connect all the other ECU wires like start signal (pin 43), tacho (pin 7), fuel pump relay (pin 18) etc.
i dont know what pin is 1 lol
what colours are they im lost?? lol
R32 Pix Only
in Photography
Posted
a couple of pics of mine and my bros r32 sedans
enjoy!!